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Get Your Irish Up

BY ZACH DUNDAS
243-2122

 


www.bushmills.com

www.jameson.ie

The word "whiskey" descends from an English mangling of the Irish "uisce beathadh," or "water of life."

Manhole covers in Dublin read "UISCE," a constant reminder that there's drinking to be done.

St. Patrick's Day Tippling Tip:

Rather than get trampled in the crush of sodden amateurs at Portland's Irish and not-so-Irish pubs, why not try drinking at one of these spots:

The Irish Remedy:
One shot of Jameson served with a half-pint of black and tan (stout and lager).

The Low Brow Lounge, 1036 NW Hoyt St., 226-0200.
An English bar that matches local Irish joints for its treatment of Dublin's black gold.

The Moon and Sixpence, 2014 NE 42nd St., 288-7802.
Honor thy father with a shot each of Jameson and Bushmills for $7.

My Father's Place, 523 SE Grand Ave., 235-5494.


I didn't trek to Dublin for St. Patrick's Day two years ago to see dozens of American high-school marching bands, surrealist floats or "one of the lads from Boyzone." That, however, was just what the Irish capital's gala parade offered. Nor did I visit the Auld Sod to mix with thousands of Americans in Notre Dame baseball caps, so I tried to act as Canadian as possible.

Dublin is a gorgeous, graceful city, about the size of Portland, populated by a friendly breed of young Irish go-getters (demographically, it's the youngest city in Europe). It has a cosmopolitan air without the megapolitan overload of, say, London. I managed to do there a lot of what I went to Ireland to do--drink.

Naturally, I made Guinness my standby during my stay, preferring it to the municipal water supply. But when I needed variety in my robust liquid diet, I had two choices: Bushmills and Jameson.

Like most Irish dichotomies (North/ South, Republican/Unionist, Catholic/ Protestant), the divide separating the two great Irish whiskeys can incite violence. While there are intrinsic differences between the two brands, you only have to look at a map to get at the real root of the issue. Bushmills, product of the oldest licensed distillery in the world, is made in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. Jameson, founded in Dublin's Bow Street in 1780, is now distilled in County Cork, deep in the Republic.

Thus, a certain Hibernian hothead acquaintance of mine dismissed Bushmills as "Protestant whiskey" and championed Jameson--despite the fact that the old Dublin brand has been safely in French corporate hands for years.

The artificial geographical divide between the two, in fact, obscures the real differences between them. Rather than focus on the Border, a sad legacy of British imperialism, let us concentrate on the liquor.

Both whiskies are manufactured in a distinctively Irish manner, drying their malt in smokeless kilns, eschewing the swampy peat fuel that gives Scotch its flavor. Thus, both are smoother than Scottish whiskies. Over ice, both Bushmills and Jameson go down like the Titanic. Jameson has a more muscular flavor than its northern rival, perhaps because it's aged for seven years while Bushmills sits for five.

At a recent sip-off at My Father's Place (where $7 gets you a shot of each), a companion and I traded doses of Irish pride back and forth until the lassie decided she preferred Bushmills' lighter approach. For my part, I was fine with Jameson's strength. We agreed to disagree, and downed our choices in relative peace.

Would that all Irish disputes could be settled so easily. Sláinte!

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Willamette Week | originally published March 15, 2000

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