6635 N Baltimore Ave., 503-719-7102. 11 am-10 pm daily.

The Occidental Wursthaus is remembering me with such fondness on the sausage houses and gardens of München, where children are drunk in the grass and fall down sometimes and we laugh at them. The German-style brewery called Occidental has made a bar upstairs from itself, with a balcony view of the beautiful bridge. I say "Prost!" to that, heartily. But imagine my surprise to find Bavarian-style white sausages from cleverly rhyming sausage maker Urban German served even after noon! Can you imagine it? Were I eating that morning sausage in afternoons in Bavaria, every person would laugh at me. "Then you will lose your hair!" they would say. Lucky thing the brats and the housemade mustards are echt-Deutsch and very good, and the pretzels are old-school and made with lye. And every dark beer that Occidental is ever making, it is full with banana and warm and round, from the doppelbock to the dunkel and dunkelweizen and altbier. They are all so lovely in the winter it breaks your heart like every World Cup except wonderful 2014. MATTHIAS KORFHAGE.

(Occidental Brewing, Emily Joan Greene)
(Occidental Brewing, Emily Joan Greene)

Drink this: Dark beers. All of the dark German beers. Oh, and the Kölsch, which does not feel echt-German but is clean and refreshing.

(Occidental Brewing, Thomas Teal)
(Occidental Brewing, Thomas Teal)
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