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309 NE 76th St., Vancouver, Wash., 360-907-8582, railsidebrewing.com. 3-9 pm Tuesday-Thursday, 3-10 pm Saturday-Sunday, closed Monday-Tuesday.
Let's start with the pizza. Once you make your way to the back of the shopping-center parking lot to RailSide's tiny, refurbished brewpub, you're going to want one of their pies—with thin, chewy crust, bubbled up and golden brown on the edges and soft in the middle. They pretty much put every non-Double Mountain brewpub pie in the region to shame. But this isn't a pizza guide and, unfortunately, much of RailSide's English-style beer is not only warmer and flatter than that to which Americans are accustomed, but plagued by an unshakable off-flavor reminiscent of apple juice. Your best bets are the pleasantly boozy Belgian dubbel, the Trestle IPA and the Coal Loader Stout, which is deep and molasses sweet.
Drink this: A big ol' glass of pizza (14 inches, $20.50), which comes in nine recognizable classic styles with fun train names like the Engine (pepperoni, Italian sausage, black olives, green peppers, onions and mushrooms) and Caboose (basil, tomatoes, mozzarella). Or build your own, starting at $14.
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An Oral History of the Horse Brass
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