Three Square Grill

[October 17th, 2007] 6320 SW Capitol Highway, 244-4467. Dinner nightly $$ Moderate. This Hillsdale neighborhood mainstay, housed in a shopping center, closed in late summer to repaint its gold-textured walls and redecorate with local art. Those weren’t the only changes. After 12 years of lunches, owners David and Barbara Barber have narrowed their focus to just one square meal: dinner. Go traditional with local green salads or excellent corn chowder. An opener of crab-stuffed artichoke with lobster butter is a creamy delight. Try the oddly successful pairing of grilled shrimp with grits and greens. The signature smoked-salmon hash is filled with smoky flavor (and makes a great leftover). Pleasant surprise: The garlic herb-roasted Kookoolan Farm organic chicken doesn’t taste like chicken! It has much milder flavor than most fowl, and the tender chicken-liver garnish will banish childhood food fears. (SLC)

Signature dish: Natural beef meatloaf is way better than Grandma’s.

Standout: The appetizer of fried okra, pickle and hush puppies with jalapeño jelly is crunchy and zesty!

Regrets: The apple pie lacks sugar, spice and anything nice.