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HIP-HOP COLUMN

In the Hairdresser's Chair

BY H.V. CLAYTOR JR.
243-2122 EXT 344


If I am shaven, then my strength will leave me, and I shall become weak, and be like any other man.

--Judges 16:17

Album of the Week:
Emotional
, Carl Thomas.
If you don't know, now you know.

Songs of the Week:
"Cherchez LaGhost," Ghostface Killah. Dope, dope, dope.

"What It Ain't," Goodie Mob w/ TLC.The joint is speaking the truth.

 


Charles Oakley stared at my hair during a brief interview I conducted back in March. When I stopped taping, he asked, "Who braided your hair?"

"A friend of mine," I replied.

"She did a nice job."

Too bad more Americans don't share Oakley's appreciation for the artistry of a fine set of cornrows. Hip-hop personalities and NBA stars have showcased the many possibilities of this quintessentially black hairstyle in recent years--often, the 'rows of Latrell Sprewell and Allen Iverson get as much attention as their games. Still, people base all kinds of assumptions on the braids, usually deeming their wearers to be thuggish. For every compliment, there's a furtive glance from someone who's shook. On a good day, you might even draw the unwanted attention of the ruffians in blue.

When I need my wig beautified, I drop by Toni Hill's crib. She's hardly a hairdresser by profession. In fact, Hill's one of Portland hip-hop's shining jewels. When she's not rocking a show with Hungry Mob or the Chosen (or studying for mid-terms), Miss Hill marks a few domes with her ill signature patterns--and she knows the cultural importance of what, to many, appears to be nothing more than a hairstyle.

"We're dealing with a history of people who want to stereotype and want to make you think wearing braids is a negative," she said recently as she pulled and tugged at my scalp. "I feel like it's a bonding experience. We are an oral culture, so the time spent is one of talking and getting to know one another."

Over the course of a year, I have heard, and witnessed at times, the struggles Hill faces in her efforts to put out a solo album in a male-dominated industry. She has the ability to sit in the studio, listen to an instrumental and write a song in less than an hour. But Hill hasn't found cats able to produce the sounds she desires.

Worse, local companies have offered contracts with no executive production credits, weak money situations and long-term commitments. She's turned them all down. She says she wants to work with professionals who recognize her gifts as a singer, songwriter and producer and are dedicated to realizing her talent, not trying to sex her up.

"Men devalue what you do," she says. "They only want you to sing a hook and that's it. They don't realize you can do a whole project."

Even though she says it often seems like no one is really down to work with her as an equal, she maintains a positive attitude.

"I wanna do my own thing," Toni said after snapping a band on the twelfth braid. "I want to show a side of the music I'm not able to express with other groups I work with."

It would be a detriment to us all if our only taste of Hill's artistry comes courtesy of the designs on my head.


 

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Willamette Week | originally published May 10, 2000

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