Empire Of The Roll

[May 17th, 2006] The Northeast Broadway neighborhood has become a bit of a mecca for sushi bars; there are four within a one-mile radius of Lloyd Center. So, the opening of another Japanese joint on Broadway seemed like a crazy idea. But a couple of bites of the supple seared albacore at Meiji-En changed my mind.

Meiji-En, which means "Empire Park," is the brainchild of Vincent Pham, who has sliced and rolled at two of Portland's best sushi dens, Yuki and Sinju. The influence of both restaurants can be felt and tasted in his new venture, which is great news for us raw-fish lovers.

The interior of Meiji-En has the same minimalist elegance as Sinju. Pham transformed the spot formerly occupied by the much ignored Noodlehead restaurant, adding tatami rooms and a sushi bar as well as too-cute-to-be-true bonsai trees. A flat-screen TV tuned to Japanese programs is the only "clunk" in the harmonious design. Fortunately, the TV's sound is always off. Unfortunately, this leaves diners subject to a grating pan-Asian Muzak station.

The menu includes classic Japanese appetizers—avoid the salad rolls ($3.50), with their iceberg lettuce and ketchup-red dipping sauce. The kitchen does better with the traditional nibbles like green lip mussels ($4.95) broiled with spicy mayo and a soothing miso soup ($1.50) that has just enough smoky bonito flake flavor to remind you what you're really here for: the fish.

The menu centers around two pages of sushi options. The nigiri is top-notch, and though the restaurant isn't terribly busy yet, it's consistently doling out exceptional yellowtail ($4.25), rich salmon ($3.95) and delicate fluke ($3.95) in generous portions. My dining partner marveled at the tamago ($2.50), which reminded him of versions he'd tasted in Tokyo, where thin layers of slightly sweet omelet are carefully folded to create a delicate tidbit on rice, rather than the rubbery egg puck common in America.

The long list of creative rolls follows the example of Pham's former employer, Yuki. Though usual suspects like California rolls ($4.50) are available, more interesting choices like the faddish Las Vegas roll with deep-fried salmon and cream cheese ($8.50) and the "Meiji" ($8.50)—a tempura shrimp roll crowned with spicy diced tuna and flying-fish roe—keep things fresh.

The menu lists a smattering of cooked Japanese dishes, but they seem like a bit of an afterthought. On one visit the mixed tempura appetizer ($6.95) was pale and soggy, and the pork oyakodon ($9.95)—a panko-breaded pork loin topped with caramelized onions and egg—tipped the sodium scale to excessive. That's particularly a problem since the waitstaff doesn't seem to believe that serving water with meals is a priority.

Despite a few glitches, the draw of sushi made with care at prices just a skosh below competitors' positions Meiji-En become a real empire.