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Blue Plate Navigator: happy (hour) meals | cartesian geography

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PARADOX PALACE CAFE
No matter how I try, I can't quit the Paradox. The popular Southeast Belmont Street diner with its rotating decor commits offenses that should be unforgivable: Breakfast potatoes are often undercooked and food is too often served cold. Customers are kept waiting outside while empty booths taunt, and when they're finally seated the tables are unpleasantly wet from a hurried wiping.Several times I've sworn off the place, but this funky diner is a dream come true for a politically correct grazer on a budget, and I'm haunted by the siren song of the addictive cornmeal pancakes.Nothing on the menu is more than seven bucks, and you can easily get breakfast or lunch for under five. Biscuits with almond gravy are a country comfort, and there's tempeh a-plenty. Have it served with brown rice or potatoes, on a sandwich, or tossed with spices and sauce as an appetizer. For lunch Paradox has burgers, both meaty and meatless, and a vegetarian sloppy joe. Pasta, burritos and quesadillas are among the dinner offerings. Check out the Asian noodle medley and tempeh broccoli stir-fry. And look for me on Sunday mornings--I'll be the one drying my table with a napkin and ordering up a stack of corn cakes. (PW)

3439 SE BELMONT ST., 232-7508. 8 AM-9 PM THURSDAY-MONDAY,
9 AM-4 PM TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY.

PASTA VELOCE
Ideal lunch spots are in short supply downtown, so it's no wonder that Pasta Veloce, established a year and a half ago by the folks at Rustica, is going strong and growing a regular clientele.The pastas are simple and light, and the portions are honest.Every bowl of noodles--there are 13 choices in all--comes with fresh Parmesan and bruschetta (beg them to bring back the big slices!). Standouts include penne alla zucca, a vegetarian mix of butternut squash, spinach and tomatoes, and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, broccoli, tomatoes, gorganzola, walnuts and brown butter. Some of the meals cross the budget line for lunch (spaghetti with clam sauce for $7.25, portobello panini for $6.50) but make an attractively affordable dinner. The soup of the day hits the mark on occasion (look for the cream of mushroom), and the mista and spinach salads are super. But perhaps the best components of Veloce have nothing to do with the food. Hardwood floors, heavy crockery and silverware, white tablecloths and a well-stocked magazine rack make this a great lunch-hour getaway--and the staff is really cute, too. (CM)

1022 SW MORRISON ST., 916-4388. 11:30 AM-9 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11:30 AM-9:30 PM FRIDAY, NOON-9:30 PM SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.

PEARL BAKERY
Even in the gray of winter, Pearl Bakery seems a sunny place. Big windows, tall ceilings, tile floors and a great staff surely contribute. Ultimately, though, it's the heartening smell of loaves baking in gigantic ovens that dispels the cloud cover. A diverse selection of breads is always available to take away in Pearl's optimistically blue paper bags, but during lunch you can see the city's best bread in action in one of many excellent sandwiches. A recently revamped lunch menu greatly improved the turkey model, adding tarragon aioli and smoked Gouda, with a nice added touch of basil. Other favorites include the Black Forest ham with red pepper aioli, and roasted eggplant in a light marinara on crispy ciabatta. You'd expect the pastries to be as fine as the bread, and that is indeed the case. The chocolate chunk cookie with walnuts and a touch of orange, for example, is deliriously good, and the ginger snap is second to none, perfectly balanced between crispy and chewy. (MG)

102 NW 9TH AVE., 827-0910. 7 AM-6 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 8 AM-
2 PM SATURDAY.

PHILADELPHIA'S STEAKS AND HOAGIES
There's a street in the south part of Philadelphia that is home to two of the finest cheesesteak emporiums on earth. Pat's claims to have invented the cheesesteak; Geno's claims to be better and more popular. The cheesesteak wars are mostly friendly because both places respect the art of cheesesteaks enough to start with the right basics: a long chewy roll with its guts tugged out, thinly sliced steak sautéed with limp onions on a very greasy grill, a choice of Whiz or regular cheese and a wiseguy or two hanging around for color. Although Philadelphia's is low on mobsters, it's high on authentic cheesesteaks. If you get a hankering for hoagies, another Philly treat, this place does them right--layers of Italian cold cuts bathed in a herbed oil-and-vinegar dressing and served with brilliant house-prepared sweet peppers.And don't forget a Tastykake to finish up the meal. (CBB)

6410 SE MILWAUKIE AVE., 239-8544. 9 AM-10 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 9 AM-11 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY, 11 AM-7 PM SUNDAY.

PHO HUNG
About the only good thing that came out of the Vietnam War was the wholesale export of one of the world's cleanest, most subtle cuisines to the land of big burgers and cottage cheese.At all three Pho Hung outposts, diners get tremendous food and lightening-quick service at fast-food prices.Pho (pronounced fuh), a staple in the of northern part of Vietnam, is a soup made from simmering various cow parts with a rainbow of herbs and spices. At Pho Hung, you can choose from 19 different variations of the soup; chin nam ve don ($4.25), the version with thin slices of beef, is probably the most accessible to western palates. But there's much more here than beef broth. The goi cuon (salad rolls) come wrapped in moistened rice paper and marry perfectly with their peanutty sauce. Bun cha gio thit nuong, thin slices of grilled pork with fried egg rolls over vermicelli, is an excellent option as well. Texture and freshness are the hallmarks of Vietnamese food--most dishes are accompanied by heaps of fresh basil, coriander and sprouts. And Pho Hung offers the perfect ending to a Vietnamese feast: a cup of inky coffee laced with condensed milk. (NJ)

4717 SE POWELL BLVD., 775-3170. 7330 NE FREMONT ST., 284-8355. 13227 SW CANYON ROAD, BEAVERTON, 626-2888. 9 AM-9 PM DAILY.

PHO VAN
Rarely does a Vietnamese restaurant combine great food with excellent service and ambience, but Pho Van (fuh vaan) manages to do just that.Its extensive menu offers a wide range, from spring rolls to various beef, chicken and seafood dishes. The bun (vermicelli) dishes offer a delicious alternative to the standard rice entrees. The restaurant's namesake Pho boasts flavorful beef and chicken in a rich, tasty broth. One selection not to be missed is the jackfruit sinh to, a cool, sweet refreshing smoothie that provides a tropical touch to the menu. Che van, a special coconut, tapioca, ice and bean dessert, tops off the meal sweetly. Foods this colorful, light and sweet are made to be enjoyed with others. The spacious atmosphere lends itself well to couples and large groups; the many Vietnamese families who frequent the restaurant lend it a distinct community feel. (KP)

1919 SE 82ND AVE.,788-5244. 9 AM-9 PM DAILY.

THE PIED COW COFFEEHOUSE
While this fab de la fab coffee house is definitely the place to smoke cloves and giggle like a high schooler (you probably are a high schooler if you're hanging here), the Pied Cow is also a great place to grab a light, elegant meal. The Pied Cow is mostly known for its coffee drinks (be frivolous and get one of the many java-infused beverages listed under the "foofy" section of the menu), but it also offers a rather nice selection of plates for less than $10. The baked brie is served beautifully with hazelnuts and baguette rounds, and the curried lentil dip with tomatoes and pita wedges is the perfect summer meal.Dessert is excellent here--this is one of the few places in town that makes a cannoli that won't make mama mia cry.(CBB)

3244 SE BELMONT AVE., 230-4866. 4 PM-MIDNIGHT TUESDAY-THURSDAY, 4 PM-1 AM FRIDAY, 10 AM-1 AM SATURDAY, 10 AM-MIDNIGHT SUNDAY.
CLOSED MONDAY.

PIZZICATO
The idea of a chain of pizza joints doesn't exactly titillate the taste buds, but somehow this locally grown group of nine locations retains the personality and authenticity that is often lost when restaurants replicate themselves. The pizza here is damn good, largely because of the fresh ingredients, a crust that is chewy--but not too chewy--and mozzarella that is many cuts above standard pizza fare.This month, Pizzicato has one offering that should be a permanent fixture--the paesano pizza, made with black beans, roasted onions, sweet pepper, spiced chicken and Tillamook cheese. A tasty option for veggies is the tri colore, with roma and sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, red onions, feta cheese and basil. Pizzicato also offers two things you don't find in many pizza joints: good salads (avoid the Caesar in favor of the mista or spinach) and, in all the locations we checked, spotless accommodations. (MZ)

NINE LOCATIONS, 274-0375. CALL FOR HOURS.

PRODUCE ROW CAFE
Hungry as an ape? You'll go bananas over the mammoth sandwiches at Produce Row.Order two "small" versions and get treated to a heaping pair of hot heroes, each big enough for a satisfying lunch.The house special slips thinly sliced steak, cotto sausage and the usual cheese-steak toppings into a hearty roll. Diners with spicier appetites should try the hot 'n' sweet Caribbean chicken with the mouth-sizzling "special relish." Other options include the Big Mack with pastrami and onions, and the Stormin' Norman with Canadian bacon. The cafe, three cozy, interconnected rooms, also features a beer selection that rivals the size of its subs. Weekly music performances include an open jazz jam with Ron Steen on Monday nights ($2 cover). (JG)

204 SE OAK ST., 232-8355. 11 AM-MIDNIGHT MONDAY-FRIDAY,
NOON-MIDNIGHT SATURDAY, NOON-11 PM SUNDAY.

RIB CAGE
If you're searching for the source of that wonderful aroma wafting along Northeast Broadway these days, it's the Rib Cage, a tiny, minimally decorated haven for ribs that has some of the smoothest and smokiest barbecue sauces in town. Their sauces are not heavy and bitter-tasting; if anything, they lean toward the sweet side.The pork and beef ribs are large, lean and reasonably priced, and there's an assortment of sides that will knock your socks off.Especially tasty are the yams, which are spiced primarily with cinnamon and have a sweet, rich flavor that's not at all buttery. The owners are always trying new creations, like variations on the barbecue-style sandwich. One is a wonderful teriyaki chicken sandwich, which combines the crunch of raw onions with tomato, chicken breast, mayonnaise and a ring of pineapple. This ensemble sandwich is a real palate stunner and shouldn't be missed. For drinks, there's the usual assortment of colas and iced teas. Though the Rib Cage doesn't serve 7-Up, it does make a delicious 7-Up cake. (FF)

923 NE BROADWAY, 493-8810.
11 AM-9 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-11 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY, NOON-6 PM SUNDAY.

RIYADH'S
Heavy construction and the closure of the Hawthorne Bridge have made life difficult for businesses on lower Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard, so we're happy to see that Riyadh's is still around. A quiet place behind an unassuming storefront, the little Lebanese eatery serves a basic, solid menu of kabobs, mezzas, sandwiches and sides. Freshness and care in preparation are the hallmarks; the hummus is smooth and potent, the meats are well spiced and the felafel isn't greasy. Prices are excellent: A satisfying veggie mezza for one runs only $4.75; gyros are $3.50; and abundant side dishes--baba ghanouj, grape leaves, fava beans and the like--cost just two or three bucks. You can even get smoothies here, but the best way to cap off a meal at Riyadh's is by lingering long over a hot, sweet, muddy Turkish coffee.(JMcQ)

1318 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 235-1254. 11 AM-8:30 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY.

 

ROSE'S
Long ago, before there was Northwest Cuisine, Portland's favorite casual eateries were--believe it or not--Jewish delis. Goldberg's in the original Lloyd Center, Dave's in the old Blue Mouse block and Rose's on Northwest 23rd Avenue served matzo soup, chopped liver and sandwiches piled high with real corned beef and pastrami. Rose's was a particular favorite because of its Viennese pastries, slices of unctuous whipped cream rolls and dense, fudgey chocolate cakes that seemed impossibly huge. Of these great delis, only Rose's is still around. It's been exiled from Northwest Portland to a fading suburban strip mall, but it still serves those thick sandwiches and old-school pastries. The menu's been expanded and goyed up; avoid such deli heresies as taco chicken salad and lasagna. Stick with the basic sandwiches, all served on dark rye with a kosher pickle, or try a Reuben. It strays a bit with the addition of turkey, but it's still a good rendition of the classic grilled rye with corned beef, sauerkraut, Russian dressing and Gruyère (instead of Swiss). (JD)

12329 NE GLISAN ST., 254-6545.
7 AM-9 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY,
7 AM-10 PM FRIDAY, 9 AM-10 PM SATURDAY,
8 AM-9 PM SUNDAY.


Kelley Hamby

 

SAIGON KITCHEN
A perfect ad tag line for this rock-steady Asian outpost is: "Saigon Kitchen--they don't screw around." Walk through the doors at either location and you're instantly assaulted by waiters wanting to get you settled. Don't dillydally while making your selection; even before you drop the laminated menu overflowing with Vietnamese and Thai dishes you'll be asked for your order. Beg for five minutes and your waiter will be back in two and a half. SK regulars tend to find this charming, in the same way that pencil-chewing, eat-and-get-out diner-marms of days past were charming. SK gives you the goods. Your meal arrives quickly, it's hot, and dishes are extremely consistent visit to visit.The yellow curry chicken, rich with potatoes and carrots, noses out macaroni and cheese as the comfort food of the year.Make sure you check out SK's noodle soups. One in particular, the Hue beef noodle soup, beats echinacea in my book for curing a cold. This monster bowl of Pho (pronounced fuh), with its spicy beef-based broth and tons of noodles, comes with a condiment dish of limes, chilies, bean sprouts and cilantro. At just under $4, it's a miracle of modern medicine. (CBB)

3829 SE DIVISION ST., 236-2312. 11 AM-10 PM THURSDAY-FRIDAY, NOON-10 PM SATURDAY, CLOSED SUNDAY.

835 NE BROADWAY, 281-3669. 11 AM-10 PM DAILY.

SAKE DELI
With so-called bento spots on every street in town, it's hard to separate one from another. Sake Deli's bento stands out from the rest of those other boxed boys on the corner. Its chicken bento isn't left on a grill to dry out--instead it's taken off the skewer and stewed with veggies in a rich, secret-formula teriyaki sauce. The vegetables aren't just the standard piece of broccoli, a few chunks of green pepper and bunches of carrots; expect squash and other seasonal goodies in your Sake order. Grab as much pickled ginger as you'd like from a jar on the condiment table. Sake offers a wide selection of toppings, including a very nice peanut sauce. If bento isn't on your list today, you can also get deli sandwiches with ingredients that are carved right in front of you--it's a rare sandwich shop these days that takes its turkey right off the breast. (CBB)

837 SW 2ND AVE., 224-1250. 7:30 AM-6 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY. CLOSED SATURDAY AND SUNDAY.

SKYLINE RESTAURANT
You won't find chipotle chutney, Gardenburgers or tofu dogs on the menu at the authentically retro Skyline. In this museum for the food that time forgot, you will find burger platters garnished with maraschino cherries, potato salad topped with paprika (what, no deviled eggs?) and bleu cheese dressing--très français--for iceberg lettuce salads.As for the more weighty fare, the eponymous Skyline burger (pretty affordable at $2.60) is a modest sliver of flesh slathered with the essentials and tented by a big bun. More exotic choices range from a fried-fish platter to ham with barbecue sauce. The fries are fine, the mocha milk shakes accomplished and the soft-serve ice cream evocative of halcyon days. As its name suggests, Skyline has a view that rivals the Chart House's, but without the pretense or expense. With black vinyl booths, orange menus and fake wood paneling, the Skyline's ambience is a beacon of stability in these uncertain times. (NJ)

1313 NW SKYLINE BLVD., 292-6727. 11 AM-8:45 PM DAILY.

STANICH TEN TILL ONE TAVERN AND STANICH'S WEST
This writer has gathered many accomplishments in her life, such as learning the Cabbage Patch dance and meeting Oprah Winfrey. But none of these comes close to being declared a "burger-eating champ" by one of the truly discerning waitresses at Stanich's. The Ten till One, around since 1949, and its younger brother on Southwest Macadam Avenue are the grand burger pooh-bahs of Portland.A precursor to the sports bar, Stanich's puts forth its macho posturing by presenting the most obscene sandwich in town.Its "World's Greatest" burger comes with ham, bacon, cheese, lettuce, pickles, onions, tomatoes, special sauce and, in case you missed breakfast, a fried egg. To be declared a burger-eating champ like yours truly, follow these easy steps:

1) Wrap the burger tightly with the wax paper conveniently lining your basket, leaving only one open space for you to attack the burger.

2) Lift the fully wrapped burger to your mouth.

3) Never put the burger down. NEVER. If you do, it will fall apart.

4) Keep rolling down the wax paper as you eat more and more.

5) Use your free hand to grab the fab fries from the bulging basket in front of you.

6) Show the rapture on your smiling face. (CBB)

STANICH TEN TILL ONE TAVERN, 4915 NE FREMONT AVE., 281-2322. STANICH'S WEST, 5627 SW KELLY ST., 246-5040. 11 AM-10:30 PM SUNDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-11:30 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY.

STEPPING STONE CAFE
This low-key neighborhood breakfast joint is just a stone's throw from the bustling eateries of Northwest 23rd Avenue.But while hungry folks wait in line a few blocks away, customers here are already seated and halfway through the Sunday Times, sipping coffee from mix-and-match mugs as their eggs fry.Hearty stacks and fresh, simple omelettes served with toast and hash browns (moister than most) are winners, and the Birdwatcher's Special--two eggs, hash browns, toast and jam for $2.75--is a steal for early risers. Huge windows allow for lots of light, and shiny formica tables, vintage red chairs and an old-fashioned diner counter add casual charm to the straightforward menu. Friendly staff and eclectic posters add a subtle sense of humor to this no-frills local treasure. (LB)

2390 NW QUIMBY ST., 222-1132. 6 AM-2 PM TUESDAY-FRIDAY, 7:30 AM-2 PM SATURDAY-SUNDAY.

 

Kelley Hamby

STICKERS
The most charming addition to the growing knot of restaurants around the corner of Southeast Milwaukie Avenue and Bybee Street is this dim, diminutive eatery with sassy, artsy retro decor. Like its next-door neighbor Bella Coola, which serves dishes with origins all over the Americas, Stickers casts its net wide. Its theme is Asian street food, from jiaozi and satay to pad Thai and pappadams; the scale is small, and the prices are low. Pot stickers and dumplings head up the menu, which includes not only descriptions and a visual scale of heat (with a chili pepper as an icon) but also notes about the cultural contexts of some items. From it we learn that dumplings in hot oil are a favorite snack of Szechuan, that the house style of pad Thai is the southern version and that the pappadam is India's potato chip. Authenticity is sometimes stretched--the thick dumpling wrap, for example, is more reminiscent of pasta than what you'd encounter in China--but the assertively flavored, carefully prepared dishes are eminently satisfying. Stickers also has a great happy-hour special, the "double happy"--six pot stickers and a well drink for $4.50. Snack or meal? You be the judge. (JMcQ)

6808 SE MILWAUKIE AVE., 239-8739. 5 PM-10 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, 5 PM-9 PM SUNDAY.

 

SUSHI & MORE
One bad sushi experience will put you off fish for years or put you in line for a liver transplant. Freshness and quality, not bargain-basement prices, should be priorities for sushi restaurants. But have you ever had enough sushi? Do you wonder what it would be like to eat your fill of yellowfin sashimi and spicy tuna rolls without casting a nervous eye on the checklist? Sushi & More offers a prix fixe buffet of sushi and sashimi, along with a steam table of teriyaki, sukiyaki, miso soup, tempura and other goodies, such as steamed mussels and king-crab legs.It's a family place with the ambience of a made-over Long John Silver and a sound system specializing in soft rock.Families fill the booths for the sliding-scale prices (dinner is $13.99 for adults, $6.99 for kids 4-12 and free for younger ones), free refills on soda and a Jell-O bar. The sushi supply is simple and limited, but steady. It may not be wrapped as tightly or presented as elegantly as in a more sophisticated venue, but if you want to introduce the kids to sushi or if you just want to see for once how many California rolls you can eat, this is the place. (JTW)

10325 SW CANYON ROAD, BEAVERTON, 526-0255. 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 5:30-9:30 PM DAILY.

THE TAO OF TEA
When the coffee culture exploded several years back and the Starbucks mermaid-princess became as ubiquitous as the golden arches, folks could've guessed the tea industry might take note. It has. Witness the Tao of Tea's leafy alcove, which features more than 120 different teas from India, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, Japan and the good ol' United States, among other countries. This place is even planning on adding a tea-sampling annex to its softly lit, cushiony dining room. While the tea (at about $3-$4 a pot) is certainly the thing here, Tao also serves elegantly displayed meals. Aaloo Parantha features a tasty Indian flatbread rolled with potatoes, cilantro, red onion, ajwain, cumin, coriander and pomegranate. The bread is served with a tangy cucumber-mint raita, ginger chutney and the salad of the day--which might be just a simple handful of fresh chick peas. The Japanese rice balls stuffed with cucumber and tofu are somewhat bland but could be spiced up with the delicious sauces that come with most meals. The reasonably priced dessert menu, which includes Japanese mochi filled with ice cream, Danish shortbread and French butter cookies, sounds as though it came from the UN commissary.

3430 SE BELMONT ST., 736-0119. 11 AM-11 PM SUNDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-MIDNIGHT FRIDAY-SATURDAY.

TAQUERIA CHAVEZ
Local Mexicans and a few erudite college students are hip to the authentic Mexican cuisine served at Taqueria Chavez on Southeast 82nd Avenue.This little slice of Mexico smack in the middle of used-car land is one of the cheapest places to go for tripe or beef-tongue tacos when the craving hits.Succulent, tangy roast pork is cooked outside and ferried in for enchiladas, burritos and tacos that have much more flavor than most Americans are used to. Other dishes include gorditas, chimichangas, flautas and chiles rellenos. Though this is a sit-down restaurant, it is little bigger than a burrito box and very, very funky. Booths are colorful plastic affairs that might have been purchased from a going-out-of-business sale at Wendy's, and the food is served on paper plates. The decor is a blend of brightly colored Mexican scarves and daunting Christian iconography. When it gets busy the food orders can slow up quite a bit, but it's definitely worth the wait. (FF)

5703 SE 82ND AVE., 777-2282. 10 AM-10 PM DAILY.

TASTE OF BALI
Incongruously located a couple doors down from the Heathman, this enclave of Southeast Asian cooking provides a welcome break from bad bento and banal burritos, the predominant downtown ethnic fare. Regrettably rare here in honkytown, Indonesian food, usually served over rice or noodles, is full of chilies, lime juice, peanuts, coconut milk and dried shrimp.For an introduction to Taste of Bali's fine version of Indo chow, try the satay ayam malaysia, skewered chicken in a peppery peanut sauce, or sayur lodeh, mixed vegetables stewed in coconut milk with tempeh. The caffeinated beverages and desserts (particularly the es cendol--a concoction of mung beans and coconut milk) are wonderful examples of the Indonesian love of syrupy-sweet condensed milk. The atmosphere is sedate, with only a few airline posters and tourist trinkets to remind you where you are. Fortunately, the manager, a hyperkinetic Filipino named Donny Estrada keeps the joint jumping. (NJ)

947 SW BROADWAY, 224-2254. 11:30 AM-8 PM MONDAY, 11 AM-
8 PM TUESDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-9 PM FRIDAY, NOON-9 PM SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.

THAI TOUCH
In spite of the friendliness of the staff and the obvious efforts at sprucing up the place--painted designs on the acoustic-panel ceiling and richly encrusted Thai embroidery on white linen under the glass tabletop--Thai Touch doesn't seem like a place for hanging around. But unlike so many Thai restaurants with stellar yet unfounded word-of-mouth reputations, Thai Touch has something to offer.It's best to avoid the dishes that sound like fancy bar drinks (Heart to Heart, Pink Lady), but you'll do quite well with dishes bearing Thai names. Try the paht woon sen: clear mung-bean noodles, slivers of black mushrooms, white and green onions and scrambled egg--like a glass-noodle pad Thai with mushrooms. Other good bets are a papaya salad--slices of green papaya and carrots in spicy lime sauce--and naam sod, ground pork enlivened with fresh ginger, dry chili pepper and that incendiary lime dressing. Specials can be hit or miss, even if the staff recommends them, but overall this is good, inexpensive neighborhood Thai takeout. (JTW)

4806 SE STARK ST., 230-2875. 11 AM-
2:30 PM, 5-9 PM TUESDAY-SUNDAY. CLOSED MONDAY.

TIGER BAR
The meals at Tiger Bar are above average, but the spot is more of a hipster hangout than a restaurant. It offers plenty of attitude and atmosphere on weekends and during special events, such as spangly fashion shows. But Tiger Bar falls a little flat on an ordinary weeknight--which is fine if you're looking for a mellow, uncrowded ambience and a filling plate of noodles or satay. Start with crystal salad rolls, the house favorite; these rice-paper wraps stuffed with serrano chilies, spinach, toasted coconut, ginger and crush peanuts cost only $4 for two. For an unconventional taste of sweet and sour, go with a friend and share an order of salty yakisoba (veggies and Japanese noodles with tofu, chicken, beef or prawns) or an entree of veggies and choice of protein (same as above, minus the prawns). All of the noodle and rice dishes are enormous, so you may end up with leftovers, stretching an already reasonably priced meal into two bargain servings.(CM)

317 NW BROADWAY, 222-7297. 5:30 PM-2:30 AM DAILY.

TONEY BENTO
Cross the aesthetics of the quintessential Japanese restaurant and a surfer burrito stand, insert a raucous Hawthorne crowd and you'll end up at Toney Bento. Everyone in there seems happy; even the people who work there seem to love it. Not only does the benevolent proprietor of this lively place ring a gong when each order is ready, he comes around to check on everybody eating out of the big white bowls. For those who haven't experienced the bento (box lunch) sensation, Toney's version of the genre is any combination of chicken, steak, fish, tofu and vegetables atop white or brown rice. You'll get formidable amounts of food for a negligible sum (about $4). Two veggie pot stickers are a bargain at only $1.Underneath a twinkling umbrella lies the most gracious condiment table you'll ever see, with endless varieties of chili, Thai peanut, plum, Fuji fire and barbecue sauces.Along with a fat jar of fortune cookies, vats of ginger and wasabi wait to send you on your lucky way. (KM)

1423 SE 37TH AVE., 234-4441.
11 AM-8 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, NOON-6 PM SUNDAY.


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