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WHISKEY Before Beer

BY ABRAM GOLDMAN-ARMSTRONG
243-2122

 

The MacTarnahan is available at local liquor stores for about $50 and is poured at Portland Brewing's Taproom and Grill, 2730 NW 31st Ave., 228-5269.

 

The new Collaborator brew Old Hallucinator, an old ale, will be introduced Thursday, Nov. 16, at the New Old Lompoc Brewpub, 1616 NW 23rd Ave., 225-1855. Pints of Hallucinator and Milk Stout will be $2 from 6:30 on.

 

Upcoming Beer Tastings at
Belmont Station
4520 SE Belmont St., 232-8538
Organic Beers:
6-8 pm Friday, Nov. 17
Northwest Winter Warmers: 2-4 pm Saturday, Nov. 25

 


The brisk fall wind whipped up my kilt as I set out to meet Portland Brewing Company's Scottish foster-child, "The MacTarnahan," a 15-year-old single-malt whiskey. The alcoholic warmth of the whiskey was just what I needed.

Scotland, like Oregon, is a soggy country where people drink ales and whiskies with lots of malt flavor in hopes of drying out their heads. Thankfully, the new MacTarnahan whiskey (or "whisky," as the Scots have it) debuts just in time for the onset of our beloved rainy season. Named after company stockholder and benefactor "Mac" MacTarnahan, this sauce is made exclusively for Portland Brewing at a secret Highland distillery and is at the forefront of a growing trend of breweries expanding their businesses beyond beer.

Like Portland Brewing beers, the MacTarnahan is well-rounded and easy to drink without being bland or boring. The aroma is peaty at first, with some sherry and brown sugar-like sweetness and a touch of oak. Slightly more alcoholic than most whiskies at 46 percent by volume, the MacTarnahan's flavor is balanced between sweetness and dryness from the alcohol, finishing with a solid peat note.

After the whiskey comes out of the still at the secret distillery in the Grampian Mountains, some of it is aged in American oak barrels, some in Spanish sherry casks. Later, these separate spirits are back-blended to create the MacTarnahan. This blending is part of all single-malt production and does not make them "blended whiskies." Blended whiskey--chiefly invented for mixed drinks--is a mix of many different malt whiskies, often from different distilleries, and 60 percent "grain whiskey," a whiter spirit without much character as a malt. The result is a mild whiskey suitable for mixing with soda water or other adulterants. Single-malts are blended only from whiskies from one distillery.

Portland Brewing Company executives spent about a year traveling to Scotland to locate a distillery that would sell them the kind of whiskey they were looking for. The identity of the distillery is a closely guarded secret, due to agreements with distributors of its other products. The initial bottling of the MacTarnahan was only 200 cases, but 400 more were bottled Oct. 12.

The notion of a brewery importing and marketing a whiskey is new, but there is a growing interest in spirits across the board. McMenamin's Edgefield distillery is an example of the crossover that some microbrewers anticipate. In fact, Washington state's Fish Brewing Company recently lobbied to change the licensing laws so it could start distilling as well as brewing. I say, let the spirits move us.

Slainte mhaith (good health)!

 

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