Caprial’s Bistro

[October 17th, 2007] 7015 SE Milwaukie Ave., 236-6457. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$-$$$ Moderate-Expensive.

Why watch Caprial and John Pence’s cooking show on television (OPB, Channel 10, Sundays at 5:30 pm) when you can discover their Northwest-fusion cuisine for yourself? Innovative but accessible dishes populate the short yet well-rounded menu. A habit-forming risotto fritter appetizer with roasted red-pepper dip accompanies a Middle Eastern-themed salmon with bright, herby tabbouleh and zingy preserved-lemon purée. Don’t overlook the desserts. A sour-cream crumb cake paired with vanilla ice cream in a lace cookie bowl and topped with saucy cherries is a medley of complementary treats. There’s a lot going on there, but who’s complaining? A bustling, airy dining room with big windows and an open kitchen is full of light and energy, if a bit loud. Stop by for lunch on your next Sellwood antiquing mission. (SC)

Signature dish: Seasonal fish in always-evolving preparations, often with Asian or Middle Eastern flavors.

Standouts: Slippery pappardelle with succulent prawns, roasted chilies, jalapeño salsa and knock-out fresh corn.

Regrets: Service is sweet and earnest, but sometimes spread thin.