Chi-Chi
You don't have to watch Dynasty to have an attitude.

BY CHRISTINA MELANDER

melander@wweek.com


contents

PUB CRAWLS

BREWPUBS

BREW CLUB PROFILE

BRITISH, IRISH

COCKTAILS

THE SCIENCE OF DRINKING

FUN AND GAMES

GAY BARS

KARAOKE

OLD MEN

OUTDOORS

SPORTS BARS

THE YOUNG AND THE RESTLESS

WINE

WINE WORDS

 


The term "upscale" can have such negative connotations. But it's simplistic to write off bars we might deem as too good for us barely-scraping-by types. These bars may be spendier and have real wood paneling, but they are neither the sole domain of moneyed professionals, nor prohibitively expensive. Though watering holes that use real glasses don't appeal to everyone, they're not as exclusive as you think. If you believe that Higgins only attracts the kind of customer that can afford to drop $50 on dinner and drinks seven nights a week or that the Veritable Quandary is a pick-up joint for boisterous SUV-drivers who crunch numbers from 9 to 5 and schmooze from 6 to 11, take a peek at what the patrons are wearing. As in most Portland establishments, jeans, not bowties, prevail, and the clientele is far from one-dimensional.

Consider chi-chi bars for what they offer: a social experience that's aesthetically pleasing and devoid of a joyless hipster quotient. You won't find any chunky shoes or Betty Page hairdos at these places. If it's your first time visiting, go after happy hour to guarantee a table from which to observe the scene. Take a good look. Sure, there may be a few cackling, unctuous patrons, but you're more likely to notice the staff's attentiveness and the high comfort level.

HIGGINS RESTAURANT AND BAR
Hazelnuts roasted in chilies and honey, beer from Belgium and Norway. These menu choices exemplify the flavor of Higgins--Pacific Northwest earthiness and foreign panache. The clubby interior, with the charm and comfort of a well-worn leather briefcase, makes you feel at home, but the unconquerable list of libations takes you on an exotic odyssey. The journey is quite likely to transport you to Belgium as the tiny country enjoys a healthy representation of about 50 brews on Higgins' beer list. There are also a few from France--though the French, however nationalistic, prefer Heineken over their homegrown ales--as well as England, Germany, Canada and the U.S., including four barleywines. New on tap is the German Späten Bock ($4 for a pint), a malty beer that goes down a little too easy. The wowing Scotch menu comes complete with descriptions so mouth-watering--"Glenrothes: toffee, vanilla and malt tones with an alluring hint of mint and smoke"--you may be reduced to a drooling babe who's only choice is to fork over the $12.50 fee. While you're at it, invest in some haute pub fare. Choose anything, it's all delicious.

1239 SW BROADWAY, 222-9070. OPEN DAILY. BEER, WINE AND LIQUOR.

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK'S HARBORSIDE PILSNER ROOM
The Willamette River is fine, but it's no Chesapeake Bay or Boston Harbor. One annex of Portland's waterfront does come close to emulating those historic ports: River Place. Along a stretch of sidewalk that beach-deprived Portlanders refer to as a boardwalk, sits the Harborside Hotel's Pilsner Room. Windows overlooking the water lend an Annapolis feel to this roomy bar, but there's no Old Bay seasoning (such a fine companion to beer) peppering the menu. You will find the brass railings and Dartmouth green upholstery common to so many hotel hangouts. You'll also come head to head, so to speak, with a host of regional brews on tap and a few standard bottles--Amstel Light, MGD, Bud. Draft beers include several by Full Sail, including Mercator Doppelbock and, for a limited time, Hawthorne Ale; the popular Deschutes trilogy of Black Butte, Mirror Pond and Obsidian Stout; and Pilsner Urquell. To cater to its diverse clientele of travelers and locals, the Pilsner Room is equipped with televisions, video games and lots of food: a giant dinner menu, pub grub and a celebrated happy-hour hot sheet that changes monthly.

0309 SW MONTGOMERY ST., 220-1865.
OPEN DAILY. BEER, WINE AND LIQUOR.

THE ROSE AND RAINDROP
This bar looks like a remnant of the belle époque, and it exudes an appropriately uplifting ambience. High ceilings, potted palms and pink accents help to create welcoming environs that can support either a raucous or subdued crowd. Whether you grab a bunch of pals and squeeze into an intimate round booth or flirt solo at the classy bar, you'll find a place to fit into this spacious parlor. Though there's plenty of beer to choose from, you'll feel more at home with ice cubes clinking in your glass. The after-work happy hour can be a mob scene, so do yourself a favor and hold out for the 10 pm-to-midnight special, when you can eat oysters with your bourbon and ginger on a shoestring. All in all, this is the most accessible bar in the chi-chi genre.

532 SE GRAND AVE., 238-6996.
OPEN DAILY. BEER, WINE AND LIQUOR.

VERITABLE QUANDARY
The VQ looks formal from the street but once tucked into a booth or perched on a swivel stool inside, the place is as comfortable as Cheers appeared to be. Like the fabled TV bar, VQ has brick walls, a gleaming wooden bar, high-backed booths and an old-school atmosphere. Though not as glib, the wait staff is more courteous than Carla and less bumbling than Diane; you'll never wait long for a drink or meal. There is only one menu for both the dining room and bar, but it boasts elegant light fare for those with small appetites and wallets. The spinach salad is exquisite: Deep green leaves are slightly wilted by a handful of grilled apple slices and supplemented with filberts and peppered chèvre, and made slippery by a subtle vinaigrette ($5, $8 for a large). In terms of beer, VQ stocks all the usual suspects, which undoubtedly taste better while seated on the quaint patio. A weird side note: A corral of video poker machines are hidden in a little dark room, as if to say, "Gambling is an impure addiction, but we're not adverse to taking your money."

1220 SW 1ST AVE., 227-7342.
OPEN DAILY. BEER, WINE AND LIQUOR.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

feedback site map search site personals classified webxtra culture news search site play dish screen visual arts music performance feature