funhousebrews.com. Check website for available taps.

"For whom is the funhouse fun?" is a tendentious slogan for a brewery called Funhouse, a line from a house-of-mirrors novel from '60s avant-gardist John Barth. Brewer-owner Jason Rizos isn't just a 20-year homebrewer and former president of the Oregon Brew Crew, but also a college instructor, so maybe he can't help getting literary. According to Rizos, he made his Jamaican Wizard smoked rye pale after a Jamaican stranger "cast a spell" that sent him into a trance—leaving him trying to re-create a beer he couldn't remember. Much like the tale of its making, the beer doesn't quite hold together, but it's interesting. Funhouse has only been brewing since December in Rizos' home hear North Lombard Street, and is only available at Portsmouth neighborhood spots like Chill N Fill and Vagabond. The only other Funhouse beer publicly available so far is a well-made, soft-on-the-palate brown called Squirrel Riot that's much quieter than its name. But then again, it's squirrels.

Drink this: The Jamaican Wizard feels almost like a puzzle to solve, in the pleasant way.

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