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Way
beyond Bagels
We check
out breakfast--upscale, downscale, all around the town.
BY CHRISTINA MELANDER
Most people aren't too joyous in the morning, but a surefire way to
become more of a grump is by eating yet another bagel or bowl of cornflakes
chez vous. Breakfast on the town has many benefits. It's a relatively
inexpensive way to experience some of the tonier restaurants in Portland,
and professional chefs make even simple items like French toast far
better than you can. Breakfast is the most important sup of the day,
so you might as well treat it accordingly. Go for broke with a $3 cup
of coffee or play it lean with a $2 short stack. We've got you covered
with this introduction to morning dining in each quadrant of the city.
NORTHWEST
Stepping Stone
Stepping Stone guarantees fast service, newsy conversation and no frills.
This is the kind of serious breakfast diner you might find in any small
town across America. The eggs are firm, pancakes are plain and fluffy,
and the price is right. It does make a few concessions to pedigreed
appetites in the form of real maple syrup for cakes and a fresh fruit
bowl with mercifully ripe bananas. Sit at the bar and chat with locals
about the latest political scandal, or nestle into a booth to nurse
your hangover in peace.
2390 NW QUIMBY ST., 222-1132. OPEN DAILY. NO CREDIT CARDS. INEXPENSIVE.
Il Fornaio
Gaze upon the delicate golden frittelle at Il Fornaio and
you'll realize that you've found the perfect pancake. These cakes are
not adorned with fruit or made with cornmeal or buckwheat; they're simple
and thin and served with the usual butter and maple syrup. The French
toast is even better, three thick slices of filone bread dusted with
powdered sugar and accompanied by mascarpone cheese. Fritattas come
stuffed with a variety of vegetables and cheeses, and the seasonal fruit
plate is accompanied by a basket of toasted artisan breads. There's
also poached eggs and grown-up cracked oatmeal with berries and brown
sugar. Everything is so delicious and elegantly prepared, you can forgive
the overzealous waiters.
115 NW 22ND AVE., 248-9400. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. EXPENSIVE.
SOUTHWEST
Cup O' Cheer
Conveniently located across from Central library, Cup O' Cheer enjoys
a regular clientele of downtown workers and weekend wanderers hungry
for scones and caffeine. Besides dense and delicious pastries, Cup O'
Cheer also serves inexpensive sit-down breakfasts. A bowl of deluxe
oatmeal, which comes with raisins, honey, bananas and peanut butter,
is far more lively than the oats your mom used to feed you on winter
mornings. Potato Jones (grilled spuds with onions, garlic, mushrooms,
spinach, tomatoes and jack cheese) and the French toast--a better choice
than the too-thick pancakes--provide a comforting dose of starch. Seven
different scrambles, including the curried Bombay Garden and a tofu
version enhanced by nutritious yeast, make this menu more exotic than
those of comparable cafes.
808 SW 10TH AVE., 243-1461. BREAKFAST MONDAY-SATURDAY. NO CREDIT CARDS.
INEXPENSIVE.
Heathman Restaurant
Hotel breakfasts are typically reserved for out-of-towners, but
morning meals at the Heathman shouldn't be overlooked by locals. Breakfast
at this nationally recognized restaurant isn't cheap (pancakes will
run you about $8), but compared with dinner it's a deal. The distinguished
lemon pancakes come with a light and tart fresh strawberry compote,
nothing like the gooey, chunky concoctions--pie filling on morning duty--you
find elsewhere. The Heathman also scores points for its fresh-squeezed
orange juice and classy smoked-salmon hash.
1001 SW BROADWAY, 241-4100. OPEN DAILY. EXPENSIVE.
SOUTHEAST
Tabor Hill Cafe
When you can't stomach the wait at Cup 'n' Saucer or the Hawthorne Street
Cafe but want something a little more inspired than the basic fare at
Sewickly Addition, visit the underrated Tabor Hill Cafe. It doesn't
have quite the panache of some of its neighbors, but it more than suffices.
Pancakes come in buttermilk, sour cream or buckwheat varieties, and
the forgotten Belgian waffle is also served here. Tasty meat is a defining
characteristic of the Tabor, with links, ham, bacon and polska kielbasa
on the menu. Prices are reasonable--a two-ingredient omelette with home
fries and toast is only $4.75--and breakfast lasts all day.
3766 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 230-1231. OPEN DAILY. INEXPENSIVE.
Compass Cafe
True to its name, Compass Cafe imbues its dishes with flavors from
around the globe, even at brunch. Omelettes are served with subtly sweet
corn pudding and a potpourri of potatoes instead of traditional toast
and home fries. Pancakes come with fresh fruit or chocolate and/or peanut
butter chips, and French toast is stuffed with apricot and currant cream
cheese. There's also a breakfast burrito on the menu, as well as eggs
scrambled with Italian montassio cheese, corn tortilla strips and chorizo.
Be prepared for a big meal with lots of surprising tastes.
4741 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD., 231-4840. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. MODERATE.
NORTHEAST
Chez What
Chez What, with brightly colored walls and a pie case full of oversized
plastic bugs, is the cheeriest locale on the breakfast-eater's list.
The menu is unusual: Grits, chicken-fried steak and calzone replace
standard Portland offerings. Carnivores can order potatoes and eggs
scrambled with pepper bacon or Canadian bacon on a croissant, but there's
also biscuits and gravy for vegans.
2203 NE ALBERTA ST., 281-1717. OPEN DAILY. MODERATE.
Ron Paul Charcuterie
Save Ron Paul for a Monday when you need a back-to-work boost. The
airy, high-ceilinged shop feels like a salon, and its atmosphere is
similarly energizing. An oversized bowl of maple-nut granola, fruit
and yogurt supplies more vitamins than Special K, and pain perdu,
thick New Orleans-style French toast, is an indulgence you can feel
good about. The beverage list far exceeds the food menu, but the coffee
is so good that all the teas and sparkling juices are almost irrelevant.
1441 NE BROADWAY, 284-5347. OPEN DAILY. MODERATE.
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Willamette Week | originally
published October 14,
1998
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