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REVIEW
Take Me to the River
The Gorge is one of the best places in the world to windsurf--if you can figure out how.

BY IAN B. R. GILLINGHAM
igillingham@wweek.com

Windsurfing schools at Port Marina Park, Hood River (I-84 east, exit 64): Rhonda Smith Windsurfing Center, (541) 386-9463, www.gorge.net/
windsurf/rhondas
. Beginner lessons $125 for two sessions, others $75-$85.

Brian's Windsurfing School,
(541) 386-5413. Lessons
$60-$75.

Big Winds,
(541) 386-6086, www.bigwinds.com. Lessons $49-$59.

To watch the experts catching serious air, cross the Columbia River at the Hood River marina and head 3.7 miles west to the federal Spring Creek Fish Hatchery, known as "the Hatch."

After a hard afternoon on the water, treat yourself to a milkshake made with fresh marionberry ice cream at Mike's Ice Cream,
504 Oak St., Hood River,
(541) 386-6260.

 
By its nature, windsurfing encourages a kind of dogged individualism. Ever since a sailing mast was first grafted to a surfboard in the mid-1960s, windsurfing has attracted people who want to go one-on-one with the wind. Like religious belief or an IRS return, surfing entails an accommodation with a greater power. Whether you're screaming through a monster curl or planing crosswind, the guiding principle is not far from what you might find in a self-help book: You can't control external forces; you can only control how you respond to them.

Last month, as I took to the Columbia River Gorge with my sailboard and rig for the first time this year, I wondered how much of the technique I'd remember. Launching from the shallow waters, I felt the exhilarating rush of the ride as I sliced through the water, heading toward the middle of the river. Then I tried to turn around, arcing into the wind, and found that even the rudimentary tacking maneuver I'd learned last summer had abandoned me. Splashing down, clambering back up, I tried again and again, to no avail.

It was time for a refresher course.

Last summer, at the Hook, a sheltered cove in the Columbia at Hood River, I took a couple of lessons, learning the basics of the beach-start (sailing from shallow water), tack (turning around toward the wind) and jibe (turning around away from the wind). Still, I've always assumed that I'd learn most just messing around on the water, figuring it out as I went.

The Rhonda Smith Windsurfing Center knows my type. "There are two common ways to learn to windsurf: trial-and-error or lessons," its brochure reads. "It can mean the difference between wet and wild, or fun and relaxing." I signed up for "Beginning Shortboard I: Fast Tack," which gathers at Port Marina Park in Hood River.

As you enter Port Marina Park, the road curves though a broad lawn, on which three small shacks are clustered. Each of these shacks is home to a different windsurfing school--and each embodies a different aspect of windsurfing culture.

In the first hut, next to the parking lot, are the gearheads. Big Winds has a retail shop in Hood River and attracts people who are looking for equipment with the latest whiz-bang technology. The school distinguishes itself by offering high-performance equipment from such makers as Mistral, F2, North and several custom boardcrafters.

Next door to Big Winds, Brian's Windsurfing School offers what might be called the "charismatic master" approach. Brian Schurton, the school's director, has been sailing for 22 years. Among the windheads out on the marina's launching beach--and even among the other schools' intructors--he is admired for his skill and hands-on style. Kathy Hanley of Santa Barbara, Calif., a wind-chaser hitting her third mecca this year, says, "Brian has a passion for the sport, and it really shows."

Her husband, Ed Csapo, adds, "Some instructors will be yelling to you from the beach; Brian's out there in the water with you, hanging from the rig, showing you how it's done."

In the last hut are the methodists. Rhonda Smith's windsurfing school, founded by the five-time world champion in 1990, prides itself on bringing a consistent, methodical approach to windsurfing instruction. Cliff Ryder, a teacher at Rhonda's, says there is no standardized certification available beyond the beginner-level stamp of approval offered by the U.S. Sailing Association, so Rhonda's training program for intermediate and advanced students is respected. "Our instructors can call up Aruba and get a job," Ryder says.

Identifying my own preference was simple: I didn't need another guru or the latest gear. I needed the technique, and Rhonda's was ready to teach me.

One recent Wednesday, I scrutinized the surface of the Columbia as I drove eastward, looking for any sign of the famous westerlies of the Columbia River Gorge. Too many times, I'd planned a windsurfing day only to find the river with a skin of glass. Just the Saturday before, too-light winds had forced me to settle for the dry-land simulator next to Rhonda's shack. Jenny Naftulin, a 20-year-old University of Vermont student, launched into the method of the fast tack, an upwind turning maneuver for high winds. She demonstrated the steps with fluidity, grabbing the mast with one hand, angling it back, crouching on the board, arranging her feet in a V-stance and, finally, stepping back on the board and throwing the mast forward. It had been a simple procedure to imitate, as was the pivot jibe, the maneuver for turning the board away from the wind--at least when I was on dry land. In the water, though, it was another story.

At the Hook, where the schools do much of their instruction, the wind was gusty, blowing up to 23 knots and then dying to almost nothing. With Jenny watching, I launched myself from the shallow waters and headed out. Smoothly, as if on autopilot, I grabbed the mast, angled it back and crouched on the board--then the wind died, I lost my balance and I splashed into the river.

Learning to windsurf was turning out to be like evolution in reverse: I'd start out standing erect, stoop to pull up the sail--and end up in the water. But I kept scrambling back onto the board, and over the next hour and a half--with Jenny on a board nearby, calling out, "Crouch lower!" "Get into your V faster!" and "Try not to fall in so much!"--I battled the gusts and began to nail the upwind turn. When I finally completed a fast tack and headed for shore, even the winds seemed to think I'd learned my lesson: Riding a brawny breeze, I hooked my harness into the rig, bent my legs and leaned back toward the water's surface, balancing my solidity against the power of air. For a few moments, I just enjoyed the breeze on my neck and the sun on the water, letting the wind carry me along. Then I unhooked, adjusted my stance and went to work on the pivot jibe.
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Willamette Week | originally published August 25, 1999

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