A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest DOGS DIG This veggie deli is a grab-it-and-dash breed of streetside service with a twist: It's vegan lunch central. Order one of the soup specials--always a pleasant daydream. And pray they have prepared the Nairobi pea and yam soup--it's a creamy and smooth combination of sweet orange tubers and soft baby green peas that is capped with a healthy dose of electrifying cumin. All sandwiches at Dogs Dig are served in a brown paper bag half-filled with either pretzels or popcorn--the forgotten children of lunchtime savory snack foods. Vegetarian 212 NW Davis St., 223-3362. Take-out only. $ FONG CHONG Spending an hour at Fong Chong, possibly home to the best dim sum in town, is a fully realized sensory experience. It starts with the click-clack of metal carts containing tasty Chinese appetizers pushed around the tables. Try the floppy rice noodle with its squishy physique that goes down like oysters, and the normy gai, a moist stew of chicken, pork, sausages, mushrooms, sticky rice and bamboo shoots wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf. Chinese 301 NW 4th Ave., 220-0235. $ FRATELLI That an Italian restaurant could open and serve food completely different from all of the other Italian restaurants in Portland is testament to the regional diversity of the boot-shaped peninsula. Fratelli takes advantage of that diversity with a shifting menu featuring gloriously prepared fishes, beautiful meats and juicy pasta. A separate "classics" menu lists recurring favorites such as the crespelle filled with roasted vegetables. If the chesnut crepes are being offered, you must try them. Italian 1230 NW Hoyt St., 241-8800. $$ RICHIE B.'S This new eatery, in the old Gabriel's Bakery spot, offers New York-style sandwiches, pizza and, as a sign near the entrance tells us, "appetites and attitudes." And it delivers on both promises. The hoagie here is called an Italian sub and will set you back a hefty $7.25. It's filled with all the requisite meats and cheeses and resembles a baseball bat when served. This sub is a good thing that could be a great thing with a few alterations.The hot meatball wedge at $6.25 is truly a handful; meatballs the size of fists are smooshed on a long roll, topped with a nice dollop of red sauce and a sprinkling of mozzarella and heated. American 2272 NW Kearney St., 299-1200. $ WILDWOOD Chef and owner Cory Schreiber's culinary understanding of the region is unmatched, and he delivers with metronomic consistency. In 1998, he deservedly shared the prestigious James Beard award for leading chef in the Northwest. Northwestern 1221 NW 21st Ave., 248-9663. $$$-$$$$ Southeast THE AALTO LOUNGE Although the Aalto Lounge is sleeker and more modern than its progenitor, The Vat and Tonsure, it shares the Vat's effortless sophistication and elegant simplicity, as well as an impressive list of wines. The wine list is dominated by good French and Italian wines, with the odd Oregon label thrown in for good measure. The menu offers a simple bruschetta with your choice of prosciutto, avocado or a delicious black olive pesto. For carnivores, there's a salami and pickled vegetable plate as well as a generous plate of bread and lox. The kitchen is also well stocked in cheeses, with a creamy brie, a New Zealand extra sharp cheddar, cambozola, manchego and a particularly hircine chevre. Wine Bar 3356 SE Belmont St., 239-4698. $$ ASSAGGIO Assaggio means a taste or a sampling, and the entire menu is set up around this gracious concept. The highlight of the entree list is a variety of three pastas, selected daily by the chef. If you're not in the mood for small portions, any of the 16 freshly prepared dishes makes a perfect meal all by itself. Italian 7742 SE 13th Ave., 232-6151. $$ BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB Fusion is a concept largely ignored by local Indian restaurants. The Cricket Club takes a swing at it, presenting what amounts to two separate menus, one North Indian, the other Middle Eastern. The Cricket Club is no Saucebox, but the owners' willingness to try something even slightly different should be applauded. Indian/Middle Eastern 1925 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-0740. $$-$$$ CASABLANCA Talk about atmosphere. Step inside Casablanca and you find yourself transported through centuries and across continents to the sultry languor of a sultan's palace, complete with embroidered pillows, brass tables, belly dancing and a sumptuous array of gustatory treats. Morocco has long been a cultural crossroads--the Moors, the Spanish, the Portuguese and the French have all left their mark on its history and cuisine--and the five-course Royal Feast Dinner is probably the best way to explore this exotic heritage. Moroccan 2221 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-4400. $$$ THE EMPIRE ROOM Nicely peppered with unique touches, the light menu is as wide-ranging and carefully conceived as the room itself. Portions are extremely generous--often enough for two--and everything is tastefully garnished and visually rewarding. Try the abundant cheese and fruit plate, or the delicious lox plate with cream cheese, red onion, capers and dill. Eclectic 4260 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 231-9225. $-$$ IL PIATTO Regulars at this homey Italian cafe each have a favorite dish, one that tastes so good they have to order it again and again, even if it means skipping something else that looks almost as delicious. For many, it's the portobello mushrooms in garlic cream with polenta, a blend of robust flavors that tempts eaters to dispense with table manners so they can actually lick the bowl clean. For others it's the crespelle alla ricotta. You decide. Italian 2348 SE Ankeny St., 236-4997. $$$ JARRA'S All Ethiopian, all the time. Stewed beef, lamb, chicken and lentil dishes are served in hot and mild sauces. For the risk-taker, there's Ethiopian steak tartare. Embrace the occasion to eat with your hands. Ethiopian 1435 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 230-8990. $$ LA CATALANA Strong tastes pervade the dishes at La Catalana, the first among Portland's tapas restaurants. Don't miss specialties like the shellfish-packed paella and the kickass potato pie with aioli--you'll never look at scalloped potatoes the same way again. Save room for the caramelized crema Catalana or the house-made lemon ice cream. Spanish 2821 SE Stark St., 232-0948. $$-$$$ LUCKY LABRADOR BREW PUB Don't be afraid because almost everyone in this place looks like they just jumped out of a J. Crew catalog. Lucky Lab is a blur of cotton turtlenecks, rough-hewn wood and fresh-scrubbed cheeks. But that's sorta nice. The menu chalkboard separates the meaty items from veggie: turkey sandwich, BLT, bento à-go-go (the spicy curry can make you cry!). And the beer selection is as colorful as patrons' fleece jackets. Eclectic 915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3555. $ LEGIN Unlike the Mandarin and Szechuan offerings in town, Legin is thoroughly Cantonese. That means that very little on the 300-dish menu is spicy; instead, everything expresses itself with an assist from ginger and garlic sauces. But nothing is ordinary here: seven kinds of shark's fin soup, sea cucumber and frog dishes, as well as clay-pot choices galore. The best offerings, however, come from the specials board and wait-staff suggestions, especially the seasonal seafood. Chinese 8001 SE Division St., 777-2828. $-$$   North/Northeast BEATERVILLE CAFE For less than the price of a '74 Dart wheel cover, you can eat like you're driving a much more stylin' ride. Breakfasts are built around frittata-style omelettes, from the doomed-but-visionary Edsel spuds with bell pepper and cheddar, to the nearly forgotten road king DeSoto, with cheddar, spinach, tomatoes, garlic and bacon. This is basically good, solid diner fare upgraded with decent bread, fresh vegetables, leaf-lettuce salads and extra care in the kitchen. Americana 2201 N Killingsworth St., 735-4652. $ BERNIE'S SOUTHERN BISTRO From its Down South of France name to its crawfish-out-of-water Northeast Alberta Street location, Bernie's Southern Bistro sustains a playful tension between expectation and deliverance. Hearty southern cuisine is given a nouvelle treatment, with results as disconcertingly comforting as a porch bench rocking on unseen gliders. Southern 2904 NE Alberta St., 282-9864. $$-$$$ DU'S GRILL Finding a shorter menu than Du's is not easy; finding better teriyaki or bento is even more difficult. This small storefront grills chicken, beef and pork Korean-style. With your meal comes a mountain of rice and a creditable salad. Kim chee is on the menu if you prefer pickled salad to iceberg. Asian 5365 NE Sandy Blvd., 284-1773. $ HORN OF AFRICA Somalia, Kenya and Djibouti share the eponymous geography of Africa's east coast with the former kingdom of Abyssinia, and the food served at this outpost of a little-known culture reflects flavors from the entire region. Unlike most of the Ethiopian food served in Portland, these dishes are not particularly fiery. If you like it hot, ask for a bit of chutney--a thin blend of cilantro, jalapeño, garlic, vinegar and spices. Abyssinian 3939 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 331-9844. $   Downtown/Southwest BERBATI For most, Berbati means music to the ears, not the belly, but it happens to be one of the city's swingingest spots for great Greek eats. Good Mediterranean cuisine is all about finger food washed down with a few hoists of wine or ouzo (dare ya) and a bitter Greek coffee, and this place does it right. Try to stumble in on a Thursday, when it's belly-dancing night: It aids digestion. Middle Eastern 19 SW 2nd Ave., 226-2122. $$-$$$ BIJOU CAFE Now in its 22th year, the Bijou continues its commitment to using organic and local ingredients in its hearty fare, which leans toward healthy. Breakfast specialties include a roast-beef or snapper hash, tofu scramble and whole-wheat quesadillas with a spicy pumpkin-seed, tomatillo and roasted-pepper spread. The Bijou's cheery decor and friendly staff make it an excellent choice for relaxed, non-power dining. Americana 132 SW 3rd Ave., 222-3187. $$ EL GRILLO This downtown taqueria serves up your favorite cheap South of the Border treats: tacos, burritos, tortas, quesadillas, etc. It's right next door to a strip club, and if you go to use the restaurant's bathroom you'll get a surprising peek of full-frontal nudity. You decide if that's a bonus or not. Mexican 703 SW Ankeny St., 241-0462. $ EL GAUCHO El Gaucho provides a wonderful "dining experience," a combination of service, setting and food that makes you feel particularly blessed. If you want to feel pampered on a special night out, this is the place. Taking advantage of the well-mannered staff, it offers an extensive lineup of tableside preparations. The most dramatic staff performance accompanies delivery of the lamb shish kebab ($24) and Cornish game hen ($18). Both come skewered on shiny sabers, fitted with a silvery pommel and held erect by the server's flameproof fencing glove. A match ignites the warm brandy held in the pommel, and the server flambés the meat on the sword in a fiery show. The real showpieces of the menu, even without any fire, are the steaks. Choose a weight and cut, from the relatively petite 9-ounce filet to the gluttonous 24-ounce porterhouse, and get ready for some serious protein. Steak House 319 SW Broadway, 227-8794. $$$-$$$$ GOOD DOG/BAD DOG Don't believe the hype--hot dogs are still king. The proof? This downtown doghouse is almost always full of lunchtime revelers seeking its quirky atmosphere and true-blue bratwurst, kielbasa, British bangers, sweet Italians, hot Italian and an even hotter Magma dog. Sausages 708 SW Alder St., 222-3410. $ JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH For more than a century, Jake's has been attracting crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Southwest Portland fixture remains especially appealing in a town that can, at times, become a little fusion-happy. Make sure to try a broad plate of the restaurant's still-famous crawfish--your server will certainly show you how to eat them. Seafood 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. $$$-$$$$ NEW SEASONS MARKET A deli is standard issue for a grocery store these days, and the one here is run by Ron Paul alum Eric Rose and former Heathman sous chef Andrew Norby. The offerings include whole chickens roasted on the rotisserie, grilled tombo tuna and meatloaf. At the self-service stir fry, you don't actually step up to the wok. Instead, fill a substantial bowl with your choice of more than 20 items, pick one of a trio of sauces, and wait a few minutes while it's cooked for you. American 7300 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 292-6838. $ PASTA VELOCE The pastas are simple and light, and the portions are honest. Every bowl of noodles--there are over a dozen choices in all--comes with fresh Parmesan and bruschetta. Standouts include penne alla zucca, a vegetarian mix of butternut squash, spinach and tomatoes, and the gnocchi with grilled chicken, broccoli, tomatoes, Gorgonzola, walnuts and brown butter. Italian 1022 SW Morrison St., 916-4388, and 933 SW 3rd Ave., 223-8200. $ THAI PEACOCK This Thai hot spot anchors one of downtown's most oddly shaped and eclectic blocks. And unlike the bird after which it is named, the restaurant's aesthetics--bare pine, a couple of lonely textiles and some nervous-looking aquarium fish--are spartan; the food, however, is as rich and varied as the hues in a peacock's tail. Thai Peacock's greatest strength is curry. Whether green, yellow, red or Penang, the curries here are eggplant-laden bowls of heaven. Thai 219 SW 9th Ave., 228-2310. $ Suburbs CRAZY CHEF SATO The manic chef turns out Japanese and American "fast" food and whips up his own signature teriyaki sauce, which you can buy in bottles at the counter. Burgers and donburi share space on the menu at this cross-cultural diner. Japanese-American 12720 SW Walker Road, Beaverton, 643-8932. $ HALL STREET GRILL Inside a dining room of ski-lodge capaciousness, a range of interesting dishes is served by a very agreeable staff. Menu hits include mesquite-grilled pork chops in a maple sauce, portobello mushroom ravioli and Hawaiian swordfish with vermouth lemon butter (!) and artichoke tartar. It may be located in an unlikely spot, but this is an inventive restaurant drawing skillfully from a broad palate. Northwest 3375 SW Hall Blvd., Beaverton, 641-6161. $$$-$$$$ HENRY FORD'S RESTAURANT Henry Ford's is a Portland institution that has been around since the '50s and, thankfully, hasn't changed a bit. Architecturally beautiful, the restaurant's atmosphere isn't "retro"--it's historic and mysterious. Friendly, efficient, old-school waiters run the dining room, serving classic fare such as prawn cocktail, crab, escargot and porterhouse or New York strip. Dinner comes with biscuits, green salad and baked potato. And where else can you get a side dish of cooked carrots glazed in brown sugar? Old School 9589 SW Barbur Blvd., 245-2434. $$$-$$$$ HIRO SUSHI RESTAURANT You won't find any trendy offerings here like Philadelphia or Spider rolls. Customers tend to be Japanese-Americans or intelligent gaijin who don't require pandering. The seafood is extra fresh, and the attention to preparation is artistic and obsessive. Japanese 6334 SW Meadows Road, Lake Oswego, 684-7521. $$. MERCHANT OF VENICE Back in the early 1990s the Merchant of Venice, known for thoughtful and inexpensive Italian cuisine, occupied a run-down building on Northeast Broadway until gentrification pushed it out. More than four years later and about 15 miles away, the Merchant has been reborn in the award-winning suburban development called Orenco Station and serves up the same homey Italian food. Italian 1341 NE Orenco Station Parkway, Hillsboro, 640-1523. $$