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Something Special In The Air

Does airline food leave you as stuffed and leaden as an overpacked carry-on? A barf bag isn't the only remedy.

BY LIZ BROWN
243-2122, ext. 325

photo by Basil Childers

You know the feeling: You're crammed into a tiny airline seat with your knees up to your chin somewhere between Points A and B. You've already perused the dull in-flight mag, chugged your six-ounce beverage, eaten your peanuts and numbed yourself to the screams of the pesky kid behind you. Ravaged by hunger and boredom, you contemplate eating your own hand until a vision of hope appears: a flight attendant pushing a metal cart up the aisle. It's dinner time, airline style. Your tray table goes down faster than a ValuJet DC-9.

The beige tray might contain a soap-dish full of sloppy lasagna or a lukewarm breakfast burrito. Usually there's a prepackaged, stale roll of some sort. The typical salad consists of translucent iceberg lettuce, occasional flecks of carrot and a gratuitous pale tomato slice. Sure it's disappointing, but what choice do you have?

Believe it or not, eating en route doesn't have to be so disheartening. Most major airlines now offer a variety of special meals, even for us cattle flying coach. Diabetic, Hindu, vegan, kosher and low-fat are only some of the choices that can be had at no extra charge on flights with meal service. All it takes is a simple phone call at least 24 hours in advance. Ask the reservation agent what's available and what items your meal might contain.

Besides getting food you actually enjoy, eschewing the heaviness of the usual selection is a plus. Foods high in fat and protein can leave you listless by the time you arrive at the gate. Customary main dishes are often high in salt, resulting in water retention that can make you feel as bloated as an inflatable seat cushion.

But if you order ahead, you can avoid all this. While fellow passengers choke down assembly-line breakfast, lunch or dinner, a steward will call out your name--as a butler announces a VIP--then pass you a confidential, cellophane-wrapped tray bearing your name and prepared expressly for your picky self. Curious neighbors will crane their necks to see what's going on. For that moment, you are special.

Here's a sampling of what some major airlines offer:

UNITED AIRLINES
The list of options is impressive. There are four vegetarian plates alone: lacto-ovo (for those who eat dairy and eggs), vegan (no animal products whatsoever), Indian vegetarian (think curry, carrots and potatoes) and Asian vegetarian. Medical meals include diabetic, gluten-free, low-fat and low-cholesterol, non-lactose, low-calorie, high-fiber, bland (no joke, it's for those with digestive diseases), low-protein and low-sodium. Religious meals, including kosher, Moslem and Hindu, are also available. Four children's meals, as well as Asian, seafood, chicken, fruit plate and salad dishes round out the diverse mix. (I'll pass on the McDonald's Friendly Skies Meal.) Many of the options are heart-healthy, containing 30 percent or fewer calories from total fat, 10 percent or fewer calories from saturated fat, 150 mg or fewer of cholesterol and no more than 1,100 mg of sodium. Martin Yan, of Yan Can Cook fame, and other respected chefs helped develop standard menus here, so there's bound to be something palatable (if not entirely healthful), even on the basic tray.

CONTINENTAL AIRLINES
All the special meals offered, except for the kids' meals, limit fat to 30 percent or fewer of calories, with 20 percent or fewer of calories derived from protein and 50 to 60 percent from carbohydrates. Continental offers many of the same medical meals as United does, but no low-protein or bland options. Hindu, kosher and Moslem, three vegetarian platters, fruit and seafood are also available. Low-fat meals incorporate some of the following: fish, citrus fruits, fresh veggies, low-fat cheese, lean meats, low-fat yogurt, oat bran, rice, skim milk, bread and olive oil. Asian vegetarian meals might include tofu, rice, veggies and fresh fruit. A fruit plate might include melon wedges, orange slices and grapes, as well as a bagel and cream cheese or cereal for breakfast. Shrimp with cocktail sauce, a roll and raw cucumber and tomato slices or a green salad make up an average seafood plate.

NORTHWEST AIRLINES
In addition to the basic medical, religious and healthy special meals, Northwest offers simple and healthful à la carte breakfasts. Passengers choose from prepackaged muffins, bagels, bananas, yogurt, cold cereal, orange juice and coffee. In addition to getting complex carbohydrates for energy, you bypass the grease, sugar and salt common in a typical airline breakfast of, say, limp French toast and slimy sausage links. If you're not hungry when they dole out the goods, stash the bagel or banana for that upcoming layover. Gate buffets offer passengers these options in a bag upon boarding in select cities. Sulfite-free meals and peanut-free foods for those with allergies can be ordered as well.

ALASKA AIRLINES
The selection here isn't as vast as other airlines, but Alaska does have worthwhile options. Bland, diabetic, low-sodium, low-fat and low-cholesterol, low-calorie, kosher, vegetarian, children's and fruit-plate meals are available on all flights with meal service. A typical low-cholesterol breakfast includes a bran muffin with margarine and jelly, orange slices, seedless grapes, a mushroom omelette made with Egg Beaters, one broccoli floret and tomato slices.

Of course, ordering a special meal doesn't guarantee that you'll get great food. On a recent Alaska Airlines flight, my vegan meal consisted of a second-rate, unadorned veggie burger on a dry white bun, a tiny paper cup of flavorless, soggy noodles and about ten raisins. To be safe, you can always opt for the reliable fruit plate or brown-bag it.

Snacks such as Clif Bars, low-salt pretzels, low-fat yogurt, fruit or a bag of baby carrots will console the health-conscious. A simple sandwich can be a lifesaver. Stay hydrated in the midst of all that dry, stale air; bottled water is a must. Bring your own, since those beverage services never seem to be there when you need them.

By planning ahead for your next trip, you'll be able to avoid gastrointestinal turbulence and feel energetic enough to move freely about the cabin.

 
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Willamette Week | originally published August 11, 1999


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