A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK PIZZA Now that Pizza Hut is delivering New York-style pizzas right to your door, why the hell would you want to leave the comfort of that ass-formed cushion on your couch to go to Portland's signature indie pie shop, Escape from New York? How about this: cheap and perfectly foldable slices and tangy sauce that never clots. Italian 622 NW 23rd Ave., 227-5423. $ FONG CHONG Spending an hour at Fong Chong, possibly home to the best dim sum in town, is a fully realized sensory experience. It starts with the click-clack of metal carts containing tasty Chinese appetizers pushed around the tables. Try the floppy rice noodle with its squishy physique that goes down like oysters, and the normy gai, a moist stew of chicken, pork, sausages, mushrooms, sticky rice and bamboo shoots wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf. Chinese 301 NW 4th Ave., 220-0235. $ PEARL BAKERY Even in the gray of winter, Pearl Bakery seems a sunny place. A diverse selection of breads is always available to take away in Pearl's optimistically blue paper bags, but during lunch you can see the city's best bread in action in one of many excellent sandwiches. Eclectic 102 NW 9th Ave., 827-0910. $ TAPEO Ricardo Segura has brought a little bit of Spain to his storefront restaurant, and the best way to start your exploration may be with an order of tostaditas de boquerones. Homemade bread is thinly sliced, toasted, spread with a tapenade of farga and manzanilla olives and topped with a shiny, marinated anchovy that will forever change your notion of the minuscule, maligned fish. Finish up with the best flan in town. Spanish 2764 NW Thurman St., 226-0409. $$$ WILDWOOD Chef and owner Cory Schreiber's culinary understanding of the region is unmatched, and he delivers with metronomic consistency. In 1998, he deservedly shared the prestigious James Beard award for the leading chef in the Northwest. Northwestern 1221 NW 21st Ave., 248-9663. $$$-$$$$ Southeast CAMPBELL'S BAR-B-Q Stop thinking about calorie-to-fat ratios and head immediately to Campbell's for the greatest Southern 'cue in town. Sure, barbecue fare can encourage heart attacks if you eat it every day, but who can argue against the benefits of Campbell's tender pork ribs slathered in smoky brown sugar sauce for your mental constitution? Take a deep breath, find the last trace of hunger in your soul, and select one of Campbell's tiny, individually baked pies--the dense sweet potato is divine. Southern 8701 SE Powell Blvd., 777-9795. $ LA CATALANA Strong tastes pervade the dishes at La Catalana, the first among Portland's tapas restaurants. Don't miss specialties like the shellfish-packed paella and the kickass potato pie with aioli--you'll never look at scalloped potatoes the same way again. Save room for the caramelized crema Catalana or the house-made lemon ice cream. Spanish 2821 SE Stark St., 232-0948. $$-$$$ 3 DOORS DOWN CAFE 3 Doors Down is a treasure: a tiny, stylish bistro unassumingly tucked between a strip of shops off ever-frenetic Hawthorne Boulevard. An all-time fave is the penne with vodka sauce, with a slow-simmered gravy of plum tomatoes, cream, chili flakes, vodka and Italian sausage. Space is tight, and the cafe doesn't take reservations, but the staff is one of the friendliest around and will take care of you as quickly as possible. Italian 1429 SE 37th Ave., 236-6886. $$-$$$ ASSAGGIO Assaggio means a taste or a sampling, and the entire menu is set up around this gracious concept. The highlight of the entree list is a variety of three pastas, selected daily by the chef. If you're not in the mood for small portions, any of the 16 freshly prepared dishes makes a perfect meal all by itself. Italian 7742 SE 13th Ave., 232-6151. $$ IVY HOUSE For many parents, the thought of dining out with kids is connected with the phrase "happy meal." But Ivy House offers families a very civilized, relaxed alternative to fast-food joints. As the kids play nearby, parents can savor delicious, expertly prepared food from an ambitious menu that changes seasonally. Eclectic 1605 SE Bybee Blvd., 231-9528. $$-$$$ SABURO'S SUSHI HOUSE When you get inside the small sushi hut (after a very long wait--no reservations taken here), you will be seated practically atop your neighbor. But you won't mind the little hassles once your server starts bringing over the big fish. Saburo serves big-ass sushi, sublimely rich fish that are overstuffed, and chopsticks are out of the question: You need paws to down this stuff. Japanese 1667 SE Bybee Blvd., 236-4237. $ Northeast LEMONGRASS This Thai restaurant presents all the greatest hits of the region in such a fresh and authentic way, you'll want to search the Web for cheap airfare to Thailand so you can enjoy the complete experience. Unlike many of the quick-fix Thai joints around town, Lemongrass' menu features a small, focused group of traditional dishes that are prepared individually to order. You may be sitting in a comfy converted house in Northeast Portland, but you're as close to Bangkok as one meal can take you. Thai 1705 NE Couch St., 231-5780. $$-$$$ LA SIRENITA It's hard to resist the tacos and burritos at this neighborhood taqueria--you can't eat this well this cheaply at very many places. But splurge once in a while on some of the seafood dishes (the name does mean "The Little Mermaid," after all). One of the best items on the entire menu is the Seven Seas Soup, a spicy concoction of fish and shellfish. Mexican 2817 NE Alberta St., 335-8283. $ METRONOME For a simple place, Metronome's presentations can be surprisingly attractive. If you order carefully at this neighborhood cafe, you can have a fine light dinner: The soups, salads and appetizers are superior to the entrees, and you can make a fine meal from the first three categories. Eclectic 1426 NE Broadway, 288-4300. $$-$$$ MILO'S CITY CAFE Huge windows beckon light into the airy spaces, flooding the lemon and gray walls, stainless steel trim, and the various canted angles of the lofty room. Despite the lack of any soft fabrics, it's a comfortable and buzzing place, the classical music is a welcome wake-up for the day and the breakfasts, from omelettes to hash to French toast, are superb. American 1325 NE Broadway, 288-6456. $-$$ ROSE'S Long ago, before there was Northwest Cuisine, Portland's favorite casual eateries were--believe it or not--Jewish delis. Of the great delis from that time, only Rose's is still around, and it's been exiled from Northwest Portland to a fading suburban strip mall, but it still serves those thick sandwiches and old-school pastries. The menu's been expanded and goyed up; avoid such deli heresies as taco chicken salad and lasagna. Stick with the basic sandwiches, all served on dark rye with a kosher pickle, or try a Reuben. Deli 12329 NE Glisan St., 254-6545. $-$$ Downtown/Southwest GOOD DOG/BAD DOG Hot dogs are still the king. Your proof? This downtown doghouse is almost always full of lunchtime revelers seeking its quirky atmosphere and true-blue bratwurst, kielbasa, British bangers, sweet Italians, hot Italian and an even hotter Magma dog. Sausages 708 SW Alder St., 222-3410. $ MALLORY HOTEL DINING ROOM Generous portions and affordable prices are only one reason to check out this venerable institution. While it probably won't satisfy so-called "gourmets," the food is pretty damn good. Steaks, chops and chicken dominate, but local seafood is available, too, and when razor clams are in season the Mallory's version--lightly breaded and fried--is as good as any. Breakfast time may be the most crowded, especially on weekends, when the city's established families descend from the adjacent hills to partake of fluffy German pancakes, respectable blintzes and less traditional fare such as grilled polenta with tomato sauce and poached eggs. American 729 SW 15th Ave., 223-6311. $$$ PASTA VELOCE The pastas are simple and light, and the portions are honest. Every bowl of noodles--there are over a dozen choices in all--comes with fresh Parmesan and bruschetta. Standouts include penne alla zucca, a vegetarian mix of butternut squash, spinach and tomatoes, and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, broccoli, tomatoes, Gorgonzola, walnuts and brown butter. Italian 1022 SW Morrison St., 916-4388, and 933 SW 3rd Ave., 223-8200. $ PORTLAND STEAK AND CHOPHOUSE The tony decor, intimate booths, low lighting and hyper-attentive service make this the kind of place where power brokers and expense-account people can get comfy. But even better, the food is outstanding and unapologetically retro. Whether it's porterhouse, New York, sirloin, chicken, veal or fish, the portions are large and of fine quality. American 121 SW 3rd Ave., 223-6200. $$$ BIJOU CAFE Now in its 22nd year, the Bijou continues its commitment to using organic and local ingredients in its hearty fare, which leans toward healthy. Breakfast specialties include a roast-beef or snapper hash, tofu scramble and whole-wheat quesadillas with a spicy pumpkin-seed, tomatillo and roasted-pepper spread. The Bijou's cheery decor and friendly staff make it an excellent choice for relaxed, non-power dining. Americana 132 SW 3rd Ave., 222-3187. $$ Suburbs CLARKE'S RESTAURANT Chef Jonathan Clarke's cooking is eclectic, with touches of French and Northwestern. Generally the fish dishes are the best items on the list: The sea bass is perfectly underdone, and its tenderness plays against the crunch of accompanying vegetables. Although the dining area seems more of a tea room than an elegant restaurant, Clarke's makes every effort to serve meals with finesse. French/ Northwestern 455 2nd St., Lake Oswego, 636-2667. $$-$$$ GERALDI'S In a city crammed with so-called sandwich shops that serve thin slivers of so-so cold-cuts on lame-ass buns, Geraldi's is a stunning oasis. The hulking hot and cold sandwiches are served on the most superb lowbrow rolls in town--crusty and cantankerous on the outside, pillowy and inviting on the inside. Italian Beaverton Mall, 3205 SW Cedar Hills Blvd., 643-7200; 10000 SW Canyon Road, Beaverton, 297-2590; 2118 NW Glisan St., 224-7919; 6175 SW Lombard Ave., Beaverton, 643-8377; 518 SW 4th Ave., 224-1865. $ THE GREEN BEAN CAFE The burger bar at the Green Bean Cafe & Market specializes in fulfilling vegetarians' dreams of living the meaty life--sans the meat. It's as close as non-meat eaters can get to sloppy Americana and homespun solace in a bun, aside from divorcing the beef from the burger at your neighborhood dive. Vegetarian 14125 SW Walker Road, Beaverton, 644-4442. $$ HENRY FORD'S RESTAURANT Henry Ford's is a Portland institution that has been around since the '50s and, thankfully, hasn't changed a bit. Architecturally beautiful, the restaurant isn't "retro"--it's historic and mysterious. Friendly, efficient, old-school waiters run the dining room serving classic fare such as prawn cocktail, crab, escargot and porterhouse or New York strip. Dinner comes with biscuits, green salad and baked potato. And where else can you get a side dish of cooked carrots glazed in brown sugar? Old School 9589 SW Barbur Blvd., 245-2434. $$$-$$$$   - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Willamette Week | originally published May 10, 2000