The arteries of our Pacific Northwest highways and byways
are clogged with more fast-food crap than Elvis' colon after
a fried peanut butter, bacon and banana sandwich bender.
Drive-thru, mega-munching McMachines provide roadsters with
three basic items: a roadside breather, a bit of nourishment
and very little flavor.
But don't despair, my weary travelers. If you have a few
extra minutes on your itinerary, a good sense of direction
and a nose for fine food, you're bound to find restaurants
that cater to your inner gourmand and give you more
than a 99-cent menu and a happy meal.
Here is our short list of a few spots you may want to check
out whether you go south, north or west of Portland.
GOING COASTAL
The Ark Restaurant and Bakery
For 20 years now, the Ark has dazzled coastal diners and
visitors alike with delicious delights from the sea and
spectacular items from their bakery. Regional Northwest
cuisine with a creative bent is the Ark's mainstay. Don't
be a dummy--make sure you pick anything that includes oysters,
which the Ark people deliver from their own oyster beds,
and local fish dishes such as salmon and Columbia River
sturgeon. The Ark's bakery is legendary for decadent and
indigenous desserts. (Nahcotta, Wash., 273rd Sand Ridge
Road on the Nahcotta dock, [360] 665-4133. Dinner Thursday-Saturday,
brunch Sunday. Expensive. Head to Astoria and cross the
Astoria Bridge. Take Highway 103
to Nahcotta.)
WINE COUNTRY
Tina's
Don't blink or you just might miss one of Dundee's hottest
spots: Tina's. A bastion of good cooking comes courtesy
of namesake Tina and David Bergen. Tina's is able to attract
an upscale crowd to the down-home cafe, and the Bergens
are experts in the delicate balance of pairing farm-fresh
ingredients with exceptional wines. In the fall, expect
to find heavier dishes such as braised rabbit with creamy
polenta and chanterelles, as well as a caramelized onion
risotto under a boneless duck breast. Soups (such as a roasted
squash) and desserts will also reflect the season. (Dundee,
760 Highway 99W, [503] 538-8880. Dinner daily. Expensive.
Take I-5 south to 99W and head straight to Dundee.)
Joel Palmer House
This is the beautifully historic home of mushroom king
Jack Czarnecki. The author of A Cook's Book of Mushrooms
and recent James Beard House presenter,
Czarnecki loves fungi and it shows. The place even offers
a mushroom-based dessert. No hallucinogens were harmed in
the
creation of this restaurant.
(Dayton, 600 Ferry St., [503] 864-2995. Lunch Tuesdays-Fridays,
dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays. Closed Sunday-Monday. Expensive.
Highway 99W to Highway 18, take Dayton exit.)
DOWN SOUTH
New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro
Despite numerous drawbacks such as its dinky size, weird-ass
name and easy-to-drive-by location, for the past decade
New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro has been considered one of the
best restaurants in the Rogue Valley region. Dishes on the
menu at this smallish six-table space are scratch-made from
organically grown produce and other fresh, local and seasonal
ingredients, giving each entree a decidedly hometown flavor.
On the other hand, the outrageous wine list is larger than
most big-city joints--at last count it was at least 500
strong.
(Talent, 2210 S Pacific Highway, [541] 535-2779. Dinner
Thursday-Sunday. Expensive. Call for directions and reservations.)
NORTHERN EXPOSURE
Wild Ginger Asian Restaurant
The knife-wielding crew at this Asian eatery, close to
Seattle's waterfront, are experts at the art of eating small.
This place was home to the nation's very first U-shaped
satay bar and skewer station, and it's easy to get excited
about their cooked-on-the-spot sizzling scallops, portobello
mushrooms, beef, chicken and boar.
(Seattle, 1401 3rd Ave., [206] 623-4450. Lunch Monday-Saturday,
dinner daily. Expensive. I-5 north to Seattle, take the
Seneca Street exit and head toward the waterfront.)
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