9740 SW Wilsonville Road, Wilsonville, 503-310-1988, ordnancebrewing.com. 4-9 pm Monday-Thursday, noon-10 pm Friday-Saturday, noon-6 pm Sunday.

Did you know that, according to chemistry, alcohol is a solution? I didn't until I started reading the dad jokes scribbled on the big round table at the Ordnance in Wilsonville. This isn't actually a brewery, but rather a denlike suburban taproom from a brewery in the desolate scrub-brush town of Boardman, 2 1/2 hours east of Portland. Like Yakima's much-loved Bale Breaker, this is an ambitious attempt at vertical integration by a hop farmer who figured he'd brew 'em himself. Score another one for the farmers, as this ammo-themed brewery's libations are, on the whole, quite good. They do a version of the white coffee stout made famous by Cascade, have an excellent saison aged in wine barrels with Brett, and make one of the best fruited wheat beers I've had in a long while, a blueberry wheat called Bloops that uses some berries from their own farm.

Drink this: I'm a huge fan of Bloops, a crusher with a nose redolent of fresh, ripe berries and a super-smooth finish.

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