Contents
Gift Guide 2
clothing guide

Scene Stealers

It Girls

4th-Grade Somethings

Little Women

Action Jacksons

Shredding Bettys

Boys to Men

Edge of 17

Dads Who Dig

Hip Mamas

Gift Guide 1
$35 and up

Fun and Games

Literary License

Windows Shopping

Kitchen Aid

Get Out

Gremlin-Free Gizmos

Discmen

Skintillating

Eat, Drink and
Be Merry


Gifts That Keep On Giving

Child's Play

Well-Furnished

Gimcracks and Geegaws

 
dads who dig

BY MARY E. CAMPBELL


So, it's come to this: Nerds have set the fashion agenda. It seems the computer czars don't like suits and ties (must be all that manual labor). The menswear industry has responded to the Business Casual mandate by producing more khakis, sweaters and relaxed button-downs. What a mess.

Fortunately, Cary Grant channelers haven't let the workplace deteriorate completely. The well-cut suit hasn't vanished; it's just become more comfortable and integrated. Truth be told, it's not the clothes so much as the gadgetry that distinguishes CEO's from couriers. You can spot a VIP by the flash of his silver Nokia 8000 and Palm Pilot V, not his Brooks Brothers label.

Given few clues on what to wear when, '90s guys surprise us by knowing what they like, what it's called and where to get it--be it anything from a tuxedo in barathea (a pebbly-textured weave) wool to cufflinks made from old Royal typewriter keys, just like the ones that Jack Lemmon banged away on as a harried corporate yes-man in Billy Wilder's 1960 classic, The Apartment.

Men still want to project power, says Mario's men's buyer Mark Jensen, despite today's more casual looks. So they've struck a balance, choosing unfussy, comfortable shapes and cuts in sumptuous materials. What's hot right now? "Anything in cashmere," says Jensen. "Soft coats, unconstructed cardigans, soft-shoulder sport coats in luxe fabrications."

High-tech executive Eric Thompson, a father of two and business veep at Portland's WellMed Inc., sticks to classics. "I tend to follow trends less and buy well-made clothes from well-known brands," said Thompson. His fashion maxim? "Pay twice as much; it'll last three times as long and never go out of style."

Dr. Franklin Wong, a rehabilitation-medicine expert at Legacy Good Samaritan hospital and father of three, works in a profession bound by white coats. "It identifies us, it gets us in the mental mode," says Wong, whose long black ponytail sets him apart from hundreds of coats. He used to wear "the tweed coat, white shirt, and preppy tie," but now enjoys dressing in Italian sport coats, plaid pants and monochrome ties. As for the ponytail, he says, "All my patients find it very tasteful."


the goods:
preppy prevails
Even software jockeys still have occasion to suit up. A Hickey Freeman pinstripe job brings some tried-and-true, old-money class to the IPO set. Made of 100-percent wool imported from Canterbury, it's done in an old-fashioned cut--two-button, pleats--but do you really think shawl-collar, three-button, flat-front tab-closure suits will be around in five years? This one will. (Kenneth Gordon dress shirt is $75.) $995 at John Helmer, 969 SW Broadway, 223-4976.

a pleasure in the neck
It's funny how we get used to a quality line that, in the end, isn't so fine after all. Banana Republic trousers are more than decent but they've got nothing on a pair by Guy Laroche. Likewise, the ties you pick up at TJ's get the job done alright, but try holding them up to one of these. The red silk tie shown here is hand sewn from imported fabric, especially for John Helmer by Robert Talbott. Hand-sewn. Imported. Especially for. These little words mean a lot, and yes, it shows. $75 at John Helmer.

get connected
Cuff links are perhaps the bit of jewelry ornamentation most acceptable to masses of men. First of all, French-cuff shirts suggest the wearer knows something about la dolce vita that you don't. And cuff links act like earrings or a cravat, a place to have fun with individual expression. Pass up millennium editions and try a handsome English enamel design embellished with polka dots or rich-hued paisleys and rimmed with gold or silver. (Visit www.brixton-gill.com for examples). For a gifty touch, personalizing a piece of jewelry with engraving "says a lot," notes jeweler Carl Greve, about $10-$15. $420 at Carl Greve Jewelers, 731 SW Morrison St., 223-7121.

perfectly plain
Tone-on-tone has been all the rage for neckties and shirts, but it's just that--a kicked-up fad. You can't go wrong with a classic--a mighty white dress shirt like this Ralph Lauren 100 percent cotton pinpoint button-down. Always in demand, this evergreen item succeeds with chinos or a suit any day of the week. And unlike russet or jungle green, white looks good on everyone. $65 at Meier & Frank and Nordstrom, various locations.

make mincemeat of lambswool
Any old V-neck will do? No, no, no. Make it cashmere like this Alan Paine black pullover. The feel and drape of a cashmere garment is worth the price, even if you have to put it on layaway. Not convinced? Cashmere is incredibly warm, and it lasts forever. $295 at John Helmer.

the politics of rodeo
The Portland Outdoor Store, a family-owned business, has been selling Western wear and outdoor clothes for real cowboys for 82 years. The boot brands they carry--Acme, Lucchese and Dan Post--are as old as the store itself, and mostly made not in Oregon but in Texas. That hasn't stopped our governor from wearing them. Get these Justin boots and the mustache will follow. $160 and up at the Portland Outdoor Store, 304 SW 3rd Ave., 222-1051.

jeans revisited
Certainly, not every chap need wear his jeans as snugly as the guv does. Dads can take a cue from their sons and go baggy without looking like ridiculous poseurs. Stick with dark-rinse Levi's. These are Red Tab 787, low-rise with a leg that's straight and loose. Your kids will not be embarrassed. $47 at Meier & Frank.

a steel-heeled saddle

There's a slew of public golf courses in Oregon, but no amount of fine-tooth grooming can keep the greens neat and drained. A shoe that can weather water is essential. Naturally, architects at Nike pay as much attention to the sole of a shoe as they do to the upper, which begets a golf shoe that's slick enough to pad around Pebble Beach's clubhouse and suitably sturdy for our mucky links. The new Course Air Tour, a tour-level shoe that was designed with input from PGA players, delivers. There was no word on whether local PGA favorite Peter Jacobsen had a chance to chip in. After all, he's keeping pretty busy designing golf courses these days. $150 at Niketown, 930 SW 6th Ave., 221-6453.

also consider:
hunt club class

Inspired by the jacket of the Italian equestrian Olympic team, this sumptuous Loro Piana top coat is made from the incredibly soft yarn spun from cashmere goat hair. The coat is designed to accommodate the lengths of suit or sport jackets, allowing all kinds of horsy activity. $1,895, in black and olive, at Mario's, 921 SW Morrison St., 227-3477.

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Willamette Week | originally published December 1, 1999

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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