Alba Osteria & Enoteca

[October 17th, 2007] 6440 SW Capitol Highway, 977-3045. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$$ Expensive.

Tucked into a slight building in the Hillsdale neighborhood, Alba churns out delectable northern Italian cuisine (from the Piemonte region) for Southwest foodies with a good sense of direction. If you can find it, you’ll land in the lap of stellar service. Enjoy the calming, sage-green room and prepare for a food journey. Chef-owner Kurt Spak (formerly of Sellwood’s stellar Caprial’s Bistro) offers a strong menu—heavy on the truffles—of salads, meats and pastas. While adventurous eaters can explore the raw beef appetizer or the sweetbreads in mustard sauce, tamer tastes will be pleased with the tangy smoked trout salad. The housemade pasta is feather-light and makes a fine nest for the pork sausage ragú. The ahi tuna is cooked to a perfectly juicy medium rare, and the roast duck breast with huckleberry mostarda offers several levels of savory flavor. Charming servers are quick with a quip and know the menu and all-Italian wine list inside and out. (SLC)

Signature Dish: Agnolotti Verde dal Plin (pinched, folded spinach pasta) represents the Piemonte region perfectly.

Standout: Scrumptious Bing cherry and toasted almond tortoni dessert.

Regrets: A tough hanger steak; too spendy ($21) for frequent visits.