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ISSUE #32.50 • SPECIAL SECTION • RESTAURANT GUIDE 2006

Willamette Week's Restaurant Guide 2006


The Year of the Artisan, and our 100+ Favorite Places to Eat - Introduction.

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BY BYRON BECK | bbeck at wweek dot com

[October 18th, 2006] Hello Readers,

With 150-plus restaurants to check out over the course of three months, this is the biggest (and smallest—more on that in a moment) restaurant issue Willamette Week has ever offered its readers. And we can't wait to share all the tabletop treasures we're excited about with your hungry self—from homespun innovator Le Pigeon, Simpatica (P-town's new Brunch Central) and East Burnside Southern sweetheart Screen Door to delicious local pillars from Genoa to—biz meltdown be damned—clarklewis.

Truth is, this has been the most challenging WW Restaurant Guide I've had the chance to work on. It starts with the size. We've wanted to provide readers with a more hand-friendly guide for years (this issue will fit in most of your glove compartments). And when we decided to change the size, well, that got us to thinking about what other stuff we could change. We still designate each restaurant with a Signature Dish, Standouts and Regrets, but this year we tried (and the emphasis is "tried," here) to rate every restaurant in this guide. Our original (expensive) plan was to have every reviewer rate each and every place. That didn't work. At the end of the day, eating is a subjective, not objective, process. One person's favorite dish might give someone else hives, or worse. But through our intriguing rating debate process we did discover one thing: You can highlight restaurants on individual merits like taste. That's why you'll find spread throughout the guide something we call High Five. In these short features, five of our best contributors recognize restaurants for Taste, Ambience, Service, Innovation and Track Record. You'll also find a wonderfully sassy article that tells what happens when you order Sauce on the Side, as well as directories that separate the restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood.

This is the second year in a row we've decided not to designate an individual restaurant for recognition. Last year we picked an entire restaurant row, Northeast Alberta Street. And this year, we went in a whole other direction. So, what gives? Are we a group of slacker critics having trouble coming to a consensus? Hardly.

When a group of our contributors gathered together for a rowdy dinner and to pick a Restaurant of the Year, we came to the realization that it wasn't so much one place that's defined '06 as it was the folks walking through the back door of those restaurants and stores to drop off cheese and meats or the people selling their wares at our city's raging Farmers Markets (the wine helped us make that decision, of course). Our team of foodie reporters hand-picked food vendors and artisans who create the kind of foodstuffs that have help define what one more pithy than I might call the "Portland Menu." These Artisans of the Year are people we're truly excited about. We hope you are, too.













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Now, if you don't see your favorite place, it might be in our Cheap Eats guide (it comes out next spring), or maybe you need to email us (dish@wweek.com) and let us know what we've been missing out on. We've indicated restaurants that have opened since our last guide with a NEW icon and the key for restaurant costs as rated in this guide is:

$$ Moderate: most entrees under $20

$$$ Expensive: most entrees under $30

$$$$ Veeery expensive: most entrees more than $30

And remember, days and hours of operation are subject to change depending on weather and the mood of the chef. Now get out there and start eating. We'll see you at the table.

Enjoy,

Byron Beck

Editor

STAFF

Editor Byron Beck

Assistant Editor Ben Waterhouse

Contributors Angela Allen, Kevin Allman, Mark Baumgarten, Stephen Marc Beaudoin, Byron Beck, Tiffany Lee Brown, Shoshanna Cohen, Kelly Clarke, Liz Crain, Ian F. Demsky, Tim Duroche, Ian Gillingham, Nigel Jaquiss, Ivy Manning, Amy Mccullough, Nancy Rommelmann, Roger J. Porter, Laura Shinn, Hank Stern, Angela Valdez, Miriam Wolf, Heidi Yorkshire

copy Editors Kat Hyatt, Ian Gillingham, Raymond Rendleman

Art Director Thomas Cobb

Design & Production Renée Bielawski, Erik Blad, Brian Brown, Joe Davis, Maggie Gardner, Tom Humphrey, Matt Wong, Cari Vander Yacht

Photography Jenna Biggs, Tom Oliver, Amy Ouellette. Cover Photo By Jenna Biggs.

Special Thanks To Pascal Sauton And The Staff Of Carafemenu

RESTAURANT GUIDE MENU: INTRODUCTION | YEAR OF THE ARTISAN | OUR 100-PLUS FAVORITE RESTAURANTS (A-G) | OUR 100-PLUS FAVORITE RESTAURANTS (H-M) | OUR 100-PLUS FAVORITE RESTAURANTS (N-Z) | HIGH FIVE | S.O.S.

 

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Doug Schryver  writes on Oct 20th, 2006 4:29pm

I like the new, smaller format for the Restaurant Guide. But, perhaps what I like most is the photo on the cover. What's better than a saucy chocolatier served with a healthy dollop of cleavage?

G. Perkins  writes on Oct 20th, 2006 10:26pm

Less than stellar work this year.

Michelann Ortloff  writes on Oct 23rd, 2006 10:14am

I was delighted to read that Echo, one of my favorite restaurants, made your list. However, your reviewer must have been cloned in a bubble near The Pearl. "Alone" way out here in the hinterlands of MLK? Near nothing? I've lived in this neighborhood for 27 years. Why don't you get out of your car or off your bike and walk my streets. Perhaps then you can imagine that Echo is a welcome addition to our eclectic, diverse, and lively Eliot neighborhood. Can you and your reviewer truly be that clueless? Or maybe it's race that keeps you thinking that some parts of NE Portland remain terra incognito. Perhaps you might try Alberta or Mississippi streets for places more in your comfort zone.

Jenny & Peter Goodman  writes on Oct 25th, 2006 9:07am

We're total foodies.

We travel tons and really enjoy trying foods around the world that are new to us.

What we've found is that food reviews are subjective.

For example: We went to Autentica and we agree that it was the most disappointing Mexican food we've ever had.

The upshot is than one should never rely on someone else's palate.

If beauty is in the eye of the beholder....then taste is in the mouth of the eater and the best way to know what's good.....and what isn't.....is to try restaurants YOURSELF and cross off the ones like Autentica and keep the ones that you like.

Everything else is just Marketing

Marco Pesce  writes on Oct 25th, 2006 4:13pm

The chocolatier photo was definitely the best part of the Sahagun piece that led off the Restaurant Guide next year -- the text itself was garbage.

If you would allow me to make a suggestion, lead off with a slightly stronger piece next year. And tell NR, whomever he or she is, to get over his or her iridescent, dreamy, star-gathering self and take a writing workshop or three.

If only this piece had been buried just a few pages deeper, it would not have taken away from the entire effect as much; all told, there is plenty of good food writing in the guide.

Brandon Johnstun  writes on Dec 5th, 2006 4:06pm

I would like to know how to find, or get your list of restaurants that are open on Christmas. The list should mostly include buffets and chinese buffets. Let me know how to look it up on your site, or send a list. Thank you for your time and effort.

Brandon Johnstun

Oliver  writes on Mar 23rd, 2007 3:04pm

The list is great, the print version is nicely presented, but if you're gonna put this on the web, you simply HAVE to get your site organized and into a database WW!! If I'm coming to your site looking for info on restaurants, it's very likely the LAST piece of information I already have is the name of the restaurant. This list needs to be put into a simple DB that allows visitors to search by zip, or neighborhood, or food style/ethnicity or any other useful category. While you're at it - try listing anything else on your site in this way too, such as anything that's a scheduled event or performance on your calendar.

Web Editor  writes on Mar 23rd, 2007 3:19pm

Try this, Oliver:

foodfinder.wweek.com/

Thanks for the feedback!

patrick  writes on Jun 26th, 2007 10:23am

to the usability....scrolling up and down the page the least prominent thing is the actual links to the restaurants. more prominent placement, perhaps use graphical icons to highlight the list.

levi migneault  writes on Sep 12th, 2007 9:16pm

I agree with comments by Oliver above. I would like to find resterants that you feel are outstanding and collect them by neighberhoods. When we come to the portland area i do not want to eat through also rans to get to a good experience. When i look at your list spread out over such a large area my eyes fog over. Just now i am planing a weeks vacation to the mt. hood area. I looked for resterants on our way,as in sandy, or greshom,or in welches area, no luck. Maybe at 65 im just not abel to find the obviouse, even so why not structure your sight for the least internet cabable of us. Help me spend my money on good dinning, I have lots of it' if only we could find places to spend it.

Doug  writes on Sep 30th, 2007 5:20pm

I didn't see anything on Portafino in Sellwood; Did I miss it or have you missed out!

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