Blue Plate Navigator: happy (hour) meals | cartesian geography search listing alphabetically by restaurant name: a | b | c | d | e | f | g | h | i | j | k | l | m | n | p | r | s | t FELLINI The big misconception surrounding Fellini is that--with its staff and clientele of unclean hipsters and facially perforated punks--the food can't be any good. Surprise!Fellini offers some of the yummiest food for your tummy at a price even a musician can afford, and the urban-chic artwork won't make gourmets feel like they're slumming. On a recent visit, a New York steak special was deliciously crispy on the outside and juicy inside, while the sweet sautéed mushrooms and bulbous potato added a touch of healthiness. The Alf Chicken rocked with penne, rosemary cream sauce and perfectly spiced slivers of meat. True masochists go for Fernando's Heart Stopper (two 1/3-pound burgers with cheese, bacon and fries), and veggie-heads like the Happy Times platter (mushrooms, onions and pecans with cream sauce on grilled polenta). (JG) 125 NW 6TH AVE., 243-2120. 11:30 AM-2:30 AM MONDAYS-THURSDAYS, 11:30 AM-3 AM FRIDAYS, 5 PM-3 AM SATURDAYS, 5 PM-2:30 AM SUNDAYS. FLYING PIE PIZZERIA Roger Ebert, Harry Carey, Wrigley Field, a Portland pizzeria--yes, all these things do go together.Flying Pie Pizzeria could be as close as Portland gets to the home of the Cubs and Bears.From piped-in blues to red leather booths and team pennants lining the walls, this pie palace pulls off a Windy City tribute, while keeping certain West Coast touches. The Presto! pizza ($10.85 for a 12-inch pie) layers feta cheese and spinach among artichoke hearts, black olives, roasted red peppers and pesto sauce. The joint does a nice, fresh pie-and-salad bar ($3 for one plate, $4.25 for all you can eat), and features large subs with cute names like Auntie T's and De-Lite-Ful for under $5. There truly is something for every pizza-lover at Flying Pie; among its 30-plus toppings are the usual suspects--pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms--and the-not-so-usual--smoked oysters, pastrami, and a non-dairy cheese called Soy-Sation. Crusts come Sicilian-style (thick) and New York-style (thin). This is one of the few spots in town that seems to understand the nuanced pleasures of pie. (MM) 7804 SE STARK ST., 254-2016. 11 AM-10 PM SUNDAYS-THURSDAYS 11 AM-11 PM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS.   Kelly Hamby FONG CHONG Spending an hour at Fong Chong, possibly home to the best dim sum in town, is a fully realized sensory experience. It starts with the click-clack of metal carts containing tasty Chinese appetizers pushed around the tables by super-unfriendly waiters (and it's not just the language barrier). It continues when the cart stops at your table. Stare lovingly at the beautiful array of strangely textured delicacies (most lovely looking are the translucent shrimp balls and marshmallow-like steamed buns). Don't ask what things are, as the staff probably won't tell you, but do be adventurous when choosing from the cart--the worst thing that can happen is that you'll end up with duck feet. Do try the floppy rice noodle with its squishy physique that goes down like oysters, and the normy gai, a moist stew of chicken, pork, sausages, mushrooms and bamboo shoots wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf. Since most items are just $2 a plate, you really can't go wrong here. (CBB) 301-309 NW 4TH AVE., 220-0235. DIM SUM SERVED 10:30 AM-3 PM DAILY.     FOOTHILL BROILER Tucked in among all the chi-chi tchotchke stores and pan-fusion restaurants of Northwest Portland, Foothill Broiler offers a welcome alternative to foo-fooville.With the no-frills, bright-orange charm of a high-school cafeteria, Foothill Broiler turns out hearty cheeseburgers, meatloaf sandwiches and BLTs for less than $4.Breakfast comes even cheaper. Hard-boiled eggs (50 cents each), granola ($2.00) or quiche ($2.50) will fill you up without emptying your pockets. This is the place to grab a quick dinner before strolling over to Cinema 21. Or share a shake with two straws and a slice of pie after the flick. All pies ($2.25 a slice, $12 for the whole thing, à la mode for a mere 50 cents more) are homemade; the rhubarb is especially delicious. Where else but at this 30-plus-year-old establishment can you order asparagus to go at 20 cents a spear? If you're still not convinced of Foothill Broiler's bossness, I've got two words: fixins bar. (MM) 33 NW 23RD PLACE, 223-0287. 7 AM-9 PM MONDAYS-SATURDAYS. CLOSED SUNDAYS. FOTI'S GREEK DELI Foti's is the essence of quirk. On the one hand it offers olive oils; rose petal, walnut and quince conserves; a large selection of retsina; sweet or savory Greek kashi; and pistachios from the owner's family farm. On the other, its a quickie mart that caters to the malt-liquor-and-rolling-paper crowd. The eating area is separated from the rest of the place by a pony wall.The self-serve deli offers two menus: Greek (stuffed grape leaves, moussaka, a rather limp spanakopita) and American (burgers, Reubens, large cold-cut deli sandwiches and fried chicken).The ambience--blinding lights, concrete floors painted shiny battleship gray and colonial dinettes covered in blue-and-white-checked oil cloths--hardly makes this dateville. But an addiction to spicy Greek fries with tzatziki or pita stuffed with souvlaki --or Colt 45--keeps 'em coming. (JTW) 1740 E BURNSIDE ST., 232-0274. 10 AM-7 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY. FRESCHI'S JUICE BAR Freschi's owner, Tina Sirianni, brings a little sun-ripened island flavor to the Northwest. Though the cafe doesn't exactly hum with exotic flair, it does nourish customers with fare not often found in Portland juice bars.Crêpes are Freschi's specialty, so bypass the beet juice and wheatgrass blends (they're medicine, not food!) and cozy up to something so very French.Dessert crêpe varieties range from classic--Nutella with orange zest and confectioner's sugar--to contrived: strawberry cheesecake with the ever-present powdered sugar. Marzipan junkies will delight in finding their oft-ignored treat commingling with amaretto, pear and cream. A recent all-day special featured a breakfast crêpe lightly rolled with egg, spinach, garlic and Gruyère cheese. Other savory choices include basil, tomato, feta and mozzarella, and smoked salmon spiked with capers. If you are into juice, you'll be able to cure whatever ails you with a fresh-squeezed potion from the lab. The yummiest beverages are the smoothies--try the Florence Drift, a dreamy concoction of orange, pineapple, banana, berries and yogurt. A few salads and gelato round out the menu, but you may not always get what you expect. The house salad--a mixture of strawberries, feta, walnuts and iceberg lettuce--sounds seductively summery; unfortunately, the strawberries aren't fresh but rather a saccharine compote. (CM) 3553 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 231-7440. 9 AM-5 PM DAILY. CLOSED MONDAY. FULLER'S COFFEE SHOP A long time ago, boys and girls, what we now call cafes and espresso bars were known as coffee shops. In those unpretentious times, folks used to gather at a counter and eat pancakes, sandwiches, sloppy joes and all sorts of other things you could order in English. The working man could sit and read the morning paper elbow-to-elbow with some fella in a suit. Welcome to Fuller's, where a slice of marionberry pie is as good as a madeleine for inspiring a remembrance of things past. There's a taste of lost time in this place, whose ample windows and corner location recall a similar spot in an Edward Hopper painting. But whereas the stock image of the classic diner resembles a museum piece with food, waitresses and clientele frozen in time, Fuller's stays fresh and alive. It's old-style but Oregon-style, as the rhyme on the menu would suggest: "Our motto is expressed by a stock of wheat: 'Good Food, Good Bread, A Good Place to Eat!'" Sure, there's the standard artery-freezing cookery here--pigs in blankets, fried seafood--but there are also plenty of fresh ingredients; look for lots of strawberry dishes in season. The coffee shop's location on the fringes of the Pearl District, where lofts lie cheek to jowl with warehouses, gives it a mix of clientele you rarely find anywhere these days. (JMcQ) 136 NW 9TH AVE., 222-5608. 6 AM-4 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 7 AM-2 PM SATURDAY. GERALDI'S ITALIAN EATING PLACE In a city crammed with so-called sandwich shops that serve up thin slivers of low-grade cold-cuts on lame-ass buns, Geraldi's is a stunning oasis. The hulking hot and cold sandwich are served on the most superb lowbrow rolls in town--crusty and cantankerous on the outside, pillowy and inviting on the inside.The pesto veggie, which can be ordered hot or cold, comes slathered with a basil sauce and fully loaded with artichoke hearts, feta, tomato, lettuce and vinaigrette. Meat lovers shouldn't skip the N.Y. meatball hero, hefty with colossal orbs, melted mozzarella and a tangy red sauce. Geraldi's home-style spaghetti and ravioli meals are perfect for nights when you want a hot dinner but don't want to cook. All this love for under $6. (CBB) 518 SW 4TH AVE., 224-1865; BEAVERTON MALL, 3205 SW CEDAR HILLS BLVD., 643-7200; 10000 SW CANYON ROAD, BEAVERTON, 297-2590; 2118 NW GLISAN AVE., 224-7919; 6175 SW LOMBARD ROAD, BEAVERTON, 643-8377. CALL FOR HOURS. GIANT DRIVE INN From a distance, Giant Drive Inn's sign appears to feature the image of a caveman with an enormous stomach made out of hamburger. Really, the friendly behemoth is just extending, with Gargantuan hands, a very large burger for your enjoyment. Consider the sign a foretelling:Giant's burgers are the biggest (and perhaps the best) this reviewer has had in some time. Indeed, it is impossible to leave the small, sparsely decorated restaurant without feeling as though you've just swallowed a small, albeit very tasty, bowling ball.Though it also serves hot dogs ($2.50) and corn dogs ($1.50), Giant is known for its large, messy hamburgers of all sorts. The avocado burger ($3.95) comes gushing with Swiss cheese, guacamole, bacon, tomato, lettuce, mayonnaise and onion on a soft roll. The Alec burger ($3.25) is a delightfully sloppy munificence, including grilled onions, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and mustard, all served on a French roll. For the ambitious, Giant presents the Filler. Two beef patties, two pieces of bacon, cheddar cheese, sliced ham, one large egg, a kosher dill pickle, onion, tomato and lettuce are miraculously stacked within a sesame seed bun; the Filler is not for the faint of heart. (MM) 15840 BOONES FERRY ROAD, LAKE OSWEGO, 636-0255. 10 AM-10 PM MONDAYS-SATURDAYS. 10 AM-9 PM SUNDAYS. GOLDEN HORSE Some of the best cooks in the city are turning out unusual and delicious Cantonese meals behind the bright lights and banal decor of this Chinatown corner restaurant. The familiar dishes at Golden Horse make for a happy experience, but the adventurous choices will take you to culinary nirvana. Chewy jellyfish and peppery smoked pork leg combine in a daring starter that begs to be followed by the steamed whole fish showered with scallions and julienned ginger, a great southern classic. If you're still in an oceanic mood, nothing can match a whole Dungeness crab. Choose either the more common preparation with black bean sauce or, if you passed on the whole fish, the variation with ginger and green onions. The ceramic pot cooking style--dishes are baked and served in what is essentially a small casserole pan--is hearty and soul-satisfying. Two beef dishes score high: bitter-melon beef, which has a slightly sour flavor that cuts the richness of the meat, and orange beef, with gnarly chunks of meat, cloves, star anise and orange sautéed to an almost candied concentration. If you are tempted by the latter, plan ahead: The orange beef must be ordered in advance. You're probably full by now, but it would be a shame to miss out on the best Peking duck in town. (RP) 238 NW 4TH AVE., 228-1688. 11 AM-MIDNIGHT DAILY. GOLDEN JADE Hurrah for the standards. Golden Jade does them just right. This immaculate Chinese restaurant specializing in Mandarin, Szechuan, Hunan and Cantonese dishes is not the stop for exotic fare, but it's just the place to visit if you want spring rolls that aren't the least bit greasy and chow mein that's hearty and flavorful.Golden Jade seems to do more take-out than sit-down business, and it's quick in turning around a to-go order. The chicken with tangy sauce is outstanding--it comes with chunks of white meat and a sweet 'n' spicy gravy. This same great tangy base is available with a variety of meat and vegetable selections. If you're smart, you'll ask for an order of extra plump pot stickers. (CBB) 3104 SE BELMONT AVE., 232-9844. 11:30 AM-10 PM SUNDAYS-FRIDAYS, 4 PM-10 PM SATURDAYS. GOOD DOG/ BAD DOG As long as you're the dog that's doing the eating, this is one place where you can be happy that it's a dog-eat-dog world. This small downtown sausage joint is misnamed; the folks behind it might have used the title of Barbara Woodhouse's obedience manual, No Bad Dogs. Made fresh on the premises, these are some right delicious links--and at a third of a pound apiece, they're substantial, too. The offerings range from mild to wild. On the one hand, there are able renditions of classics that won't bite back: bratwurst, kielbasa, British bangers and sweet Italians. On the other are a potent garlic sausage, a hot Italian and an even hotter Magma Dog. This last one comes in an extra-punishing version with grilled jalapeños and habañeros: the Face Melter.One bite and you feel as if you've just run into a hundred tiny Rottweilers, and your mouth is the mailman.You can buy raw links for grilling at home, but the sizzle and bustle make Good Dog/Bad Dog a great place to stop in for lunch. Pull up a chair, give your dogs a rest and sink your canines into one of these tasty pups. (JMcQ) 708 SW ALDER ST., 222-3410. 11 AM-7 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, NOON-5 PM SUNDAY. GRAND CENTRAL BAKING COMPANY Grand Central Baking is well known for its perfect rustic breads--potato-rosemary, como, yeasted corn--but its starch specialists are equally concerned with what goes between two slices. Lucky workers on Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard and Northeast Broadway get to enjoy Grand Central's delicious and simple lunches: sandwiches of roasted chicken and apple-cranberry chutney; just-right egg salad; black forest ham and Swiss. Soups and "tostis"--grilled cheese combinations such as caramelized onions, chutney and cheddar--warm bellies on raw afternoons.While the sandwiches are dramatically different from regular deli fare, the prices don't reflect gourmet gastronomy.Grand Central also dispenses tempting cakes, muffins and pastries. Breakfast options (available only at the Broadway location) include homemade granola with yogurt and French toast. (CM) 1444 NE WEIDLER ST., 288-1614; 7 AM-9 PM DAILY; 2230 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 232-0575. 7 AM-7 PM MONDAYS-FRIDAYS, 7 AM-6 PM SATURDAYS-SUNDAYS. HAPPY GARDEN For good Chinese food and a near-perfect example of late '50s diner architecture, check out the Happy Garden Chinese restaurant. The layout is a stunner, and almost every table is a booth. The menu lists Chinese standards--sweet and sour pork, Szechwan chicken, moo shu chicken and twice-cooked pork--and some not-so-common Chinese delights, such as seaweed soup and cold jellyfish.The paper-wrapped chicken is a simple but delicious appetizer: Tightly wrapped pieces of foil reveal very moist and perfectly salted pieces of chicken.The fried shrimp is another winner, especially if you like your shrimp loaded with the strong flavor nature intended. The kung pao chicken lacks heat and is only passably good, but don't fail to order the fabulous broccoli with hot garlic sauce--it's spiced with a liberal amount of garlic and just a hint of ginger. Spectacular. (FF) 2367 SE 122ND AVE., 252-3575. 11:30 AM-10 PM TUESDAYS-THURSDAYS, 11:30 AM-10:30 PM FRIDAYS, NOON-10 PM SATURDAYS AND SUNDAYS. HOLMAN'S Established more than 60 years ago, Holman's is a Portland institution. The restaurant has wide appeal for a number of reasons: an extensive menu of standard American fare, a full bar, comfortable booths, decent service and, of course, the "Meal Wheel."If you match up the red arrows on this contraption with one spin, your meal is on the house.The menu is definitely on the meaty side--on a recent visit every special was beef-related--but the wide range of dishes ensures there's something for the vegetarian at any time of the day or night. Prices are fairly reasonable. The Quick-Starter breakfast, for example--two eggs, bacon or links, hash browns and toast--is under four bucks. Steak and seafood dishes, are a little costlier, but the many sandwiches and burgers are affordable, as are reliable plates like fish and chips. For those in search of late-night food and drinks in the Southeast, this is the place. (JM) 15 SE 28TH AVE., 231-1093. 7 AM-2:30 AM SUNDAY-THURSDAY, OPEN ALL NIGHT FRIDAY-SATURDAY. HORN OF AFRICA Despite what you may have read elsewhere, this is not an Ethiopian restaurant.Somalia, Kenya and Djibouti share the eponymous geography of Africa's east coast with the former kingdom of Abyssinia, and the food served at this outpost of a little-known culture reflects flavors from the entire region.While Ethiopian food uses of cumin and coriander, Somalis prefer nutmeg, bay leaf and dried lemon, and that's what creates the beguiling aroma of lukkuu akhaawi. Chunks of boned chicken are rubbed with spices, grilled and served with stewed red lentils, curried vegetables and saffron rice. The rice itself is a Somali touch, but you can cross cultures with an order of Ethiopian spongy flatbread (commonly known as injera, but here called biddeena) for only a dollar. Beef and lamb undergo similar but subtly different flavoring. Several vegetarian options are available, including fasouliya, a bean dish from Djibouti that combines white beans with olive oil, onion, cilantro, lemon, curry, cumin and coriander. Unlike most of the Ethiopian food served in Portland, these dishes are not particularly fiery. If you like it hot, ask for a bit of chutney, here a thin blend of cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, vinegar and spices. (JD) 3939 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. BLVD., 331-9844. 11 AM-9 PM TUESDAYS-FRIDAYS, 5-10 PM SATURDAYS. CLOSED SUNDAYS-MONDAYS.   HOYT ST. CAFE After Ron Baldwin moved up from San Francisco to open Paragon in the Pearl District, he went looking for a place to call his own. He didn't have to go far. His Hoyt St. Cafe is just a block away, and it's a welcome addition to the neighborhood. With this stretch of Northwest Hoyt Street getting more hoity-toity all the time, it's refreshing to find an eatery where you can still get decent meals at reasonably low prices. Breakfast, served from 7 am to 3 pm, covers the basics--eggs, breads, fruit--with touches of Mexico, Europe and the Northwest. For a savory start, you can opt for smoked salmon or home fries, or design your own generous omelette. If you're feeling more indulgent, there's granola, Belgian waffle and sinful pain de mie--a batter-dipped brioche with bananas, walnuts, lemon cream and maple syrup. A roasted turkey soup and several salads lead off the lunch menu, which also includes several sandwiches that are substantial but not heavy; fresh ingredients and a light touch are the rule here. The cafe's corner location is bright and quiet, so if you come in for breakfast, you'll probably want to linger. The kitchen has recently begun serving dinner late in the week, so what the hell--call in sick and make a day of it. (JMcQ) 1131 NW HOYT ST., 226-3451. 7 AM-3 PM DAILY, 5 PM-10 PM THURSDAY-SATURDAY. Kelley Hamby     IRON HORSE RESTAURANT Iron Horse Restaurant goes for a train theme: On its menu, train tracks disappear into a tunnel. The interior feels like an old, small-town station, and a wood-burning stove shaped like an engine is plopped in the middle of the main dining room. It should be no surprise then, that a meal here, where portions bulge over the corners of the plates, leaves one spent, as though having passed the afternoon shoveling coal to stoke a locomotive.The beef burrito ($8.95 with beans and rice) is a lavish thing about the size of Tom Hanks' neck. It's stuffed with meat and vegetables, and red sauce and cheese are seemingly applied with a fire hose.The Chicken Belize tostada is more elegant but no less grand. Slow-cooked and flavored with orange, garlic, oregano and cinnamon, this dish is an interesting, successful twist on Mexican cuisine. Iron Horse also makes and sells its own jalapeño and habañero sauces ($3.95 each). The margaritas ($4.50 for the house margarita), served in a pint glass, are as impressive in size as the food. (MM) 6034 SE MILWAUKIE AVE., 232-1826. 11 AM-10 PM TUESDAYS-THURSDAYS, 11 AM-11 PM FRIDAYS-SATURDAYS, NOON-10 PM SUNDAYS. CLOSED MONDAYS. J&M CAFE I can't believe it took me as long as it did to discover J&M Cafe. I'd heard good things about the breakfasts and sandwiches, but the cafe is just far enough inside the lackluster industrial area between Southeast Morrison and Burnside streets to make it easy to miss. Seek it out. Whether you raged or rested the night before, breakfast at J&M is a savory way to wake up. The high-ceilinged, airy interior is as comforting to the nerves as the carefully prepared dishes are to an empty stomach. The French toast (with real maple syrup, no less) will recall any luscious dreams you've had recently; it positively melts in your mouth. Dig into the garden scramble (three eggs with garlic, mushrooms, greens and leeks for $5.95) for a nutrient-packed start to your day. If you skipped dinner the night before, you can feast on the breakfast burrito, heavy with black beans; the potatoes, a cheesy pile with salsa and sour cream; or J&M's signature platter of bacon and eggs smothered with fontina, cheddar and Parmesan. A few morning options are served all day--the entire breakfast menu is served all day on the weekends--to augment the smaller lunch menu. Lunch is a fairly standard affair with all the staples (hamburger, grilled cheese, roasted turkey) and a more unusual wilted spinach salad. (CM) 537 SE ASH ST., 230-0463. 7:30 AM-2:30 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 8 AM-2 PM SATURDAY-SUNDAY. JARRA'S My first experience at Jarra's was a trial by fire--mouth aflame, eyes tearing and consciousness faltering as my insane friend Eric urged, "No water! Embrace the pain!" And yet I kept going back because the food was so good. Maybe I've just gotten tougher since then; like women and drink, Jarra's doesn't make me cry anymore. Then again, maybe there's just a little less cayenne in the doro wat--but there's still plenty of cumin, curry, coriander and all the other tantalizing spices that define Ethiopian food. In addition to the usual roundup of stewed beef, lamb, chicken and lentil dishes in hot and mild sauces, Jarra's offers several combination dishes as well as kitfo, Ethiopian steak tartare. All dishes come with eyeb (cottage cheese) to cool and revivify your mouth. Go easy on the injera, the crêpe-like bread you use to scoop up your dinner--it's like a thick sponge, and it can weigh mighty heavy.If you're timid of palate, eat with caution; this stuff is still plenty spicy, and it can make for a memorable experience.(JMcQ) 1435 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 230-8990. 5-10 PM TUESDAY-SATURDAY. JUNIOR'S The health-food revolution must have completely passed this interesting Southeast Portland spot by. That's not to say you'll be inundated with excess grease here, the customers' Elliott Smith hairdos notwithstanding.What you will find are devil-may-care breakfast and lunch dishes made with heart-stopping ingredients.Take Junior's version of the potato, for example. Here, the innocent spud is made gloriously gooey in four different dishes, with the melted cheese of your choice. As a token nod to Portland health nuts, a vegan version is also on the menu. The eggs are even better, loaded not only with cheese but meat, as well. For lunch, there are BLTs and pork loin and prosciutto sandwiches, along with soups and salads. With an atmosphere best described as diner-meets-trendy-nightspot and prices hovering around $5, the appeal is obvious. (MO) 1742 SE 12TH AVE., 235-5474. 8AM-3PM WEDNESDAY-SUNDAY. KAY'S BAR AND GRILL People who eat and drink at Kay's aren't looking for themselves--they pretty much know who they are. Whoever upholstered the intimate yet profoundly synthetic booths must have slaughtered a whole herd of naugas. This Westmoreland landmark is proudly utilitarian: There are more poker machines than windows, and only two brews on tap--Bud and Widmer Hefeweizen.Kay's noirish atmosphere and blue-collar tunes make you want to slam down a couple of boilermakers and head home with your waitress--or waiter.Just don't leave before you eat; the kitchen delivers timeless food at good value. The 13-item bar menu ranges from "Wings of Fire" to clam bits, with most choices under four bucks. The regular menu is meat-heavy, but the halibut and chips, with its big chunks of tender fish and perfect fries, is as good as you'll find. Measured on such standards as shrimp cocktail, navy bean soup and homemade boysenberry pie, Kay's excels. It's the sort of place where a waitress will, without prompting, take food back that she doesn't think is prepared properly. You may not be able to see inside Kay's from the street, but once you sit down, you won't want to leave. (NJ) 6903 SE MILWAUKIE, 232-4447. 9 AM-2:30 PM MONDAYS-FRIDAYS. 10 AM-2:30 PM SATURDAYS-SUNDAYS. LA BUCA All it takes is a simple lunch to prove that Italian culture is vastly superior to ours. At any of a bazillion spots in Italy's cities and towns, you can get an excellent sandwich--with porcini, say, or prosciutto--and a glass of good wine for three or four bucks. Where did we go wrong? There's no place around here where you can quite match that, but La Buca comes as close as you can get. The small and sparsely appointed restaurant serves panini, salads and pasta dishes at extremely reasonable prices, and what's more, they're really good. The sauces that come atop spaghetti, penne and linguine are rich and flavorful; you'd be hard pressed to find better puttanesca around town, especially for under five bucks. They don't cut corners here--top-notch ingredients are the rule, and you get the sense that it's the spirit of the enterprise, not the bottom line, that guides the kitchen. La Buca is the rare restaurant that doesn't gouge its customers by overpricing wine.You can get a better glass of red here for $3.25 than at more upscale places that charge twice that, and a bottle of the same is an unheard-of $10.Portland has a long way to go before its Italian-restaurant scene approaches that of San Francisco's North Beach, let alone Italy's, but more places like this would be a step in the right direction. (JMcQ) 2309 NW KEARNEY ST., 279-8040. 11:30 AM-9 PM MONDAY-WEDNESDAY, 11:30 AM-10 PM THURSDAY-FRIDAY, NOON-10 PM SATURDAY, 5-9 PM SUNDAY. LA CALACA COMELONA The name means "the Hungry Skeleton," which refers to the Day of the Dead decor you'll find here, not the way you'll feel on leaving this informal, morbidly charming Mexican cantina. Virtually everything is homemade, including the tortillas and an array of terrific sauces. The cooking is a labor of love for the chef, whose Central Mexican roots provide plenty of inspiration, especially evident in her use of corn and other grains, avocados and chilies. No burritos here, but thick masa tortillas are crammed and dripping with juicy meats (don't miss the pork and pineapple version). Be sure to have the nopales salad, a mixture of cold sliced cactus pods, cilantro, lime, serrano chili, and snowy Mexican cheese. Chili negro chicken is tawny, and pickled peppers and purple onions enhance its complex flavoring. Authenticity is the earmark of La Calaca Comelona. Quesadillas are toasted on a comal (cast-iron grill) and mounded with imported Mexican cheese. Even ordinary shrimp cocktail is braced with cilantro and cucumbers. At this writing no beer or wine is available, but you can, in keeping with the spirit of the place, try a "Vampiro," a blood-red concoction featuring beet, carrot, celery and pineapple juices--not a smoothie but a health-giving toast to mortality. (RP) 1408 SE 12TH AVE., 239-9675. 11 AM-9 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-10 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY. LA CRUDA Don't head to this kitschy bar and eatery with a hankering for authentic Mexican food, because you won't find it. What you will find are fresh, filling and inexpensive meals--not to mention an impressive collection of Schlitz paraphernalia. The taco plates (around $5) are worthwhile, with meat, a veggie medley or tofu on your choice of tortillas, plus sides of rice, whole pinto beans and salad. A plate of rice, beans, tortillas and salad is only $2.75, allowing you to construct fresh tacos at Taco Bell prices. (Dinner prices are slightly higher and portions commensurately bigger.) Sadly, options are very limited after 10 pm. Most of the food lacks spice, but various fresh salsas offer salvation from blandness.Everything here tastes best on a summer day with a slushy margarita in hand.(LB) 2500 SE CLINTON ST., 233-0745. 11 AM-2:30 AM MONDAY-FRIDAY, 9 AM-2:30 AM SATURDAY-SUNDAY. LANAI CAFE Lanai Cafe has been serving fine Vietnamese cuisine for 14 years.This tiny establishment was once a living room, and it has a lived-in, homey feel to it; the owner's friendliness makes even newcomers feel like regulars.There are over 90 items on the menu, but the emphasis is on noodle soups and seafood. I suggest starting your meal with an order of salad rolls, which are served with a thick, delicious peanut sauce. After that, move on to a steaming bowl of Pho (noodle soup). Lanai's Pho is less heavily garnished than many around town, but the delicately sweet broth is outstanding and doesn't need doctoring up. It comes with your choice of diced chicken breast, chicken meat balls or spicy meat balls. It's hard to decorate soup, but the kitchen's flair for presentation is apparent in other dishes such as lemon grass chicken, an aesthetically appealing dish flavored with a rich sauce of lemon grass and fresh orange. Situated just a few blocks from the more bustling stretch of Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard, Lanai is the place for out-of-this-world Vietnamese food at prices that don't even approach the stratosphere. (FF) 3145 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 239-4857. 11 AM-9:30 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11 AM-10 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY. LA SIRENITA Taqueria devotees in Northeast Portland regularly confront a conundrum as difficult to solve as the nature of being or the meaning of life: Which is better, La Sirenita or Mi Ranchito? They're practically next-door neighbors (see Mi Ranchito listing), and they both serve authentic Mexican food at American fast-food prices. La Sirenita, which has recently had a little sprucing up but is still defiantly funky, tends to attract more of the neighborhood's burgeoning slacker population, though both have a devoted Hispanic clientele. La Sirenita's taco fillings tend to be a little moister and more plentiful than those of its neighbors, with less cilantro but with added fresh tomatoes; neither is 100 percent consistent, though, so one might have to call it a draw.It's hard to resist the tacos and burritos at La Sirenita--you can't eat this well this cheaply at very many places. But splurge once in a while on some of the seafood dishes (the name does mean "Little Mermaid," after all).One of the best items on the entire menu is the Seven Seas Soup, a spicy concoction of fish and shellfish. And as for the choice between this place and its neighbor, perhaps it's best just to alternate--then you won't miss out on great food at either. (JMcQ) 2817 NE ALBERTA ST., 335-8283. 10 AM-9 PM DAILY. LAURELTHIRST PUBLIC HOUSE The LaurelThirst's food shares a philosophy with the rootsy music played on its intimate stage: It's hearty, American and original. Tasty vegetarian options abound inside these exposed-brick walls: Dare to eat an entire "cannonball-o-beans," a large and legendary toasted bread bowl filled with flavorful bean soup and topped with Jack cheese and onions. The homemade sunflower-based veggie burger, the biggest and tastiest in town, comes with chips and a garlicky dill pickle for $4.75 (add Swiss and sautéed mushrooms for a mere 75 cents). Carnivores enjoy filling turkey sandwiches and comfort foods like chicken chili. There's an impressive selection of fine brews on tap to wash it all down. The pool room offers an escape for diners seeking quieter digs when bands play, and decks of Trivial Pursuit cards are also on hand. People-watching adds to the entertainment value of this lively bohemian mainstay. (Note that there's sometimes a cover charge, usually $3-$5, after 9 pm Wednesday through Sunday). (LB) 2958 NE GLISAN ST., 232-1504. 9 AM-1:30 AM DAILY. LITTLE MEXICO The owners of Little Mexico, who hail from Guatemala, hedged their bets on what would sell in Portland and went with a mainly Mexican menu of burritos, tamales, enchiladas, chimichangas, margaritas and Mexican beers.However, the menu boasts a page of capably prepared Guatemalan dinners such as jocon (chicken in green tomato sauce), hilachas (shredded beef cooked with root vegetables and tomatoes) and pache (peppery mashed potatoes stuffed with chicken and salsa, steamed in a banana leaf). Somewhere along the line, turkey entered Guatemalan cuisine: Estofado de pavo is turkey cooked in a grilled tomato, onion, garlic and pepper sauce, and kaquik is a nourishing thin soup of turkey, cilantro, onions and oregano. It's served with a side of rice that, like many of Little Mexico's menu items, has spent a good part of the day on the steam table. Eschewing Guatemala's fabulous textile tradition--except for the bright cafe curtains--Little Mexico is dark, festooned with a few out-of-control philodendrons and decorated with an abundance of Tijuana souvenir kitsch. (JTW) 5827 E BURNSIDE ST., 231-6618. 11 AM-10 PM DAILY. LITTLE WING CAFE & BAKERY Considering how shamelessly upscale the restaurant scene in the Pearl District has become, Little Wing is a dinosaur, a reminder of a simpler time when actual artists roamed this part of the earth.The simply furnished cafe features a rotating selection of art on its painted brick walls, making the experience both arty and earthy at the same time. What it does share with its more toney neighbors is culinary skill, which is focused here on sandwiches and light entrees. The marinated eggplant sandwich is excellent, and it's even more so with hummus, lively and full of smoky flavor. Soups and salads are also fine; try Steve's Salad, a delicious mix of greens, turkey breast, albacore tuna and artichoke hearts--it's sure to satisfy any omnivore. Little Wing now offers dinners, but at a slightly higher premium. (MG) 529 NW 13TH AVE., 228-3101. 11:30 AM-4 PM MONDAY, 11:30 AM-9 PM TUESDAY-THURSDAY, 11:30 AM-10 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY. LOW BROW LOUNGE How rare the eatery that features Tater Tots on its menu--and that's a shame, because the golden-brown potato snacks are the perfect accompaniment to a late-night beer. The people at the Low Brow Lounge are thankfully aware of this, and they offer a choice of fries or Tots with their delicious sandwiches. The roasted pork loin is one of the best of these, and the grilled salmon is also a standout. Entrees are few but hearty, especially the hot turkey plate. At $7, the substantial dish is served with garlic mashed potatoes and mapled green beans. For vegetarians the options are limited, although you could do worse than the mac and cheese, which comes with the same sides as the other entrees. If you're going for a salad, try the house dressing, a sweetish mango vinaigrette with a hint of citrus. On top of its small but decent range of well-prepared food, the Low Brow offers a full bar. The suitably dark setting is comfortable, though it can get a little too smoky at times, and the service is friendly and helpful. (JM) 1036 NW HOYT ST., 226-0200. 11:30 AM-2:30 AM MONDAY-SATURDAY. LUCKY LABRADOR BREW PUB Lucky Lab is in many ways the quintessential brew pub. It's thoroughly unpretentious--a cavernous converted warehouse with a sea of wood-topped tables, scores of mismatched wooden chairs and a few dog-themed decorations sparsely adorning the wall. The whole place looks as though it were furnished for about a hundred bucks, but it's perfectly comfortable. A variety of ales rotates through the taps, and the people who serve them generally look as if they spend their weekends on snowboards or mountain bikes. Accompanying the brews are many good sandwiches, both meaty and meatless, including a filling stout sausage sandwich with sautéed green peppers and onions. There's also a number of sides (among them bread with excellent hummus), but the most popular item on the menu is the bento. It comes in both chicken and veggie versions with either sweet chili pepper sauce or, even better, peanut curry. As far as many of the Lab's customers are concerned, there's hardly any need for the rest of the menu. These big chunks of chicken and veggies drenched with spicy curry are as satisfying an accompaniment to a cool pint as a person could want. (JMcQ) 915 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 236-3555. 11 AM-MIDNIGHT MONDAY-SATURDAY, 1-11 PM SUNDAY. LULU'S DINER It's no secret that Portland is lacking when it comes to old-fashioned '50s diners, and LuLu's tries to fill that gap. It misses the target in authenticity (the decor ranges too far afield both temporally and geographically) and price (a two-egg and meat breakfast should top out around $5, and mac and cheese should never cost $8.95), but any new option in town is welcome. For breakfast, the Brooklyn omelette ($6.75) is a smooth, filling combo of chicken, sour cream and cheese. The triple-decker turkey club with fries ($6.25) will satisfy you for lunch.Of course, the true test of any diner is the milkshake: The sweet but not overly thick chocolate shake ($3.50) rates a B+.(JG) 3200 SE MILWAUKIE BLVD., 234-5858. 7 AM-10:30 PM TUESDAY-THURSDAY, 7 AM-11 PM FRIDAY, 9 AM-11 PM SATURDAY, 9 AM-3 PM SUNDAY. MAD HATTER LOUNGE Thanks to parent restaurant the Rabbit Hole, theMad Hatter Lounge has some of the most sophisticated pub food in town. Forget about Buffalo wings and artichoke-spinach dip. The Mad Hatter sates snackers with Greek olive tapenade, chiles rellenos fried in wonton wrappers and spiced with a green chili stew, and a meat antipasto served with chipotle aioli (each for $5-$7). And that's just the warm-up. This jazzy basement joint boasts salads--spinach with mandarin oranges and sweet onion dressing is just the thing after too many cigarettes--and sandwiches such as kielbasa and tuna steak. Last year, the establishment rebuilt its bar and added cocktails to its beer and wine list, but it's still a small place. The Mad Hatter has a relaxed vibe when there's a lull in the live music, but when bands (anything from hippie outfits to crotchety jazz trios) play, it's really freaking loud. Don't run for cover without trying the sweet potato fries--huge slabs lightly breaded to glorious, greasy perfection. (CM) 203 SE GRAND AVE., 231-2925. 11 AM-1 AM MONDAY-FRIDAY. 10 AM-2 AM SATURDAY-SUNDAY. MAMA'S CORNER CAFE Fusion anything is all the rage these days, but Mama's Corner Cafe combines regions so unself-consciously there's nothing trendy about it.Mama's crosses continents by offering a deeply authentic borscht on the menu alongside deeply authentic patty melts.The little shack on Southeast Stark Street is run by Pavel and Olga Shavlovsky. It always seems to be packed with folks taking advantage of the all-day breakfasts (this is one of the few places in town where you can get true hash browns), milkshakes and awesome, thick burgers. If you have a yen for borscht (and who doesn't?), be aware that this tangy cabbage soup is not available on Fridays and Saturdays. (CBB) 14035 SE STARK ST., 257-2753. 7 AM-3 PM DAILY. CLOSED SUNDAY. MANILA'S BEST While there's no truth to the rumor that the New Carissa's Filipino crew rammed the ship into the Oregon coast so they could eat at Manila's Best, the food here is well worth traveling for. You may not be at all acquainted with the cuisine of the Philippines, but any confusion you feel about menu items will be quickly dispelled by the large glossy pictures of each dish on the wall. To start, try the fresh lumpia, the Filipino version of spring rolls. Moving on to weightier fare, you can't go wrong with pork adobo, spicy hunks of tender pig that are a national favorite in the island nation, or pancit bihon, a savory blend of chicken, shrimp and vegetables over skinny noodles.There are plenty of seafood and vegetable entrees, and you can wash them down with coconut or mango juice. The atmosphere will make you feel as though you've stepped off Powell Boulevard and into a small Philippine town: From the baskets along the walls to the obligatory sea shells dangling from the ceiling, everything about Manila's Best feels wonderfully unplanned. Completing the homey feel, a gaggle of the staff's small children play games and watch television up front. (NJ) 4811 SE POWELL BLVD., 788-6454. 11 AM-10 PM TUESDAY-SATURDAY, 1-9 PM SUNDAY. MARINE POLIS SUSHI LAND Better judgment tells us that the terms "conveyor belt" and "sushi" should not be used together under any circumstance. Marine Polis proves that better judgment is not always good judgment. This Japanese "diner" serves up dishes of sushi that rotate around a horseshoe-shaped counter on a conveyor belt--pick what interests you as it bobs on by. If Hello-Kitty-meets-1950s-automat turns you on, you're likely to be a fan of the homey food, too. Don't come to this place expecting blowfish; Marine Polis is strictly sushi lite and makes a great first stop for beginners and children. The house special roll is tuna, celery and fake crab wrapped in egg; to this fan it tastes like a brown-bag sandwich made with Wonderbread. The jiggling cups of Jello salad amuse more than tempt. Vats of pickled ginger and wasabi are placed serve-yourself style along the entire counter. At the end of your meal, add up the color-coded plates to figure out the bill. The damage will be minimal: plates run $1, $1.50 and $2 a piece. (CBB) 4021 SW 117TH AVE., BEAVERTON, 520-0257. 11 AM-9 PM DAILY. MARKET STREET CAFE Lower Southeast has been subdued with the closure of the Hawthorne Bridge, but trendy businesses are edging into this neighborhood of warehouses and print-service bureaus. People around here work, and they need lunch. A favorite among the slim pickings is the Market Street Cafe. It's unpretentious, larger than its tiny patio lets on and an anomaly in eating. The cafe's take on the classic Reuben--turkey, diced ham and dill havarti on black rye--is delicious. The canned succotash soup transcends its school-cafeteria associations by virtue of huge hunks of beef, which appear ripped from a roast by a berserker.Market Street's the sort of place where you'll find People magazine in a rack next to well-thumbed culinary classics like the Escoffier cookbook, and tattoo artists and snowboard-clothing designers lunching beside tool-and-die old-timers. Come for hand-cut home fries, a pork loin and peach chutney sandwich on toasted raisin bread, a tuna melt or a soup of tortellini from the freezer. Everybody's happy. (JTW) 1728 SE 7TH AVE., 236-9486. 10:30 AM-3 PM MONDAY-FRIDAY. MAZATLAN TAQUERIA The smiling, friendly face behind the counter is your first introduction to this downtown lunch spot. Next you'll make acquaintance with a bulbous pollo burrito that's heavy in your hands but light and tasty in your mouth.Your stomach will love the fresh tortilla, crisp lettuce and soft chunks of chicken.If you want to expand your circle of friends, extend a welcome to a variety of tortas (chicken, beef, pork or chili), tacos (meat or fish) and quesadillas (meat or fish). When you're almost finished, say farewell between bites and promise to return soon. I know I will. (JG) MAZATLAN TAQUERIA, 116 SW PINE ST., 243-5510. 8 AM-4 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY. MIO SUSHI This cramped but cozy neighborhood sushi joint gets extra points for creativity. In addition to the usual selection of fresh rolls and sashimi, Mio Sushi offers sushi pizza--a hot plank of seaweed wrap, sticky rice, chunks of fake crab, whitefish and tomato with baked-on "special sauce" (reminiscent of a combination of mayonnaise and soy sauce). This dish is certainly enterprising but extremely hard to eat with chopsticks. The baked green mussels are this sushi hut's best left-of-center offering. Exquisitely fresh, they're coated in a luscious crust of the ever-present special sauce.The rich, tasty mussels decadently recall the panache of the 1950s standby, clams casino. For the unadventurous, the old-school sushi comes plump and elegantly served. Expect the chicken udon to arrive piping hot, lush with soft noodles and studded with fresh vegetables and chunks of off-the-bone chicken. Reservations are a good idea at this popular Saturday-night spot. (CBB) 2271 NW JOHNSON ST., 221-1469. 11:30 AM-9:30 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY, 11:30 AM-10 PM FRIDAY, NOON TO 10 PM SATURDAY. MI RANCHITO TAQUERIA Have you heard about the guy who starved to death on Northeast Alberta Street? He was standing on the sidewalk at a point exactly between Mi Ranchito and La Sirenita (see listing) and expired while he was trying to make up his mind between them. Maybe it's just an urban legend. OK, I just made it up--but it could happen. Located spitting distance from one another, both are extremely popular spots for very cheap and tasty Mexican food, and their differences are minimal. Mi Ranchito is distinguished by ultra-bright lighting, a mural of a generic Mexican scene and a red salsa that's got a little more bite than that of its neighbor.Terrific soft tacos with various meats, from carne asada to spiced pork to beef tongue, lead the menu. At $1.25 for the genuine article here--a dollar and a quarter, for crying out loud!--it's a mystery why anyone would go anywhere near a Taco Bell.There's also a full complement of burritos, quesadillas, tamales and tortas, as well as seafood, dinner combinations and plenty of egg dishes for breakfast. Breakfast time, incidentally, is the only time it's really easy to choose between the two taquerias: Mi Ranchito opens an hour earlier. (JMcQ) 2839 NE ALBERTA ST., 331-1774. 9 AM-9 PM DAILY. MR. BROWN'S BAR-B-QUE (AT COFFEENET) To visit Mr. Brown's Bar-B-Que is to enter Bizarro World, where everything you think you know about restaurants is turned on its head. First off, it's a rib joint in the unlikely location of a down-and-out strip mall in outer Northeast. More confusing, it's also billed as an Internet cafe. Picture for a moment the implications--keyboards and collards, mouses and sauces, Net surfing and finger licking. Make any sense? We thought not. But that's OK because there's actually only one computer available here--and it's in the office. What Mr. Brown and company do get right, however, is the ribs--and that's what it's really about anyway, right?Order up a pile of barbecue, sit down at one of the plastic tables and chairs, pretend the bright overhead lights are actually the sun, and you'll feel as if you're at a picnic in grandma's back yard, complete with her bright and flowery plastic tablecloths.The sauce--tangy, sweet and spicy--is the best around, and you can even pick up a jar to go. There's also a boneless pork dinner ($10) that comes with a choice of two sides and is easily enough for two, if not three. Anyone who has enough room for the homemade deep-dish cobbler or authentic banana pudding should win a prize. While the accent is on the barbecue, Mr.Brown's also serves as a cafe, with coffee drinks and breakfast goodies available all day long. (MO) 10249 NE CLACKAMAS ST., 255-0028. 8 AM-8 PM TUESDAY-THURSDAY, 9 AM-9 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY. MY-CANH RESTAURANT Love, as the old song says, is good for anything that ails us. My-Canh's chicken and ginger stewed in a clay pot ($6) is similarly all-curing. The spicy-sweet flavor will leave your thoughts awash in blissful optimism while the ginger goes to work on any lingering respiratory troubles winter may have caused. The capacious, bright dining room--enlivened by peppy, Muzak versions of standards like "Stand By Me"--enables a lingering, piquant feast.Combination dinners include soup, a spring roll, fried wontons or pot stickers, an entree and steamed rice for no more than $6. Lunch specials are under $5 and include all the dinner accoutrements, save the pot stickers. If you go for lunch, though, it's worth it to spring for the fresh, chewy dumplings that give the sensation of having one's jaw massaged by the hands of an angel. Sheesh, now that's love. (MM) 1801 NE 39TH AVE., 281-0594. 11 AM-10 PM MONDAY-THURSDAY. 11 AM-11 PM FRIDAY-SATURDAY. 4-10 PM SUNDAYS. NEW YORK, NEW YORK Ambience comes in many forms, and while many folks go for the over-rated manipulations of mood lighting, others embrace the joys of anti-ambience. New York, New York, a top-notch sandwich shop housed in a gas station mini-mart, epitomizes the allure of anti-ambience.This pit stop's main offerings are dripping sandwiches and floppy pizza, and there's something quaint about eating under fluorescent light bulbs, waiting for the next armed robbery to begin.New York, New York serves up a truly authentic cheese steak with thinly sliced meat--not Steak-ums stuff--and fried onions. The real pièce de résistance here is the deli sub, a whopper of a sandwich stuffed with Italian meats most rare around these parts: salty Genoa prosciutto, spicy capicola, baloney-like mortadella and provolone cheese. Grab a friend and make the best deal ever--half of your cheese steak for half of their sub. (CBB) 111 NE 164TH AVE., VANCOUVER, WASH., (360) 882-9005. 10 AM-9 PM DAILY. NICHOLAS RESTAURANT You could drive by Nicholas a thousand times and not suspect that there's a real gem hidden behind the vaguely seedy exterior that makes up a part of the defiantly unpicturesque Southeast Grand Avenue streetscape. Do yourself a favor next time: Pull over. Enter. Eat. Everything is made from scratch at Nicholas, a Lebanese family joint, and it shows in quality and flavor; even the simple, vibrant tabbouleh is clearly a cut above the usual. In addition to a well-rounded lineup of sandwiches, mezza plates and kabobs, the kitchen turns out excellent Middle Eastern pizzas and calzone. It also has a way with the humble lentil: mjadra, a vegan dish of rice, lentils and onion, is improbably flavorful, and the lentil soup is superb. For dessert, there's homemade baklava and Turkish coffee ground on the spot, and you can pick up fresh pita bread to go. If you haven't been to Nicholas before and you finally make it a point to stop in, be forewarned: Plenty of people have found out about it before you, and it's often packed. (JMcQ) 318 SE GRAND AVE., 235-5123. 10 AM-9 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, 11 PM-7 PM SUNDAY. NICK'S FAMOUS CONEY ISLAND I don't know about you, but sometimes I want to forget about lettuce, lima beans, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes and all their relatives. I want meat, and I want it cheap, so I go to Nick's Coney Island. Choose a juicy old-school burger with cheese or smothered in chili. Opt for the ham-and-cheese sandwich, hot or cold.Or go for the famous Coney Island itself--a hefty hot dog topped with manly meat sauce.Eat it all as fast as you can. Feel stuffed. Cross the street with your meat breath and harass the veggie freaks at Powell's cook-and-gardener store. Now, don't you feel better? (JG) NICK'S FAMOUS CONEY ISLAND, 3746 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 235-4024. 11 AM-9 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.