A ROTATING GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS WE LIKE Navigator: Northwest | Southeast | Northeast | Downtown/Southwest | Suburbs $: up to $15 per person, beverage and tip included $$: $25 and under $$$: $35 and under $$$$: above $35 WW reviewers have visited these establishments recently and can recommend them. The restaurant world is squirrely; please call for reservation information and hours. Northwest BAOBAB Baobab is a simple and unpretentious place in the small, comfortable spot where Square Peg--and before that a garage--used to be. The restaurant is filled with artifacts from Senegal, the country that sits on the extreme western bulge of the African continent. The menu is small--several starters, a handful of entrees and a couple of desserts--but includes a range of Senegalese cooking. African 422 NW 8th Ave., 241-0390. $$ PARAGON Chef Peter Dougherty is handy with the fresh, hot and now ingredients, and the menu has some seasonally rotating aspects. The staff is knowledgeable and accommodating, and the dining room is upscale but comfy. American 605 NW 13th Ave., 833-5060. $$-$$$ Southeast ASSAGGIO Assaggio means a taste or a sampling, and the entire menu here is set up around this gracious concept. The highlight of the entree list is a variety of three pastas, selected daily by the chef. If you're not in the mood for small portions, any of the 16 freshly prepared dishes makes a perfect meal all by itself. Italian 7742 SE 13th Ave., 232-6151. $$ CAPRIAL'S BISTRO Caprial's food is decidedly eclectic, often with Asian inflections on western cooking. This place thrives on surprising juxtapositions; who would have thought feta cheese would work with a poblano chili and tomatillo sauce? If you enjoy a mélange of tastes, a kind of gastronomic travelogue within a single dish, this is your spot. Longtime fans (and they are legion) still enjoy choosing their wines from the wall of well-selected bottles and paying a very modest corkage fee, a touch that is one of the best reasons for having a meal here. Eclectic 7015 SE Milwaukie Ave., 236-6457. $$-$$$ J&M CAFE Breakfast at J&M is a savory way to wake up. The high-ceilinged, airy interior is as comforting to the nerves as the carefully prepared dishes are to an empty stomach. If you skipped dinner the night before, you can feast on the black-bean-heavy breakfast burrito, the potatoes (a cheesy pile with salsa and sour cream) or J&M's signature platter of bacon and eggs smothered with fontina, cheddar and Parmesan. American 537 SE Ash St., 230-0463. $ LA CATALANA Strong tastes pervade the dishes at La Catalana, the first among Portland's tapas restaurants. Don't miss specialties like the shellfish-packed paella and the kickass potato pie with aioli--you'll never look at scalloped potatoes the same way again. Save room for the caramelized crema Catalana or the house-made lemon ice cream. Spanish 2821 SE Stark St., 232-0948. $$-$$$ LEGIN Unlike the Mandarin and Szechuan offerings in town, Legin is thoroughly Cantonese. That means very little on the 300-dish menu is spicy; everything expresses itself with an assist from ginger and garlic sauces. But nothing is ordinary: There are seven kinds of shark's fin soup, sea cucumber and frog dishes, as well as clay-pot choices galore. The best offerings, however, come from the specials board and waitstaff suggestions, especially the seasonal seafood. Chinese 8001 SE Division St., 777-2828. $-$$ 3 DOORS DOWN CAFE 3 Doors Down is a treasure: a tiny, stylish bistro unassumingly tucked between a strip of shops off ever-frenetic Hawthorne Boulevard. An all-time fave dish is the penne with vodka sauce, a slow-simmered gravy of plum tomatoes, cream, chili flakes, vodka and Italian sausage. Space is tight, and the cafe doesn't take reservations, but the staff is one of the friendliest around and will take care of you as quickly as possible. Italian 1429 SE 37th Ave., 236-6886. $$ North/Northeast BURGERVILLE With more than 35 Burgerville restaurants in Oregon and Washington (and more all the time), it's safe to assume that there's a population of true-blue fans out there who already know the wonders of Burgerville. They know how B-ville uses real Tillamook cheddar on its sandwiches instead of that neon stuff that dries like cement. They know B-ville puts specials in rotation depending on the season, so you get Oregon morel/porcini mushroom burgers in the fall and farm-picked strawberry shortcake in the summer. These people in the know are the ones who come back from lunch licking the last remains of MacTarnahan's Cod & Chips from their fingers with the sweet taste of the Portland Brewing-infused batter still on their lips. American 1135 NE MLK Jr. Blvd., 235-6858; various other locations. $ COUNTY CORK PUBLIC HOUSE When it comes to Irish food, County Cork takes a different approach. Rather than ersatz Irish dishes, this pub offers real flavor along with the Guinness. There's an Irish theme, of course: Bangers and mash combines grilled sausages and garlic mashed potatoes, and a cold plate of Irish cheddar, hard-boiled egg, pickled onions, sliced apple, dill pickles and a wedge of soda bread called the ploughman's platter purports to be a "traditional Irish workman's lunch." But the burgers, fries and clam chowder are just like what owner Jeanie Subotnick used to make when she ran Shakers. Irish 1329 NE Fremont St., 284-4805. $$ CANNON'S RIB EXPRESS There's barely enough room for three people to stand at the counter in this tiny rib joint, but that doesn't stop a line from forming around dinner time. Smoke pours from the 55-gallon drums out front, and you can taste it in the meaty pork and beef ribs. Southern 3328 NE Killingsworth St., 288-3836. $ CHEZ WHAT? Chez What? is a quirky place to load up on cheap eats with friends. Breakfasts lean heavily on hearty egg-and-potato combos; a standout is Gigi's eggs, which come scrambled with red onion, garlic, mushrooms, zucchini, broccoli, spinach, dried tomatoes, feta and scallions. Lunch and dinner choices are equally filling. Burgers, both beef and veggie, can be enhanced by the gnarly mix of grilled onions, garlic, mushroom, peppers and jalapeños. Save room for dessert, a changing menu of candy-bar-based concoctions. American 2203 NE Alberta St., 281-1717. $ PAPARAZZI PASTAFICIO The earth-toned interior at this upscale Italian restaurant is a soul-soothing oasis augmented by unpretentious, familial service. The menu mostly draws on the food of the Mezzogiorno--southern Italy's sun-kissed realms. The thin, fast-cooked and rib-sticking pizza scarfed by the ton in Naples leads the antipasto roster; a respectable set of husky risottos and gnocchi augment the joint's pasta/ravioli core. Try something that includes shrimp--and if you order a full dinner, the Caesar salad is far more interesting than the mixed green. Italian 2015 NE Broadway, 281-7701. $$$ RUSTICA ITALIAN CAFFE Rustica is a good spot for appetizers and wine before movies at the Lloyd Center or for full-blown leisurely meals. The solid offerings are everything you would expect from a neighborhood Italian place, and more. Italian 1700 NE Broadway, 288-0990. $$$ Downtown/Southwest BIJOU CAFE The Bijou continues its commitment to using organic and local ingredients in its hearty fare, which leans toward healthy. Breakfast specialties include a roast-beef or snapper hash, tofu scramble and whole-wheat quesadillas with a spicy pumpkin-seed, tomatillo and roasted-pepper spread. The Bijou's cheery decor and friendly staff make it an excellent choice for relaxed, non-power dining. American 132 SW 3rd Ave., 222-3187. $$ COUVRON Since opening in 1995, chef Anthony Demes and manager Maura Jarach already have established a French restaurant worthy of a growing number of local and national awards. Demes regularly outdoes himself with vertical, rococo creations Jean-Paul Gaultier would admire. The service is impeccable, and every dish here is an event worth experiencing. French 1126 SW 18th Ave., 225-1844. $$$$ EL GRILLO This downtown taqueria serves up your favorite cheap South of the Border treats: tacos, burritos, tortas, quesadillas, etc. It's right next door to a strip club, and if you go to use the restaurant's bathroom you'll get a surprising peek of full-frontal nudity. You decide if that's a bonus or not. Mexican 703 SW Ankeny St., 241-0462. $ JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH For more than a century, Jake's has attracted crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff. The Southwest Portland fixture remains especially appealing in a town that can, at times, become a little fusion-happy. Make sure to try a broad plate of the restaurant's still-famous crawfish--your server will certainly show you how to eat them. Seafood 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. $$$-$$$$ PORTLAND STEAK AND CHOPHOUSE The tony decor, intimate booths, low lighting and hyper-attentive service make this the kind of place where power brokers and expense-account people can get comfy. But even better, the food is outstanding and unapologetically retro. Whether it's porterhouse, New York, sirloin, chicken, veal or fish, the portions are large and of fine quality. American 121 SW 3rd Ave., 223-6200. $$$ RED STAR TAVERN AND ROAST HOUSE Rarely does homey food enjoy as grand a stage as the hearty spit-roasted meats and fried okra at Red Star Tavern and Roast House. There's no whiff of Delta Cafe whimsy here, and not all the cuisine is influenced by the bayou, but chef Rob Pando's Louisiana leaning is evident. Red Star's actual menu is oddly chatty--appetizers fall under the heading, "To begin, think big, start small..." and, moving on to salads, "Next step, it's a doozy..."--but once you've experienced the étouffée, it doesn't really matter. American 503 SW Alder St., 222-0005. $$$$ Suburbs CLARKE'S RESTAURANT Chef Jonathan Clarke's cooking is eclectic, with touches of French and Northwestern. Generally the fish dishes are the best items on the list: The sea bass is perfectly underdone, and its tenderness plays against the crunch of accompanying vegetables. Although the dining area seems more like a tea room than an elegant restaurant, Clarke's makes every effort to serve meals with finesse. French/Northwestern 455 2nd St., Lake Oswego, 636-2667. $$-$$$ LATE NIGHT DOTS CAFE The epicenter of collegiate cool, Dots is the place to scratch your itch for decorative kitsch and observe trendus hipstera in its natural environment. Like the thrift-score decor, the menu at Dots hasn't changed over time; simple burgers, sandwiches and Mexican food keep the kids coming around, so why change it? Nurse your hangover in this shadowy den with a $1.25 Rainier pounder. When your stomach is ready for food, stick to the classic bacon cheeseburger or, for the more organic-loving types, the Vegan Vavoom, which features a pita and falafel with spicy tofu sauce for $4. A black-bean burrito is another popular option, but stay away from the heavy-handed pollo platter--the excessive spicing fails to disguise its overall blandness. American/Eclectic 2521 SE Clinton St., 235-0203. 11 am-1:30 am daily. $ ACROPOLIS It's an endless parade of meat at the Acropolis, and we're not talking about the dancers. The meaty burgers start at a whopping full pound and swell up to huge--the Acropolis Colossal Burger is almost dangerous. A 16-ounce sirloin with mushrooms and potato is only $8. If your arteries still aren't begging for mercy, burst your aorta with a 10--count 'em--egg omelette for a mere $5. There is a salad bar on the premises, but one doesn't succumb to the Acropolis' call for food and flesh out of a desire to stay healthy. Give in to your animal side. Flesh 8325 SE McLoughlin Blvd., 231-9611. 11:30 am-2:30 am daily. $ FELLINI Fellini offers some of the yummiest food for your tummy at a price even a musician can afford. And the urban-chic artwork won't make gourmets feel like they're slumming. The recent New York steak special was deliciously crispy on the outside and juicy inside, while the sweet sautéed mushrooms and bulbous potato added a touch of healthiness. The Alf chicken rocks with penne, rosemary cream sauce and perfectly spiced slivers of meat. True masochists go for Fernando's Heart Stopper (two 1/3-pound burgers with cheese, bacon and fries) and veggie-heads like the happy times platter (mushrooms, onion and pecan with cream sauce and grilled polenta). Eclectic 125 NW 6th Ave., 243-2120. 11:30 am-2:30 am Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 am-3 am Sundays, 5 pm-3 am Saturdays, 5 pm-2:30 am Sundays. $