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BY BROOKE DENISCO |
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Central Oregon's Highway 97 is a gateway to recreation, but the actual drive is an entertainment of its own, bringing you past depressing pockets of Americana, gorgeous fields of fragrant sagebrush, diffused sunsets and freezing lakes and rivers. Along the way, yard sales, taquerias and farms full of cute baby sheep could divert your attention enough to double the time of your trip. One rarely experiences the range of environmental changes found in Oregon's high desert. You could very well find use for a bathing suit, a Gore-Tex jacket, sunscreen and a fleece coat in the course of one day. Smith Rock State Park is the first real destination you'll hit driving southeast from Portland along 97. When you arrive, desert your automobile immediately: The air there cures carsickness and crampy legs in 15 minutes or less. The area, which features leisurely walking trails and harrowing cliffs, could accurately be renamed Takes All Types State Park. Smith is known as a favorite stop for technical rock climbers; the volcanic tuff and rhyolite cliffs feature some of the country's most challenging technical climbing. In sharp contrast, the gurgling Crooked River and a mellow walking path through wildflowers and sage fringe the sheer walls. The result is a natural border community as specific as an estuary or canyon. Monkey Face, a 400-foot column, hosts Smith's hallmark climbing routes, including the world-famous, exceedingly difficult Just Do It (rated 5.14 on a scale of 5 to 5.14). Beginners will find plenty of easier 5.6-5.8 routes to work on. Rockhard Climbing Gear (9297 NE Crooked River Drive, [541] 548-4786) sells guidebooks right outside the park's entrance. Bring Band-Aids: Smith's sharp, tiny hand and footholds have been known to pierce uncallused skin. In addition to the hike along the banks of the Crooked, 3.3 miles east of the park sign on Highway 97 is the trailhead of a 6.6-mile hike around the park that heads past Monkey Face and gains 900 feet in elevation. After a stay at the Smith Rock Campground, continue south on 97 to Bend. Every winter, Bend becomes the Mount Bachelor ski stop--shuttle buses take you from your Bend Motel 6 to Bachelor's Lift 6 every morning. During the snowless months, mountain biking becomes the sport of choice, as it does in most ski towns. On a longer trip, Bend can be used for a much-needed mental and physical rest day. There's metropolis-quality coffee at Highland Grounds, several bowling alleys, good thrift stores for used sporting equipment and above-average beer and grilled chicken sandwiches at the Deschutes Brewery. The Deschutes River runs through the town park, convenient for a quick dip before reading or napping on the grass beach. Using Bend as an extended rest stop, grocery run and caffeine/alcohol hole should give you the boost you need for 97's next offering, 11 miles south: Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument. The region's abundant lava carved out mountains and swirling valleys, where you can still trace the flow of molten material. Once you enter the park, there are tons of campgrounds, ranging from rural private sites to ones with lakeside parking for your RV and Jet Ski. For $7-$14 a night, you'll find an open site somewhere in the park. Powerboaters of any sort will find heaven in Newberry. The park is bordered by two calderas, East Lake and Paulina Lake. Hikers and bikers will be pleased as well. Stop at the visitors center at the park entrance for trail maps. One moderate scenic hike ends at the top of Newberry Crater. The landscape ranges from high desert Ponderosa (bring insect repellent--the mosquito population is thriving this year) to dusty and lunar. Even on a weekend, the route isn't that crowded. From the summit, views of the Cascade Range and both lakes more than compensate for your sweat. In addition to the four-mile hike to the peak, a 22-mile trail traverses the whole crater and is best done on a mountain bike. If you're not quite ready for your trip to end, you can find more rest and relaxation--and a little golf--on the way home. Head back north from Newberry for about 20 minutes to the resort town of Sunriver. People considering buying property in Celebration, Fla., might want to prime themselves here first. The family-oriented Lodge at Sunriver Resort ([541] 593-4405) will seem pretty goofy to most folks under 40, but staying in a $150 condo (and you can fit about a dozen people in one) assures you VIP status at the exclusive Crosswater golf course, which was featured in a recent Golf Digest article. Two swimming pools, rental tandem mountain bikes, a driving range, hot tubs and primo cable help ease you back into city living. The rest of the 3-1/2 hour drive home probably won't seem quite as charming as it did at the beginning of the trip. Be sure to stock up on tapes and aloe vera gel for your sunburn, and don't worry, there's a Dairy Queen in almost every town along the way.
originally published September 23 , 1998
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