Cravings: Cannoli

[October 3rd, 2007]

In reality, cannoli are, as Wikipedia points out, “tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough, filled with a sweet, creamy filling.” To this Italian-American journalist, however, they’re more than that: They are a symbol of the Old Country in America. The best cannoli I’ve ever had were handmade by an old Sicilian couple out of their nondescript shop in San Mateo, Calif.—a shop where time seemed to have stopped in the 1950s. We’re talking deep-fried, painstakingly fresh shells stuffed with some of the sweetest ricotta cheese you’ll ever find and dotted on the sides with cherry candies. True heaven in the shape of an Italian dessert. Longing for this same intimate experience locally turned out to produce a few fried shells that would make fictional gangster Pete Clemenza from The Godfather proudly say, “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.”

RATINGS

5: Now thatsa nice cannoli!

4: Old Country-worthy.

3: Not bad.

2: Call the hitman.

1: That’s cannoli? No, really, that’s cannoli?

Martinotti’s (404 SW 10th Ave., 224-9028) This established downtown Italian deli does many things—Italian-food-wise—correctly, and cannoli ($3.50) are no exception…for the most part. Tony Soprano would crack a grin at the generous-sized shells, dusted with powdered sugar and packed with fresh, housemade ricotta blended with fruit nougat and chocolate bits. The ricotta here has a slightly rough look and feel to it, which adds to the already dense texture of cannoli. Little Italys across America would welcome it. RATING: 4

PastaWorks (3735 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 232-1010) While fresh pasta is the name of the game in this European-style market, it seems cannoli ($2.50) are more of a side show. A prepackaged shell, which didn’t seem so fresh—though luckily it wasn’t mushy, a cardinal cannoli sin—was simply stuffed with ricotta pulled from the fridge. No powdered sugar was to be found, though staffers say it is part of the dish. The only topping was a smattering of pistachios. The ricotta contained small bits of chocolate, though, creating a lingering sweetness that kept a foodie hit from being issued. RATING: 2.5

Mamma Mia Trattoria (43 SW 2nd Ave., 295-6464) Seeing this downtown trattoria’s cannoli ($6.50) arrive on the plate, drizzled in chocolate, made me whisper amore at first sight. Initial bites into the shell found it to be slightly more crunchy than I like, but all was forgotten as hints of sweetness from the ricotta-and-chopped-chocolate interior played along my palate. The ricotta in particular was light, creamy and even somewhat airy in nature. RATING: 4

Apizza Scholls (4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-1286) Is it possible for one of the best pizza places in town to also have some fine cannoli ($3)? The answer is yes—mostly. While the shells here are not made in-house, the filling is. The creamy center is infused with a hint of orange flavoring, topped with fresh pistachios and bookended with bits of chocolate. The whole package is then lightly dusted with sugar for a burst of sweetness in the mouth. This appeal was thrown off-kilter by a green tint from the pistachios, which I found not completely in step with the rest of the cannolo. Still, the tube—which even smelled good as I wiped an accidental dollop of the filling from the tip of my nose—is a solid Italian dessert. RATING:3

Di Prima Dolci (1936 N Killingsworth St., 283-5936) We end this cravings roundup with what may be the best cannoli ($2.25-$4) Portland has to offer. (Northwest Portland’s Piazza Italia, considered by many a worthy cannoli contender, seems to serve them so sporadically you need to call ahead to locate a tube.) Di Prima’s two sizes of fresh shells, which feature just the right amount of crunchiness, provide a near-perfect bed to host the fresh, sweet ricotta. A generous dusting of powdered sugar and a choice of three toppings (chocolate chips, pistachios or candied cherries) make a great treat even sweeter. The best part? The first bite yielded a mouthful of creamy ricotta flavored with hints of cinnamon. Viva la dolce vita! RATING: 5