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J - P Jake's Famous Crawfish Jake's is the type of restaurant that immediately comes to mind when out-of-town guests visit, but don't forget this landmark restaurant for everyday dining needs. The ambiance is festive, the decor has remained classic over the last 106 years, and the well-seasoned staff is attentive and relaxed. But the best reason to visit Jake's is the food. Since Jake Freiman served his first crawfish at the Oregon Hotel in 1881, it's only fitting that the restaurant that bears his name continues to serve unique crawfish dishes today. The etouffee, a recipe reputedly finessed by Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme in a local crawfish-cooking competition back in the '80s, explodes on the tongue in a delightful balance of flavor and heat. The Oriental crawfish spicy noodle salad and spicy crawfish cakes with rémoulade are both popular choices for lunch or dinner. But the ever-changing menu offers a mind-boggling choice of fresh seafood prepared in a variety of creative ways. There is something for everyone here, and absolutely no reason to save Jake's for a special occasion. (SW) 401 SW 12th Ave., 226-1419. Lunch and dinner daily. Expensive. Jo Bar & Rotisserie The focus here is robust bistro fare, such as a simple pizza from the wood-burning oven or a salad of baby greens flanked by plump crab-and-shrimp cakes. The kitchen likes big flavors, as evidenced by a recent special of a roasted tuna filet served in a vivid golden tomato sauce. The sweetness of the low-acid tomatoes was balanced by the sharp spike of caper relish, a nice complement to the meaty fish. Beef tenderloin gets an unusual companion in a very spicy ranchero sauce, but the pairing works for both. You suspect that Papa Haydn's owners opened this adjoining offspring because they were tired of all that dessert, but the final course isn't neglected. (JD) 701 NW 23rd Ave., 222-0048. Lunch and dinner daily. Expensive. *Khun Pic's Bahn Thai* The first family of Thai cooking in Portland strikes again. First there was Bangkok Kitchen, owned and operated by chef Srichan Miller, and then Lemongrass, the creation of her daughter, Shelley Siripatrapa. Now another daughter, Mary Ogard, has opened her own place with her husband Jon, further proving that culinary skill runs in the family. Like Lemongrass, the Ogards' restaurant is housed in a renovated Victorian house with a cottage-style garden, but exuberant decoration, embossed ceilings and gold painted moldings lend a baroque touch unique to Khun Pic's. The rotating menus are minimal, with only about a dozen items apiece; the time you save choosing will be well spent enjoying what you've chosen. Tum yum goong (hot and sour soup with prawns) is a classic, and it's as good here as anywhere else in town. A salad of shredded papaya with Thai spices is sweet and refreshing, though you might want to ask for it to come after the entree. Garlic chili sauce--which adorns prawns, chicken or vegetables--is deeply flavored and delicious, and the pad Thai is quite respectable, light and not too moist. A word of caution, however: Spices tend to be on the mild side, so if you want really scorching heat, you might have to beg. (JM) 3429 SE Belmont St., 235-1610. Dinners Wednesday-Monday. No credit cards. Moderate.

Koji Osakaya Koji Osakaya is a large restaurant with distractions galore, including a sushi bar, an exposed grill and two huge TVs tuned to the 24-hour sumo wrestling channel. There's lots going on--and lots of good food, too. The cook-it-yourself sukiyaki is made with tender cuts of thinly sliced ribeye; it's a fabulous meal, and fun to do, but be prepared for the two-order minimum. The enormous combination boxed dinner is a good entree (pun intended) into the world of Japanese food. It comes with samples of California roll (made with real crab), teriyaki chicken skewers, strong miso soup and delicious tempura. With four other pages' worth of menu items, the sushi selections at Koji seem almost parenthetical. But don't be fooled by the back-page status--this is some of the best sushi in Portland, with especially good yellowtail, salmon and eel with cucumber and avocado. Koji also has a second, less spacious location in the heart of downtown at 606 SW Broadway. (FF) 7007 SW Macadam Ave., 293-1066. Lunch and dinner daily. Moderate.

La Catalana La Catalana led the way for Spanish restaurants to emerge as a dining trend in Portland. The lusty flavors of Spain--such as the marriage of anchovy, citrus and olives--make sense to more and more palates. This popularity does, however, mean less groundbreaking and more keeping up with the Joneses for La Catalana. The restaurant deserves at least two visits: one to sample an array of traditionally composed tapas, the other to splurge on entrées slightly reinterpreted for the overseas journey. The tapas menu does not get daring, but even something as basic as grilled bread with tomatoes, garlic, anchovy and olive oil is satisfying. Chilled mussels in their shells, topped with sweet red and yellow peppers marinated in saffron vinaigrette and surrounding a bed of mixed greens, are also quite refreshing. The entrees, while on the pricier side of moderate dining, are generous (i.e. great for splitting after a few tapas) and thoughtfully chosen. Almost every dish--from stuffed pork loin with romesco to grilled trout wrapped with serrano ham and topped with preserved lemons--covers the gamut of tastes: salty, tangy, sweet and sour. (RR) 2821 SE Stark St., 736-3137. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Moderate-Expensive. Laslow's Broadway Bistro Following closely on the heels of Claire and Shawna Archibald, who last year moved Café Azul from the wine country to the Pearl District, another Yamhill County defector has opened up shop in Portland. Eric Laslow was the chef at McMinnville's Third Street Grill before buying what was formerly Elizabeth's on Northeast Broadway, and he and partner Connie De Silva have given the place a facelift and a new direction. The menu is Northwest nouveau, with fresh, mostly local ingredients such as Oregon poussin and cod with wild berries and mushrooms. Laslow is an imaginative chef, and some of the dishes are florid, literally, as in lavender-cured salmon and hibiscus-rubbed duck breast. His presentation is attractive but not obtrusive; rather than overwork the food, he combines flavors and lets them shine through. The wine list and counsel reflect Laslow and De Silva's extensive wine experience, and they have begun to put together some of the most interesting winemaker's menus in the city. (JM) 3135 NE Broadway, 281-8337. Lunch Wednesday-Friday, dinner Wednesday-Sunday, brunch Sunday. Expensive. L'Auberge A recent article in Saveur about Lyon's family-run truck-stop restaurants pinpointed the glaring difference between French and American culinary tastes; where our highway dining tends toward Taco Bell Express, even France's truckers would rather snack on fricassee de grenouilles (yes, that's frogs). Portland's L'Auberge presents a welcome middle ground. The 30-year-old restaurant is divided into a tastefully decorated, quiet country dining room and a more lively (and less expensive) bistro area on the upper level. Executive chef Michael Parmenter tempers the comparably exotic French selections (smoked duck breast and confit leg, for example) with palatable multi-cultural options such as kalamata olive and feta ravioli. L'Auberge mirrors the French dedication to casual yet serious dining with details like unsalted butter for your baguette, exquisite sauces, and the obligatory prix fixe dinner, which recently featured a choice of salmon with pearl pasta ragout or filet mignon along with pâté, soup and dessert for $38. Diehard Americans may choose to visit on Sunday or Monday, when L'Auberge converts to a bistro serving burgers and ribs. (RM) 2601 NW Vaughn St., 223-3302. Dinner daily. Expensive. *Le Bouchon* At last Portland has an authentically French neighborhood bistro. There may be hundreds of such places in Paris, but this is the first one here that will revive memories of what first attracted you to things Gallic. Its Pearl District location, its extremely pleasant service and its solid home cooking doubtless account for the lively buzz that nightly fills the small spot. The starters are mostly classics: onion soup, snails, paté and moules marinières. Each is done nicely, especially the snails, bubbly with garlic butter inflected with just a hint of Roquefort. The entrées are basic: a pasta or two, a daily fish, roast chicken, roast pork with garlic mashed potatoes. The best of the regular lot? The delectable duck breast with a brandy and cream sauce. But be sure to check the specials chalked on a blackboard. It's a pleasure to see sweetbreads lightly sauteed with shallots, and I look forward to veal kidneys on a return. On a recent visit only three desserts appeared, but again they're old standards: crème caramel, tarte tatin and a rich chocolate mousse with butter cream. None of the dishes is spectacular nor the result of high culinary inspiration, but for the basic repertoire of the fare most French people eat on a daily basis, this is your hangout. (RJP) 517 NW 14th Ave., 248-2193. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, lunch Tuesday-Friday. Moderate. Legin Legin is certainly one of the largest restaurants in Portland; its orange pagoda hovers by Southeast 82nd Avenue, drawing diners into its awe-inspiring expanse. Even though on any given weekend there can be as many as four wedding receptions in a day, seating and service are prompt. Legin's menu, just short of 300 items, takes a while to get through. Try to keep your eyes from popping out of your head when you read about all the different ways you can order shark's fin soup, sea cucumber, jellyfish or frog. If you're going to be adventurous here, however, be sure to temper the thrill with old standbys like General Tso's chicken, fat potstickers, or a very silky eggplant with tangy sauce. Large tanks in the restaurant's lobby hold live fish and crustaceans. On the daily specials board you'll find Legin's most appetizing offerings: lobster with ginger and scallions, panfried asparagus with giant scallops, and a variety of seasonal fish steamed and served whole in a light gingery broth. (RR) 8001 SE Division St., 777-2828. Lunch and dinner daily. Inexpensive-Moderate. Lemongrass Shelley Siripatrapa runs the best Thai restaurant in Portland. Not only does she do the cooking, and do it consistently well, but she graciously takes up the rest of the duties when she's short-staffed. One night not long ago, diners arrived to find her waiting tables and bussing, then rushing back to the kitchen to prepare the meals; her energy never flagged, and her cheery demeanor never waned. She revolutionized Thai restaurants when she opened Lemongrass, opting for a short menu devoid of red meat rather than the standard voluminous bills of fare. The simplicity of her approach has provided countless first-time customers a revelatory experience: So this is what it's supposed to taste like. You can't go wrong with anything on the menu; tod mun (fish cakes), poe taek (fisherman's soup) and phad prik gaeng gai (chicken chili paste) are standouts, but all the dishes are worth trying. Unlike many Thai chefs, Siripatrapa spices unabashedly. Heat is rated on a scale of 20, and six enough to make most people cry. (JM) 1705 NE Couch St., 231-5780. Lunch and dinner Thursday-Tuesday. No credit cards. Moderate. Lucy's Table This newcomer to restaurant-dense Northwest Portland stands apart from the crowd with a menu that emphasizes big flavor. Not easily pigeonholed, the offerings combine influences from Asia and Italy to Puget Sound and Punjab. Chili-crusted grilled Gulf shrimp come with a papaya salsa, won ton chips and a salad of cucumber and fennel, while a classically French potato galette shares the plate with curry-cured king salmon. While some so-called fusion forces together flavors that would rather not associate, here the combinations seem to have a mutual admiration. For the less adventurous, traditional choices include an herb-rubbed roasted chicken or grilled tenderloin with a roasted-garlic balsamic glaze. Accompaniments, often just an afterthought, are inspired. Grilled pork comes with a sage-poached apple, pearl onion, applejack butter and a wonderful fig polenta that almost deserves its own place on the menu. (JD) 706 NW 21st Ave., 226-6126. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Expensive.

Moorefield's Margaret Moorefield, or her menu scribe, is given to luxuriant descriptions that would put Proust to shame. Verbs turn into nouns ("red cabbage braise," "honeyed yam mash," "garlicky spinach wilt"), and certain dishes achieve three lines of vertiginous prose. But the elaborately composed, intricately sculpted assemblages on the plates cry out for the describer's art. When did you last have "pan-seared skate cakes," "toasted gnocchi with gacta-olive tapenade" or a "tenderloin of beef 'sandwich' stacked with filo, with dried cherry & fig bigaride, caramelized Fuji apples & sweet potato, hazelnut dumplings, finished with a tawny port reduction 'swirl'"? Reading the menu is not unlike reading Wallace Stevens--an exercise in sheer linguistic hedonism. That said, the cooking at this new, elegant and formal establishment (the staff wears tuxedos) on unlikely Southwest Macadam Avenue is indeed impressive. That cherry and fig bigaride is overly sweet, but it is one of the few lapses in a menu of stunning and startling compositions. Duck is glazed with coffee and infused with scotch bonnet, and a medley of vegetables becomes a "vegetarian paella." Moorefield comes from Florida, and there is, I suppose, a Floridian sense of de trop about her restaurant; if you seek dazzling, over-the-top cooking that makes Couvron seem like cuisine de grandmère, this is your spot. Everything about Moorefield's is remarkably fascinating, theatrical, even operatic. It seemed no surprise that toward the end of an evening, our waitress sang an aria from The Marriage of Figaro to a couple celebrating their wedding anniversary. Like Chef Moorefield at the stove, she did her thing with grand finesse. (RJP) 6401 SW Macadam Ave., 246-6900. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Expensive. Murata There is no closer approximation in Portland of the diminutive restaurants that cater to business clientele in Tokyo or Osaka than Murata. A small sushi bar, tatami rooms and the almost surgical cleanliness of the place make it look as though it has been carved out of the Ginza and inserted into the base of the black glass box at 200 SW Market St. (a building whose aesthetic it complements nicely). The sushi is as fresh and skillfully assembled as it ought to be, and Murata also offers the usual lineup--all expertly prepared--of noodles, donburi and tempura. With 48 hours notice, Murata will also prepare the exquisite kaiseki ryori, the multi-course meal that is a showcase of the flavors and presentation styles of Japanese cuisine. If you still need convincing that this is the real McCoy, ask one of Murata's regular clientele--this is a favorite among Japanese businesspeople. (JM) 200 SW Market St., 227-0080. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday. Moderate-Expensive.

*Paley's Place* The inventive spirit and sure-handed culinary power of Vitaly Paley, the gracious yet informal hostessing of Kimberly Paley and the professional aplomb of its staff make Paley's Place reliably excellent. Everything that emerges from this kitchen has been gathered, raised, conceived and fashioned with imagination and intelligence. Even a simple appetizer like an heirloom-tomato salad carries a cipollini onion and homemade pepper relish that makes it a distinguished dish. Some dishes are pure bistro: Paley's platter of garlicky mussels, hand-cut fries and a mustardy aioli will save you airfare when you suddenly crave Belgium's national dish. For richer fare, squab terrine is a glorious rendition. Each of the seven or eight entrees is distinctive. A roast squab is so tender that the dreaded battle between your knife and the small game bird never happens; summer chanterelles and a heady red wine sauce import dense flavoring to the meat. Fish here is always extraordinarily fresh. Take halibut, which is often so bland that some restaurants marry it with an overwhelming sauce. At Paley's the halibut is deeply flavorful and graced with a mild but expressive confit of fennel, delicate pink peppercorns and a touch of butter infused with grapefruit. My dream Portland dessert is now their peach polenta cake with peach brandy glaze--spongy, loaded with the fruit and floating on a pool of gold that gradually seeps into the cake. Paley's dining room is comfortable in a homey way, and the lively bar area (where one can dine from the same menu) is one of the warmest, coziest yet most sophisticated nooks around. It's a restaurant to return to with alacrity. (RJP) 1204 NW 21st Ave., 243-2403. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, lunch Tuesday-Friday. Expensive. Papa Haydn Just the thought of eating at Papa Haydn can add an inch to one's hips, thanks to its incredible dessert case. Both the Northwest 23rd Avenue and Southeast Milwaukie Avenue locations of this popular cafe are superior spots to ease a sugarhound's cravings with awe-inspiring, mile-high cakes, mousses, tortes and other delicacies. But Papa Haydn also delivers an impressive menu of bistro-type fare. In addition to long-popular dishes such as Thai prawn salad and croque monsieur, the kitchen offers an interesting selection of daily specials. A recent menu listed a few pastas, including a tasty black-pepper ravioli stuffed with smoked salmon and mascarpone cheese in a tomato-caper sauce, as well as a huge Cobb salad and a grilled halibut filet. The service may be a bit spotty at the Westside location--we waited a long half-hour for just a starter plate of bread during a nonbusy lunch--but the Eastside shop is relaxed and quiet. Both cafes offer pleasant outdoor dining, weather permitting. (SW) 701 NW 23rd Ave., 228-7317. 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave., 232-9440. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sunday. Moderate. Paparazzi Pastaficio For those accustomed to pizza with ingredients piled like a slag heap, the Neapolitan plain style of Paparazzi's version will come as a shock, then a very pleasant surprise. It is thin, cracker-crisp, horizontal and fresh as yesterday. The Bosco comes with cross sections of portobellos and flat slices of garlic and gives off the heady aroma of rosemary. Aside from a few salads (the Caesar is disappointing, without much zip), the menu consists of pastas, ravioli, risotto and gnocchi. The flat, wide slurpable noodles called "pappardelle" go wonderfully with sauteed radicchio, onions and pancetta. Risotto dishes are cooked just right, creamy in texture with only a slight bite; the version with pistachios, gorgonzola and prawns is a very tasty blend. Ravioli are plumply filled to the brim: Don't miss the ones with spinach, cheese and a nice mix of herbs. In all, nearly 25 different pasta dishes grace the menu, offering a wide range of tastes and textures. As for desserts, the cannoli are not as delicate as others I've had, but they are authentic and not so common in these parts. Paparazzi is a little cafe with an old ice-cream parlor look, replete with black and white floor, slow-moving fans and photos of Italian film stars; it's a friendly place that offers a casual and satisfying dinner. (RJP) 2015 NE Broadway, 281-7701. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Moderate-Expensive. *Paragon* A first-rate bistro in the Pearl District, Paragon has been frenetic since day one. As much clamor as glamor, with a boisterous bar scene on one side and an all-American dining room on the other, this spot retains its industrial look with warehouse windows and a concrete floor. The well-executed dishes are keyed to diners who don't seek anything too elaborate but demand fresh ingredients prepared to remind them of home cooking. There's a great starter of caramelized onion and wild mushroom polenta, creamy and woodsy, with a scattering of peppery arugula. Prawns crusted with bits of grilled andouille sausage make for a tantalizing appetizer with contrasting textures. Tuna tartare served with wasabi paste and crème fraîche proves that Japanese and French tastes may comfortably co-exist; likewise Appalachian-cum-Roman pecan-laced risotto cakes. Among the entrées, there's a fine pork chop with Bourbon-infused creamed corn (can you get more heartland than that?) and a decent roast chicken with mushroomed bread pudding. Fish at Paragon can be less reliable, so ask questions. Amid the ubiquitous offerings of bread pudding in town, Paragon's pumpkin version with cranberry sauce is a standout. This bustling restaurant is easy to like, and unless you live in a monk's cell, the noise shouldn't be a hindrance. (RJP) 1309 NW Hoyt St., 833-5060. Dinner daily, lunch Monday-Friday. Moderate-Expensive. Pavillion Grill The ambiance of the Greenwood Inn's restaurant is curious: corporate suburbia with a resort twist. The kitschy dining room, replete with Polynesian fountain in the middle, could be located on the outskirts of Houston, Honolulu or Indianapolis. It all seems comfortably boring and predictable--until the food arrives. Former Heathman Hotel chef Kevin Kennedy and his able sous chef, Timothy Casasanta, have turned the place into a haven of fine food and wine. The menu showcases the kitchen's inventiveness. Appetizers have lengthy names and surprising flavors; consider jalapeno smoked cold-water prawns with sweet onions and fall tomatoes, or gathered fall greens with pears, pistachios and citrus vinaigrette. Entrees continue the theme with popular dishes given a creative flair. The sage and fontina cheese-filled roasted pork chop with balsamic pinenut sauce is an emptyman's delight. The chicken, lamb, fish, pasta, duck and beef dishes are all carefully constructed creations designed to excite the weary palate into jubilation. The service is relaxed and friendly, and the wine list soars. Beaverton's suburban blight has become a little easier to swallow. (SW) 10700 SW Allen Blvd., Beaverton, 626-4550. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Moderate-Expensive. Pazzo There's an unspoken travelers' rule that you shouldn't eat at the place where you stay, but you can safely ignore it at the Hotel Vintage Plaza. Pazzo, the hotel restaurant, is among Portland's better Italian eateries, and it has stayed fresh and lively through the years, safely eschewing the corporate blandness that often marks establishments of its kind. A recent turnover has provided Pazzo with an opportunity to refocus and fine-tune: chef David Machado has left for Southpark, and Kenneth Giambalvo, formerly of L.A.'s Remi, has been brought in to turn what has been mostly a northern Italian menu into one representing a broader regional survey. Giambalvo has a way with seafood, as evidenced by his grilled squid appetizer, served with spicy green lentils, and perfectly seared sea scallops. There's plenty of fresh fish among the entrees, though Pazzo wisely kept the simple bistecca alla Fiorentina as well. Desserts are also excellent, and the wine list is one of the best in the city. The atmosphere is bustling and more formal than most Portlanders are used to; spend a few hours here, and you might feel as though you're staying in a hotel somewhere else. (JM) 627 SW Washington St., 228-1515. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Expensive. Pho Van A bit of downtown trendiness has come to 82nd Avenue in the form of the recently relocated Pho Van. The place is now situated about 25 blocks from its former locale, so don't be fooled by the old sign at 707 NE 82nd Ave. Now near the corner of Southeast Division Street, this newly renovated, minimally decorated noodle shop has some of the best inexpensive Vietnamese food in town. The house specialty is pho, noodle soup made with your choice of beef, chicken, duck, pork or crab. Chicken pho is made with chicken stock (beef stock is used exclusively in some other pho restaurants), and all the soups are served with garnishes and hot sauces on the side. The unadorned broth has that palate-awakening sweetness typical of Vietnamese food. Pho Van also serves an array of mouthwatering skewers, such as char-grilled shrimp, pork and chicken, served over lightly flavored rice or vermicelli. (FF) 1919 SE 82nd Ave., 788-5244. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Inexpensive. Plainfield's Mayur Plainfield's Mayur has been quietly dishing out fine Indian food in a Victorian house near Civic Stadium for over 20 years, and its genteel elegance has always set it apart from the rest of Portland's Indian restaurants. Many of the dishes have remained the same since the restaurant opened, and some seem a little tired. The chicken in the makhani murgh can be overcooked in the tandoor, though the tomato-butter sauce redeems it somewhat. The masaladarh bhogar (stewed lamb in spices), however, is succulent, and the royal biryani is a feast for both mouth and eyes--it comes decorated with edible silver leaf. Vegetarian and even vegans will find ample choices here, but there's another group that will find an unexpected friend in Plainfield's: wine lovers. Not only is the regular list a formidable document, but there's also a sherry and madeira list that includes several wines a century old and more; the 1795 Terrantez Madeira will set you back $79 bucks for an ounce, but just think--that's only 39¢ a year. (JM) 852 SW 21st Ave., 223-2995. Dinner daily. Expensive. Portland Steak and Chophouse Riding the wave of resurgent steak houses, this addition to the sumptuously restored Embassy Suites (the old Multnomah Hotel) is just down the street from Ruth's Chris. While PDX Steak can't match the huge chain for the quality of its meat, it does a perfectly respectable job and boasts a broader menu for non-beef addicts. You can enter the restaurant directly or via the Edwardian lobby for a grander promenade. Once settled, you'll experience a somewhat conventional hotel bill of fare, with a not inconsiderable amount of gastronomic nostalgia only moderately modernized. But some of the retro cuisine is worth trying. How often have you sampled sautéed chicken livers as an appetizer? There's good reason to do so, especially with onions, pepper bacon and mushrooms lending a hand to this fine dish. Good crab cakes, chardonnay-sauced wild mushrooms and rare seared ahi are all worth considering. As for main dishes, the steaks are decent, the salt-crusted roast beef better and the veal chop a standout, brimming over with sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes and lemon. Seafood is a much dicier proposition here, with the restaurant's penchant for over-saucing that effectively masks the freshness of the fish or shellfish. Why bread jumbo prawns, stuff them with brie and pour béarnaise sauce over them, except to fit someone's idea of "gourmet" food? You're best off ordering simply prepared dishes and allowing room for the best item on the menu: bing cherry and apricot bread pudding, the stuff of sugar-plum fairy dreams. (RJP) 121 SW 3rd Ave., 223-6200. Lunch and dinner daily. Moderate-Expensive. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Willamette Week | originally published October 14, 1998