A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest FONG CHONG Spending an hour at Fong Chong, possibly home to the best dim sum in town, is a fully realized sensory experience. It starts with the click-clack of metal carts containing tasty Chinese appetizers pushed around the tables. Try the floppy rice noodle with its squishy physique that goes down like oysters, and the normy gai, a moist stew of chicken, pork, sausages, mushrooms, sticky rice and bamboo shoots wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf. Chinese 301 NW 4th Ave., 220-0235. $ LE BOUCHON Le Bouchon does not serve haute cuisine, but its bistro dishes and the charmingly French ambience make this one of the best casual places in Portland to have dinner. It's an entirely French-owned and -operated place, and the menu is filled with simple classics: onion soup, pâté with cornichons, snails, sweetbreads, magret de canard sauced with cream and brandy, kidneys, crème caramel, chocolate mousse. Nothing is trendy here, nothing will stun you with its inventiveness or culinary finesse--it's just good, honest, straightforward cooking served with the kind of aplomb the French manage so impressively. French 517 NW 14th Ave., 248-2193. $$-$$$ PAPA HAYDN Upscale cafe fare mingles with some of the most celebrated after-dinner confections around town. These desserts are devastating in their subtlety. You'll keep eating the mousses, layer cakes, tarts and semifreddos and never feel you have to stop, because they don't rely on simple, overwhelming sweetness. The entrees are worth a good look, too. A special ravioli is described in flowery terms--"marjoram pasta filled with smoked salmon and ricotta cheese, tossed with wood-roasted corn, red pepper and red onion and served in a fumet"--but it surpasses even the description. Eclectic 701 NW 23rd Ave., 228-7317; 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave., 232-9440. $$$ PEARL BAKERY Even in the gray of winter, Pearl Bakery seems a sunny place. A diverse selection of breads is always available to take away in Pearl's optimistically blue paper bags, but during lunch you can see the city's best bread in action in one of many excellent sandwiches. Eclectic 102 NW 9th Ave., 827-0910. $ WILDWOOD Chef and owner Cory Schreiber's culinary understanding of the region is unmatched, and he delivers with metronomic consistency. In 1998, he deservedly shared the prestigious James Beard award for the leading chef in the Northwest. Northwestern 1221 NW 21st Ave., 248-9663. $$$-$$$$ Southeast CASABLANCA Talk about atmosphere. Step inside Casablanca and you find yourself transported through centuries and across continents to the sultry languor of a sultan's palace, complete with embroidered pillows, brass tables, belly dancing and a sumptuous array of gustatory treats. Morocco has long been a cultural crossroads--the Moors, the Spanish, the Portuguese and the French have all left their mark on its history and cuisine--and the five-course Royal Feast Dinner is probably the best way to explore this exotic heritage. Moroccan 2221 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-4400. $$$ THE EMPIRE ROOM Nicely peppered with unique touches, the light menu is as wide-ranging and carefully conceived as the room itself. Portions are extremely generous--often enough for two--and everything is tastefully garnished and visually rewarding. Try the abundant cheese and fruit plate, or the delicious lox plate with cream cheese, red onion, capers and dill. Eclectic 4260 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-9225. $-$$ LA CATALANA Strong tastes pervade the dishes at La Catalana, the first among Portland's tapas restaurants. Don't miss specialties like the shellfish-packed paella and the kickass potato pie with aioli--you'll never look at scalloped potatoes the same way again. Save room for the caramelized crema Catalana or the house-made lemon ice cream. Spanish 2821 SE Stark St., 232-0948. $$-$$$ LUCKY LABRADOR BREW PUB Don't be afraid because almost everyone in this place looks like they just jumped out of a J. Crew catalog. Lucky Lab is a blur of cotton turtlenecks, rough-hewn wood and fresh-scrubbed cheeks. But that's sorta nice. The menu chalkboard separates the meaty items from veggie: turkey sandwich, BLT, bento a-go-go (the spicy curry can make you cry!). And the beer selection is as colorful as patrons' fleece jackets. Eclectic 915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3555. $ ASSAGGIO Assaggio means a taste or a sampling, and the entire menu is set up around this gracious concept. The highlight of the entree list is a variety of three pastas, selected daily by the chef. If you're not in the mood for small portions, any of the 16 freshly prepared dishes makes a perfect meal all by itself. Italian 7742 SE 13th Ave., 232-6151. $$ SABURO'S SUSHI HOUSE After a very long wait (no reservations taken here) when you get inside the small sushi hut, you will be seated practically atop your neighbor. But you won't mind all these little hassles once your server starts bringing over the big fish. Saburo serves big-ass sushi, sublimely rich fish that are overstuffed, and chopsticks are out of the question: You need paws to down this stuff. Japanese 1667 SE Bybee Blvd., 236-4237. $ Northeast COLOSSO Got a date? Head to Colosso, where there's a nice buzz to diffuse any inter-couple awkwardness. You're not going to get that usual burger-n-burrito jazz at this tapas joint, but you are going to get bubble gum with your bill. Colosso stays open late and serves mouth-watering shareables such as the sauteed mushrooms in Madeira and the goat cheese crusted with pistachios, walnuts and almonds. Spanish 1932 NE Broadway, 288-3333. $$ GRAND CENTRAL BAKING COMPANY Grand Central is well known for its perfect rustic breads--potato rosemary, como, yeasted corn--but these starch specialists are equally concerned with what goes between two slices. Grand Central offers delicious and simple lunches: sandwiches of roasted chicken and apple-cranberry chutney (delectably sweet and tart), just-right egg salad, black forest ham and Swiss. Check this place out for tempting cakes, muffins and pastries as well. American 1444 NE Weidler St., 288-1614; 2230 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 232-0575; 3425 SW Multnomah Blvd., 977-2024. $ LEMONGRASS This Thai restaurant presents all the greatest hits of the region in such a fresh and authentic way, you'll want to search the Web for cheap airfare to Thailand so you can enjoy the complete experience. Unlike many of the quick-fix Thai joints around town, Lemongrass' menu features a small, focused group of traditional dishes that are prepared individually to order. You may be sitting in a comfy converted house in Northeast Portland, but you're as close to Bangkok as one meal can take you. Thai 1705 NE Couch St., 231-5780. $$-$$$ HORN OF AFRICA Somalia, Kenya and Djibouti share the eponymous geography of Africa's east coast with the former kingdom of Abyssinia, and the food served at this outpost of a little-known culture reflects flavors from the entire region. Unlike most of the Ethiopian food served in Portland, these dishes are not particularly fiery. If you like it hot, ask for a bit of chutney--a thin blend of cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, vinegar and spices. Abyssinian 3939 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 331-9844. $ LA SIRENITA It's hard to resist the tacos and burritos at this neighborhood taqueria--you can't eat this well this cheaply at very many places. But splurge once in a while on some of the seafood dishes (the name does mean "The Little Mermaid," after all). One of the best items on the entire menu is the Seven Seas Soup, a spicy concoction of fish and shellfish. Mexican 2817 NE Alberta St., 335-8283. $ MILO'S CITY CAFE Huge windows beckon light into the airy spaces, flooding the lemon and gray walls, stainless steel trim, and the various canted angles of the lofty room. Despite the lack of any soft fabrics, it's a comfortable and buzzing place, the classical music is a welcome wake-up for the day and the breakfasts, from omelettes to hash to French toast, are superb. American 1325 NE Broadway, 288-6456. $-$$ ROSE'S Long ago, before there was Northwest Cuisine, Portland's favorite casual eateries were--believe it or not--Jewish delis. Of the great delis from that time, only Rose's is still around, and it's been exiled from Northwest Portland to a fading suburban strip mall, but it still serves those thick sandwiches and old-school pastries. The menu's been expanded and goyed up; avoid such deli heresies as taco chicken salad and lasagna. Stick with the basic sandwiches, all served on dark rye with a kosher pickle, or try a Reuben. Deli 12329 NE Glisan St., 254-6545. $-$$ Downtown/Southwest THE HEATHMAN RESTAURANT This airy room filled with modernist flourishes--vast planes of glass, leather chairs with the texture of the underside of a horse's hoof--and executive chef Philippe Boulot's impossibly fresh menu transport you to another time and place. Boulot's elegant dishes change with the seasons and inspirations of the celebrated French chef. French/Northwestern 1001 SW Broadway, 790-7752. $$$-$$$$ JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH For more than a century, Jake's has been attracting crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Southwest Portland fixture remains especially appealing in a town that can, at times, become a little fusion-happy. Make sure to try a broad plate of the restaurant's still-famous crawfish--your server will certainly show you how to eat them. Seafood 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. $$$-$$$$ MALLORY HOTEL DINING ROOM Generous portions and affordable prices are only one reason to check out this venerable institution. While it probably won't satisfy so-called "gourmets," the food is pretty damn good. Steaks, chops and chicken dominate, but local seafood is available, too, and when razor clams are in season the Mallory's version--lightly breaded and fried--is as good as any. Breakfast time may be the most crowded, especially on weekends, when the city's established families descend from the adjacent hills to partake of fluffy German pancakes, respectable blintzes and less traditional fare such as grilled polenta with tomato sauce and poached eggs. American 729 SW 15th Ave., 223-6311. $$$ PASTA VELOCE The pastas are simple and light, and the portions are honest. Every bowl of noodles--there are over a dozen choices in all--comes with fresh Parmesan and bruschetta. Standouts include penne alla zucca, a vegetarian mix of butternut squash, spinach and tomatoes, and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, broccoli, tomatoes, Gorgonzola, walnuts and brown butter. Italian 1022 SW Morrison St., 916-4388, 933 SW 3rd Ave., 223-8200 and other locations. $ BIJOU CAFE Now in its 22th year, the Bijou continues its commitment to using organic and local ingredients in its hearty fare, which leans toward healthy. Breakfast specialties include a roast-beef or snapper hash, tofu scramble and whole-wheat quesadillas with a spicy pumpkin-seed, tomatillo and roasted-pepper spread. The Bijou's cheery decor and friendly staff make it an excellent choice for relaxed, non-power dining. American 132 SW 3rd Ave., 222-3187. $$ Suburbs CLARKE'S RESTAURANT Chef Jonathan Clarke's cooking is eclectic, with touches of French and Northwestern. Generally the fish dishes are the best items on the list: The sea bass is perfectly underdone, and its tenderness plays against the crunch of accompanying vegetables. Although the dining area seems more of a tea room than an elegant restaurant, Clarke's makes every effort to serve meals with finesse. French/Northwestern 455 2nd St., Lake Oswego, 636-2667. $$-$$$ GERALDI'S In a city crammed with so-called sandwich shops that serve thin slivers of so-so cold-cuts on lame-ass buns, Geraldi's is a stunning oasis. The hulking hot and cold sandwiches are served on the most superb lowbrow rolls in town--crusty and cantankerous on the outside, pillowy and inviting on the inside. Italian Beaverton Mall, 3205 SW Cedar Hills Blvd., 643-7200; 10000 SW Canyon Road, Beaverton, 297-2590; 2118 NW Glisan St., 224-7919; 6175 SW Lombard Ave., Beaverton, 643-8377; 518 SW 4th Ave., 224-1865. $ HALL STREET GRILL Inside a dining room of ski-lodge capaciousness, a range of interesting dishes is served by a very agreeable staff. Menu hits include mesquite-grilled pork chops in a maple sauce, portobello mushroom ravioli and Hawaiian swordfish with vermouth lemon butter (!) and artichoke tartar. It may be located in an unlikely spot, but this is an inventive restaurant drawing skillfully from a broad palate. Northwest 3375 SW Hall Blvd., Beaverton, 641-6161. $$$-$$$$ HENRY FORD'S RESTAURANT Henry Ford's is a Portland institution that has been around since the '50s and, thankfully, hasn't changed a bit. Architecturally beautiful, the restaurant isn't "retro"--it's historic and mysterious. Friendly, efficient, old-school waiters run the dining room serving classic fare such as prawn cocktail, crab, escargot and porterhouse or New York strip. Dinner comes with biscuits, green salad and baked potato. And where else can you get a side dish of cooked carrots glazed in brown sugar? Old School 9589 SW Barbur Blvd., 245-2434. $$$-$$$$   - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Willamette Week | originally published May 10, 2000