639 SE 223rd Ave., Gresham, 503-758-6464, barleysproutbrewery.wordpress.com. Noon-9 pm Wednesday-Sunday.

Though the nearly-year-old Barley Sprout sports a less-than-bucolic view of four lanes of traffic and the Lucky 7 Food Mart, former Captured by Porches brewer Dylan Goldsmith has managed to carve out a slice of rural life in Gresham's Twelvemile Corner. He's not only revived his brewery in the Barley Sprout space, but all of his recipes are made with farm-sourced ingredients, including some from the hidden-away four-acre farm out back. Meanwhile, business partner David Shonk fires up the restaurant's sourdough thin-crust pizzas that incorporate barley malt. During one visit, four housemade beers were on tap, including a refreshingly mild and earthy old-school IPA, a bold and caramel-rich imperial red ale, and a Bumble Bee Raspberry blonde that offered a muted mix of sweet and tart flavors. Look for Goldsmith to continue his foray into malt experimentation, which began when he malted his own barley three years ago. He's not the only one at Barley Sprout now crafting beverages: Shonk's honey-lavender lemonade has proven to be such a hit that Barley Sprout even sells to-go bottles.

Drink this: The porter (6.3 percent ABV) is smooth and balanced with rich, chocolate-trufflelike notes, giving way to a coffee flavor.

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