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well-adjusted
Bra fitters, like breasts, are not created equal.

BY CHRISTINA MELANDER
melander@wweek.com

photo by Basil Childers


Think you know your breasts better than anyone else? Don't be too sure. It only takes a professional bra fitter a quick once-over with practiced eyes and a flick of her measuring tape to size up your bra needs.

A professional bra fitter? Think about it. Bra sizing wasn't taught in sex ed, and the mother, sister or friend who showed you the ropes was probably wearing an ill-fitting brassiere herself.

It's probably not a career choice you considered in high school, but major makers of intimate apparel such as Bali, Olga and Playtex train women as personal bra specialists and send them to department stores to help shoppers find a better fit. Meier & Frank offers this service, buttressed by the expertise of its venerable, in-house foundations specialist, Pat Michaud. Nordstrom schools its own lingerie sales associates in undergarment engineering, and the staff at Jane's Obsession and Jane's Vanity provide less scientific fittings. I turned my breasts over to expert hands at these establishments; here's an assessment of their woman-handling.

MEIER & FRANK
You might think a fitting for foundations at Meier & Frank would be an experience about as gloomy as the downtown store's building. It was actually pretty cool.

I cajoled a friend into accompanying me for moral support. Measurements revealed that one of us is between a 34-D and 36-C, the other a solid 34-A. I'm not telling who is who. Judy O'Leary, from Bali/Wonderbra, instantly put us at ease. Trip after trip, she returned to the fitting room with armfuls of bras (fitters trained by bra makers only offer ones made by the parent company) and helped us try them on.

She gave us try-on hints--once the bra is secured, lean over to let your breasts fall into the cup correctly (useful to the busty gal, meaningless to the 34-A)--and reminded us that lined (not padded) cups alleviate the noticeable-nipple quandary raised by thin summer fabrics. She assured us that new nylon blends, which at first appear wrinkly, become smooth once warmed by body heat. We also learned that Wonderbra makes a whole slew of bras that don't push up and create cleavage; many are without padding.

Company representatives make store visits only a couple of times each year, but Pat Michaud is there year-round. For seven years, Michaud has been helping women into bras at Meier & Frank. Her formula for a good fit is equal parts tact, knowledge and keen vision--the ability to judge a woman's size just by looking at her. Michaud fits women who have had mastectomies or reconstructive surgery and deals with other delicate issues: "You have to be tactful when little girls come in and go straight for the demi-cups, but they're a size triple-A. I just tell them to come back and see me in a few years."

Merchandise specialists visit Meier & Frank once every spring and fall; Bali comes three times a year. Pat Michaud is available by appointment at all of Meier & Frank's Portland locations, 241-5138.

JANE'S VANITY AND JANE'S OBSESSION
The clerks at Jane's fit bras the way some gourmets cook, eschewing steadfast methodology for trial and error. Therefore it's best to visit Jane's once you're sure of your size. You will need to rely on the staff, though, for help in translating European sizes--virtually everything here is imported. Though the sales people don't offer much hands-on assistance, they do know their inventory and are able to wax intelligent about garments with names you can't even pronounce.

These two stores unequivocally stock the most exquisite and expensive boudoir vestments in town. The gorgeous lingerie is easy to imagine on the body of Brigitte Bardot. Determining if it will fit yours is another matter.

Jane's Vanity, 521 SW Broadway, 241-3860; Jane's Obsession, 728 NW 23rd Ave., 221-1490. Alterations available.

NORDSTROM
I dragged my sister to this one, and thank god! For 10 years she's been wearing size 36-B bras, but it turns out she's actually a 34-C. Amazingly, many women don't know their true bra size. Patty Hutchinson, lingerie manager of the downtown Nordstrom, remarked that eight out of 10 women are wearing the wrong bra size.

Measuring just below where the curve begins, our salesperson, Andrea Potts, added three to five inches to the number on the tape measure to ascertain the correct band size. Cup size is eyeballed and often fluctuates with the brand and style of bra.

At Nordstrom, the entire lingerie staff is given a thorough education in bra mechanics. Nordstrom's Northwest region fit coordinator Stacey Ellis visits the Portland area about once a month and whenever a new salesperson needs to be trained. Ellis uses models with various body types to demonstrate fitting and spends a full day with green associates, walking through customer sessions. Nordstrom's commitment to training shows: Potts is an adept problem solver. She hunted down bras with straps that don't slip and bras that are virtually invisible under close-fitting tops.

The great thing about any skilled personal fitter is her ability to get you into something you never would have tried on your own. My sister was leery of padded bras, reasoning that she already had enough up there, but with Potts' help, she found a lined bra that provides superior structure without screaming va-va-vavoom. Besides, as Andrea puts it, "Sometimes you just want something between you and the world, a little barrier."

Bra fittings are offered at all Nordstrom locations; no appointment necessary.


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Willamette Week | originally published May 26, 1999


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