2200 NE Andresen Road, Vancouver, Wash., 360-524-4692, fortsidebrewing.com. Tuesday-Friday 4-10 pm, 1-10 pm Saturday, 1-8 pm Sunday. Closed Monday.

"We're not living in shitty-ass Oregon!," yells a man in a purple polo shirt, early on a Sunday afternoon to his table. The concrete-floored Fortside is where you'll learn that Southwest Washington has a beer rivalry with Oregon. Fortside puts up a decent fight against the effete dweebs across the pond with a handsome, sparsely decorated brewpub lined with reclaimed wood and with a selection of merchandise that rivals its 18 beers on tap. The Sentinel Centennial IPA is a vegetal and grassy hop-bomb Northwest classic, where the Couve-toberfest is a very drinkable Märzen for those looking for a grain-first brew. But you'll want to avoid anything barrel-aged, as those tend to be sloppy booze bombs. Most of Fortside's beers pair nicely with the locally made beef jerky—from Clackamas, in shitty-ass Oregon—a nice treat, especially if you're going to be driving, which isn't unlikely as Fortside is far from everything except the trampoline park. My companion informed me that Fortside can get pretty rowdy once the sun goes down. If you're in the mood to crush some beers and bitch about Oregon sissies, you've come to the right place.

Drink this: My favorite is the Zythological Pale Ale, which is dank for the style with a crisp finish.

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