9073 SE Sunnyside Road, Happy Valley, 503-659-1282, theram.com. 11 am-close Monday-Sunday.

How do you feel about cul-de-sacs? If you're one of those people whose skin gets scratchy when in the suburbs, the Ram is definitely not for you. But if you're someone who can understand why a young family might want to live on a nice, quiet street in Happy Valley, welcome. This big, boxy, vaguely Parade of Homes-themed operation is part of a 30-strong national chain based in suburban Tacoma. The beers are well-made across the board and the local brewers have some latitude in making their own local creations, such as a New England-style IPA called Hop Goggles and a super-creamy milk stout called Chill Out. Foodwise, it's very hit and miss—avoid the ahi poke nachos at all costs, and order your burger rare unless you want it very well done.

Drink this: I liked the hazy New England IPA quite a lot. They also do a good job on mild-mannered IPAs.

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