Carlyle

[October 17th, 2007] 1632 NW Thurman St., 595-1782. Dinner nightly. $$$ Expensive.

Though the Pearl District’s northward march has yet to swallow Carlyle, this sexy dining oasis still manages to outclass most spots in town, despite having an address in the heart of Northwest Portland’s gritty industrial underbelly. The softly lit dining space is romantic: dark wood accents with a few choice tables under tall ceilings. The cuisine is just as lofty. Plump mussels in heady tomato brine specked with Spanish chorizo are perhaps the best bivalves anyone here has ever tasted. It’s too bad they arrived 30 minutes late (and even worse that they still appeared on the bill). But all is forgiven with a textbook salad Lyonnaise that touts a nicely poached duck egg atop a bed of frisée and a smattering of slightly charred asparagus, the trio of flavors bound by salty lardon vinaigrette. The filet mignon goes over the top with foie gras bordelaise and a centerpiece tempura-fried tiger prawn. Save room for dessert, because the butterscotch pudding parfait will tug at your sweet tooth three ways: with a butterscotch pecan brownie, crystallized candied pecans and whipped cream that’s light as Andean air. (MT)

Signature Dish: Carlyle boasts an excellent, ever-changing array of artisan cheeses.

Standout: Chef Patrick Schultz has a light touch with seafood.

Regrets: Bar service is lackluster at times.