A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest GOLDEN HORSE Some of the best cooks in the city are turning out unusual and delicious Cantonese meals behind the bright lights and banal decor of this Chinatown corner restaurant. The more adventurous dishes will take you to culinary nirvana. Two beef dishes score high: bitter melon beef, which has a slightly sour flavor that cuts the richness of the meat, and orange beef (which must be ordered in advance), with gnarly chunks of meat, cloves, star anise and orange sautéed to an almost candied concentration. CHINESE 238 NW 4th Ave., 228-1688. $$ CAFFE MINGO There are no secrets at Caffe Mingo. Crusty loaves stacked in a pyramid wait to be sliced. A large, round, shallow metal tray that looks like an industrial castoff from the turn of the century cradles the tomatoes that will be part of your insalata caprese. Chunks of parmigiano-reggiano lie heaped together with the hand-held grater used to shred the cheese tableside. If you sit at the counter or the marble-topped communal table, you can look into the kitchen and watch every step of the preparation of your robustly flavored meal. ITALIAN 807 NW 21st Ave., 226-4646. $$-$$$ FRATELLI That an Italian restaurant could open and serve food completely different from all of the other Italian restaurants in Portland is testament to the regional diversity of the boot-shaped peninsula. Fratelli's shifting menu focuses on the various parts of what has only been a single country since 1861, when Garibaldi's invasion of Sicily led to unification. Shockingly reasonable prices, knowledgeable servers and a pleasant, high-ceiling space add to the appeal. ITALIAN 1230 NW Hoyt St., 241-8800. $$ JO BAR AND ROTISSERIE The brilliant white oxford shirts, wide gem-toned ties and trouser-quality jeans worn by servers epitomize Jo Bar's pearls-with-leather ambience. It's a bar, not a saloon, a fine restaurant sans dining room. Jo Bar turns comfort food on its head: Pizza is topped with chicken and hoisin sauce, oysters on the half shell come with a mango granita. ECLECTIC 701 NW 23rd Ave., 222-0048. $$$-$$$$ FULLER'S COFFEE SHOP This is the kind of place where you can belly up to the counter, pick almost anything off the menu and get good, honest, diner fare. Burgers and milkshakes are highlights, but don't forget the strawberry shortcake when the season's right. AMERICAN 136 NW 9th Ave., 222-5608. $ L'AUBERGE L'Auberge combines some of the best things about French culture--passion, romance, Jean-Paul Sartre--with some very Portland qualities to create a relaxed and funky French restaurant that hasn't changed its philosophy much since its establishment in 1969. FRENCH 2601 NW Vaughn St., 223-3302. $$$-$$$$ LE BOUCHON Le Bouchon does not serve haute cuisine, but its bistro dishes and the charmingly French ambience make this one of the best casual places in Portland to have dinner. It's an entirely French-owned and -operated place, and the menu is filled with simple classics: onion soup, pâté with cornichons, snails, sweetbreads, magret de canard sauced with cream and brandy, kidneys, crème caramel, chocolate mousse. Nothing is trendy here, nothing will stun you with its inventiveness or culinary finesse--it's just good, honest, straightforward cooking served with the kind of aplomb the French manage so impressively. FRENCH 517 NW 14th Ave., 248-2193. $$-$$$   Southeast WILLIAM'S ON 12TH William's has a slightly formal look, incongruous for this Southeast Portland neighborhood, yet it's entirely comfortable, with cozy seating and perfectly modulated lighting. The food is advertised as "American-French," and certain items common to French cooking appear, such as sweetbreads and tarte Tatin. AMERICAN-FRENCH 207 SE 12th Ave., 963-9226. $$$$ IL PIATTO Regulars at this homey Italian cafe each have a favorite dish, one that tastes so good they have to order it again and again, even if it means skipping something else that looks almost as delicious. For many, it's the portobello mushrooms in garlic cream sauce with polenta--a blend of robust flavors that tempts eaters to dispense with table manners so they can actually lick the bowl clean. For others it's the crespelle alla ricotta. You decide. ITALIAN 2348 SE Ankeny St., 236-4997. $$$ IVY HOUSE For many parents, the thought of dining out with kids is connected with the phrase "happy meal." But Ivy House offers families a very civilized, relaxed alternative to fast-food joints. As the kids play nearby, parents can savor delicious, expertly prepared food from an ambitious menu that changes seasonally. ECLECTIC 1605 SE Bybee Blvd., 231-9528. $$-$$$ LUCKY LABRADOR BREW PUB Don't be afraid just because almost everyone in this place looks like they jumped out of a J.Crew catalog. The pretty people sit at wooden tables and scarf down unpretentious meals, but Sears-catalog people are welcome to do the same. From the stout sausage sandwich with sautéed green peppers and onions to the hummus and the hefty bento (the spicy curry can make you cry!), this is a great place to dig in and watch people. ECLECTIC 915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3555. $ BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB Fusion is a concept largely ignored by local Indian restaurants. The Cricket Club takes a swing at it, presenting what amounts to two separate menus, one North Indian, the other Middle Eastern. The Cricket Club is no Saucebox, but the owners' willingness to try something even slightly different should be applauded. INDIAN/ MIDDLE EASTERN 1925 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-0740. $$-$$$ LEGIN Unlike the Mandarin and Szechuan offerings in town, Legin is thoroughly Cantonese. This means that very little on the 300-dish menu is spicy; instead, everything expresses itself with an assist from ginger and garlic sauces. But none of it is ordinary: There are seven kinds of shark's fin soup, sea cucumber and frog dishes, and clay-pot galore. The best offerings, however, come from the specials board and waitstaff suggestions, especially the seasonal seafood. CHINESE 8001 SE Division St., 777-2828. $$ IRON HORSE RESTAURANT The portions here bulge over the corners of the plates. The beef burrito is a lavish thing, about the size of Tom Hanks' neck, stuffed with meat and vegetables with red sauce--and cheese seems to be applied with a firehose. The chicken Belize tostada is more elegant, but no less grand. Slow-cooked and flavored with orange, garlic, oregano and cinnamon, this dish is an interesting, successful twist on Mexican cuisine. MEXICAN 6034 SE Milwaukie Ave., 232-1826. $ RIYADH'S A quiet place behind an unassuming storefront, the little Lebanese eatery serves a basic, solid menu of kebabs, mezzas, sandwiches and sides. Freshness and care in preparation are the hallmarks; the hummus is smooth and potent, the meats are well-spiced and the falafel isn't greasy. MIDDLE EASTERN 1318 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-1254. $   Northeast BERNIE'S SOUTHERN BISTRO From its Down South-of-France name to its crawfish-out-of-water Northeast Alberta Street location, Bernie's Southern Bistro sustains a playful dissonance between expectation and deliverance. Hearty southern cuisine is given a nouvelle treatment, with results as disconcertingly comforting as a porch bench rocking on unseen gliders. SOUTHERN 2904 NE Alberta St., 282-9864. $$-$$$ HORN OF AFRICA Somalia, Kenya and Djibouti share the eponymous geography of Africa's east coast with the former kingdom of Abyssinia, and the food served at this outpost of a little-known culture reflects flavors from the entire region. Unlike most of the Ethiopian food served in Portland, these dishes are not particularly fiery. If you like it hot, ask for a bit of chutney--a thin blend of cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, vinegar and spices. ABYSSINIAN 3939 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 331-9844. $ BEATERVILLE CAFE For less than the price of a '74 Dart wheel cover, you can eat like you're driving a much more stylin' ride. Breakfasts are built around frittata-style omelettes, from the doomed-but-visionary Edsel spuds with bell pepper and cheddar, to the nearly forgotten road king DeSoto, with cheddar, spinach, tomatoes, garlic and bacon. This is basically good, solid diner fare upgraded with decent bread, fresh vegetables, leaf-lettuce salads and extra care in the kitchen. AMERICAN 2201 N Killingsworth St., 735-4652. $ ROSE'S Long ago, before there was Northwest Cuisine, Portland's favorite casual eateries were--believe it or not--Jewish delis. Of the great delis from that time, only Rose's is still around, and it's been exiled from Northwest Portland to a fading suburban strip mall, but it still serves those thick sandwiches and old-school pastries. The menu's been expanded and goyed up; avoid such deli heresies as taco chicken salad and lasagna. Stick with the basic sandwiches, all served on dark rye with a kosher pickle, or try a Reuben. DELI 12329 NE Glisan St., 254-6545. $-$$ ENSENADA'S Hearty taqueria fare served by the Medrano family. Watch the Blazers play on a crappy TV wedged on the counter as you sink your teeth into hefty burritos and tasty tacos. The Baja burrito with guac, cheese and steak is particularly good. MEXICAN 3962 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 249-7378. $ DU'S GRILL This small storefront grills chicken, beef and pork Korean-style with a dash of teriyaki to please the bento freaks. Kim chee is on the menu, should you choose to amp up your tastebuds with this pungent pickled salad. ASIAN 5365 NE Sandy Blvd., 284-1773. $   Downtown/Southwest BERBATI For most, Berbati means music to the ears, not the belly, but it happens to be one of the city's swingingest spots for Greek cuisine. Good Mediterranean cuisine is all about finger food washed down with a few hoists of wine or ouzo and a bitter Greek coffee, and this place does it right. Try to stumble in on a Thursday, when it's belly-dancing night: It's good for the digestion. MIDDLE EASTERN 19 SW 2nd Ave., 226-2122. $$-$$$ JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH For more than a century, Jake's has been attracting crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Southwest Portland fixture remains especially appealing in a town that can, at times, become a little fusion-happy. Make sure to try a broad plate of the restaurant's still-famous crawfish--your server will certainly show you how to eat them. SEAFOOD 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. $$$-$$$$ EL GRILLO This downtown taqueria serves your favorite cheap South of the Border treats: tacos, burritos, tortas, quesadillas, etc. It's right next door to a strip club, and if you go to use the restaurant's bathroom you'll get a surprising peek of full-frontal nudity. You decide whether that's a bonus or not. MEXICAN 703 SW Ankeny St., 241-0462. $ GOOD DOG/BAD DOG Hot dogs are still the king. Your proof? This downtown doghouse is almost always full of lunchtime revelers seeking its quirky atmosphere and true-blue bratwurst, kielbasa, British bangers, sweet Italians, hot Italian and an even hotter Magma dog. SAUSAGES 708 SW Alder St., 222-3410. $   Suburbs MERCHANT OF VENICE Back in the early 1990s the Merchant of Venice, known for thoughtful and inexpensive Italian cuisine, occupied a run-down building on Northeast Broadway until gentrification pushed it out. More than four years later and about 15 miles away, the Merchant has been reborn in the award-winning suburban development called Orenco Station and serves up the same homey Italian food. ITALIAN 1341 NE Orenco Station Parkway, Hillsboro, 640-1523. $$ CRAZY CHEF SATO The crazy chef turns out Japanese and American "fast" food and whips up his own signature teriyaki sauce, which you can buy in bottles at the counter. Burgers and donburi share space on the menu at this cross-cultural diner. JAPANESE-AMERICAN 12720 SW Walker Road, Beaverton, 643-8932. $ HALL STREET GRILL Inside a dining room of ski-lodge capaciousness, a very agreeable staff serves a range of interesting dishes. Menu hits include mesquite-grilled pork chops in a maple sauce, portobello mushroom ravioli and Hawaiian swordfish with vermouth lemon butter and artichoke tartar. It's located in an unlikely spot, but this is an inventive restaurant drawing skillfully from a broad palate. NORTHWEST 3375 SW Hall Blvd., Beaverton, 641-6161. $$$-$$$$ HENRY FORD'S RESTAURANT Henry Ford's is a Portland institution that has been around since the '50s and, thankfully, hasn't changed a bit. Architecturally beautiful, the restaurant isn't "retro"--it's historic and mysterious. Friendly, efficient, old-school waiters run the dining room serving classic fare such as prawn cocktail, crab, escargot and porterhouse or New York strip. Dinner comes with biscuits, green salad and baked potato. And where else can you get a side dish of cooked carrots glazed in brown sugar? OLD SCHOOL 9589 SW Barbur Blvd., 245-2434. $$$-$$$$ HIRO SUSHI RESTAURANT You won't find any trendy offerings here like Philadelphia or Spider rolls. Customers tend to be Japanese-Americans or intelligent Americanos who don't require pandering. The seafood is extra fresh and the attention to preparation is artistic and obsessive. JAPANESE 6334 SW Meadows Road, Lake Oswego, 684-7521. $$ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Willamette Week | originally published March 1, 2000