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R - Z Red Star Tavern & Roast House The Red Star may share a doorway with Fifth Ave. Suites, but this deceivingly named "Tavern & Roast House" aspires to more than mere hotel dining or neighborhood fare. With tall windows peering out on downtown, ceilings higher than a loft's and a dining room/bar that winds around half a city block, this is something of an urban temple for accessible haute cuisine. Rob Pando has settled into the revolving chef's chair, turning out reliable Northwest fare with an emphasis on spit-roasted meats, fresh seafood (especially shellfish) and tasty flatbread appetizers cooked in a gargantuan oven in the semi-exposed kitchen. There's an above-average wine list that includes a few half-bottle selections, and the zealous wait staff will surely tell you about the wines (and anything else on the menu) in typically animated fashion. Some dishes sound better than they taste--particularly the rather jumbled garden vegetable pot pie with herb sauce--but Pando's mastery of marinades and spit-roasting makes Red Star worthy of a gold star. (RM) 503 SE Alder St., 222-0005. Lunch and dinner daily. Moderate-Expensive. Ringside If the Downtown Ringside's walls could talk, they'd tell stories of high-level political intrigue, fabulous business deals and great loves--all dating back to World War II. The patina on this venerable Portland steakhouse may have deepened some over the years, but the essential male charm of low light, experienced waiters and big beef remains. Enter the doorway of this low-slung brick building where West Burnside Street segues into Uptown and you enter another era--a time devoid, certainly, of Ruth's Chris or the Portland Steak & Chophouse. The onion rings remain the sweetest and best around, their batter crisp and glistening but never greasy (James Beard once proclaimed them "the best I've ever had"). Steaks and chops are cooked the way the Ringside has always done them--seared to order on a flat grill, with but one turn. Among the salads and accompaniments, opt for the traditional Caesar and the asparagus spears. It's the old-fashioned clubby feel, emblazoned in the large, hand-laid fireplace, that makes the Ringside work. There's plenty of good red wine, for example, but no espresso. If you're feeling celebratory and want to wrap yourself in an ancestral cloak of comfort, this is your place. (RHM) 2165 W Burnside St., 223-1513. Dinner daily. Expensive. Ruth's Chris Steak House The first thing you'll notice when you walk into this downtown eatery is that it just doesn't feel like Portland. Diners are dressed up, but not in that black-on-black Northwest 21st Avenue style. The space is oversized, almost cavernous, but it still has a warm, dignified feel from the dark wood decor. And then there's the menu. Although it offers the obligatory chicken and fish, order anything but beef here and you'll feel like a Communist. You'll also be missing out on some damn good steaks. They're cooked to perfection in a 1,800-degree oven and served juicy and tender on a sizzling platter glistening with melted butter. Though it's a chain establishment, Ruth's turns out a product that's well above average. It's a good thing, considering the prices--between $20 and $30 per entree. Side dishes--like creamy, garlicky mashed potatoes and sauteed mushroom caps--are extra, as is salad. The servers are professional and prompt. In all, this is the perfect place for a business deal--provided you've got an expense account. (MO) 309 SW 3rd Ave., 221-4518. Dinner daily. Expensive.

*Saburo's Sushi House* If Murata comes closest to replicating the quiet, efficient restaurant of Japan's business side, Saburo's is a classic nomiya, the equivalent of neighborhood restaurant and tavern all in one. The blond wood, white walls and shoji are all there, but there's a casual bustle and clutter about Saburo's that makes it as appropriate for its Southeast Portland location as Murata is for downtown. The menu is pretty much the same as you'll find in most Japanese restaurants, and it's authentic; crowds of Japanese customers give it their seal of approval. There's one peculiarity about the sushi, which is otherwise quite good: much of it is uncomfortably huge. Sushi should be a one-mouthful affair; it falls apart if you have to take bites. You will see customers gamely filling their mouths, but it's not particularly elegant. Still, there's always a line here that rivals Caffe Mingo's. Be prepared to wait. (JM) 1667 SE Bybee Blvd., 236-4237. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Inexpensive-Moderate. Salvador Molly's Portlanders regularly make the pilgrimage to Hillsdale for Salvador Molly's, mainly because it's easier than wrangling a visa to Cuba or hopping a flight to Jamaica. This quirky, casual space on the corner of a strip mall offers the area's most vibrant Caribbean and Latin cuisine, not to mention mean margaritas. The spicy appetizers are a must-have, especially the onion rings or black-eyed pea fritters. The entrees can present a quandary: You'll find yourself laboring to decide whether to try Molly's famous tamales, sample the Latin-style bento, twirl up some noodles or sink your teeth into the Cuban grilled sandwiches. Almost everything here satisfies, and with the complimentary shelled peanuts and reggae added in, it's a multisensory treat that evokes all the color and heat of an island vacation--as close as you'll get in a suburb of Portland, at least. (RM) 1523 SW Sunset Blvd., 293-1790. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Moderate. Saucebox Cocktail nation meets Pacific Rim in the dark, spare confines of this Zefiro spin-off. Even if you're not into attitude, the food here demands attention. It starts with a tiny bowl of fresh steamed soy beans for munching while you peruse the short menu. Tofu-avoidance is epidemic, but don't skirt the namesake appetizer of silky bean curd topped with fresh ginger, green onion and the salty punch of dried bonito flakes, ridiculously simple and fabulously delicious. The half-dozen entrees follow the same course, taking the elemental flavors of Asian cuisine and using the very best ingredients. From a basic bowl of udon noodles in a dashi broth to spicy Korean-inspired baby-back ribs (served with incendiary house-made kim chee), it's all good. For dessert, the transcendent coconut sorbet is mandatory. (JD) 214 SW Broadway, 241-3393, Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Moderate. Southpark A remodel has transformed the former B. Moloch, one of downtown's prized locations, with a new name and a sporty new decor. Lots of copper, pretty lighting, exposed beams, smart earth tones and a stunning bar with a triptych of imitation '20s-style eating and drinking scenes mark Southpark's handsome look. Specializing in Mediterranean fish and seafood preparations often inflected with Northwest touches, Paul Ornstein's cooking is intelligent and imaginative, and some of the dishes can't be found on other menus in the city. The fish soup or bourride, a saffron and aioli-intensified broth chock full of seafood, is terrific. Don't miss the oven-roasted clams so served, or particularly the monkfish--"poor man's lobster"--in a soupy stew partnered with olives and mussels and inflamed with a fiery Moroccan sauce. For a refreshing starter, I like the ceviche of rock fish and shrimp, as well as the colorful aioli vegetable platter. The best dish of all may be an undercooked, pepper-crusted tuna steak, its consistency resembling that of a fine filet mignon. Some of the desserts are quite satisfying, especially an enormous chocolate truffle infused with grappa and filled with chocolate ice cream coated with chocolate: a cocoa hat trick. One of the real pleasures at Southpark is the way wine is categorized on the list, with such rubrics as "crisp, fresh dry whites," "smooth, medium-bodied whites," "rich full-bodied whites" and "aromatic dry whites." Altogether Southpark is a welcome change from its predecessor. (RJP) 901 S.W. Salmon St., 326-1300. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday. Moderate-Expensive. Swagat Welcome to "welcome"--swagat, in Hindi. One of the most authentic and popular Indian restaurants around, Swagat established its reputation by serving dosas--crepes made from moong bean, urad, cream of wheat and other grains native to southeast India. These sizable pancake-like affairs cantilever over the plate, ballasted by such stuffings as curried potatoes laced with ginger. But don't let these informal and filling concoctions, essentially Madras street food, bar your way from the long list of wonderful options. Lamb pasanda is fragrant with pistachios, and the hellish vindaloos from Goa will keep you on your toes, the heat rising to the top of your crown. Swagat does nobly with its tandoori dishes, all moist and golden-red. The Moghul dishes--elaborate bejeweled biriyani pilafs bearing the stamp of the Persian court aesthetic--are especially good. Choose among shrimp, lamb, chicken or vegetable versions, all of them glistening with saffron and strips of onion. If you want a sampling of Swagat's bounty without a rich and full dinner, by all means treat yourself to a groaning lunchtime buffet for under $7.00. Celebrate India's 50th birthday with a bottle of creamy Kingfisher beer or a modest drink of sweet lassi--iced yogurt with either cumin or rosewater. Gandhi could have happily broken his fasts at Swagat. (RJP) 2074 NW Lovejoy St., 227-4300. 4325 SW 109th Ave., Beaverton, 626-3000. Lunch and dinner daily. Moderate. Sweetwater's Jam House Sweetwater's owners were forward-thinking when they opened up in the old Belmont Dairy two years ago. Now condos are rising as swiftly as August corn, and neighboring Zupan's is pulling in yuppies like nails to a magnet. The fact of the matter is, this place has great eats. The Cuban-style bistec--top round marinated in garlic and sour orange--is incredibly tender and juicy; the red snapper rundown has a light and lovely flavor; and the coconut shrimp is exotic and wonderful. There's also great vegetarian food, such as the garden egg curry, a sweet and hot stew of potatoes, eggplant and raisins. Sweetwater's bar, lorded over by a giant marlin, looks like a Hemingway hangout, and the drinks, like the gut-burning Habanero martini and the potent Winston's rum punch, would also meet with the late macho author's approval. (FF) 3350 SE Morrison St., 233-0333. Dinner daily. Moderate.

*Tapeo* The strengths that made Tapeo WW's 1997-98 restaurant of the year are undiminished. The interior is still coolly elegant, the service is still terrific and owner and chef Ricardo Segura is still charming. Best of all, the menu is still founded on the superior hot and cold tapas--miniatures made of top-quality ingredients--that one can order for a snack or keep on ordering for a meal. Seafood makes up much of the menu, and it's exquisite. Seared sea scallops come with a saffron accent; prawns are sautéed with portobello mushrooms and brandy or olive oil and garlic; and arroz negro, colored with squid ink, is like a little paella. There's plenty else besides: duck confit, braised rabbit, quail, lamb shank with honey and red wine. Dinner here is like a stroll through the kitchens of your favorite restaurants, fork in hand. The exclusively Spanish wine list will have Rioja lovers in heaven--but then, everything about this place is a thrill. (JM) 2764 NW Thurman St., 226-0409. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Moderate-Expensive. Tennessee Red's Barbecue Company As you approach Tennessee Red's and inhale the breeze of meaty smoke that wafts by, you know you're about to have a true barbecue experience. There's nothing fancy about the restaurant or the service, but plenty of outdoor seating and zydeco music provide the perfect ambiance. With an amazing selection of barbecued beef and pork ribs, chicken, sausage and sampler platters, this place is all about meat. The portions on the rebel rib combo are enough to make you weep, with mountains of juicy meat so tender that strips fall from the bones and an array of sauces, each with a unique tangy flavor. A blackened halibut special is also tender and nicely spiced. Side dishes are hit or miss, with unremarkable hush puppies, slightly sweet barbecue beans and flavorful mustard greens, but that's not why you're here. The barbecue will leave you in a state of meat-induced euphoria. (ST) 2133 SE 11th Ave., 231-1710. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Inexpensive-Moderate. Thai Orchid The search for parking is a feat of endurance, but once you make it to your seat at Thai Orchid, you'll be revived by the prompt and cheerful service. The wine and beer selection is small but sufficient, and the rich sweetness of Thai iced coffee is another mood fixer. The po pia tod, a Thai version of spring rolls served with sweet chili sauce, are well spiced and crispy. But the tom yum soup is the real standout. The broth is a balanced blend of spice, tangy lime and seafood flavor, with gargantuan shrimp and chunks of tomato and onion. Also excellent are a red curry (gaeng ped dang), with the exact level of spiciness requested, and a fried catfish (pla duk pad phet). In both dishes, sweet basil contrasts the spiciness, and firm vegetables stand up to the sauce. Among the ingredients, even the seasoned diner may discover a new item--the small green orb called Thai eggplant. (ST) 2231 W Burnside St., 226-4542. Lunch and Dinner daily. Inexpensive-Moderate. Three Doors Down Diners come back to Three Doors Down time and again for delicious, finely tuned dishes such as pan-roasted halibut with yellow corn, chanterelles, thyme and grilled polenta; roasted eggplant ravioli; baked steamer clams in white wine and garlic and seafood fra diavolo (a zesty seafood stew with pasta). For dessert, there's an absolutely dreamy bread pudding so good it'll bring tears to your eyes. The space itself is small, but the owners have transformed it into something simple and elegant; like a great haircut on an average face, style here makes all the difference. This enchanting bistro, whose fare can best be described as Italian, does a brisk business, and it's run with good business sense. Patrons get all sorts of little extras, and the service is extremely personable without being ingratiating. Want a latte? One of the owners will run to the corner and get you one from Starbucks. Now that's class. (FF) 1429 SE 37th Ave., 236-6886. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Expensive. Three Square Grill As of this writing, the last guy who came to Three Square Grill was so eager to eat there that he literally crashed his car through the restaurant's front wall. The food is indeed that good, but leave your car outside; one drive-through customer is enough. Three Square has an electric, no-nonsense menu with a nod to North Carolina. Chef David Barber excels at comfort foods from barbecue to the more exotic cassoulet, and his deft command of spices elevates traditional offerings. Three Square is probably the only place in town--certainly the only place in Hillsdale--where diners can choose among four different types of hash. You can't smoke any of them, but they're all good. Barber's desserts are excellent (don't miss the hazelnut tart) and, at three bucks a pop, almost criminally cheap. Portland needs more restaurants like Three Square, where you get first-class food at economy-class prices. (NJ) 6320 SW Capitol Highway, 244-4467. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday, brunch Sunday. Parking outside only. Moderate. *Toulouse* A stone's throw from Skidmore Fountain and Big Pink, Toulouse has fine dining and a bar with atmosphere to the tenth power. Toulouse prepares a variety of fish and meats on its impressive wood-fired grill, which is fueled by a combination of mesquite, charcoal and the wood du jour (pear, recently). Among the grilled items are spit-roasted curried pork; salmon served on fresh corn, spinach and shiitake mushrooms; and filet mignon accompanied by baby summer squash. Non-grilled items include a great Maine lobster salad with tabbouleh, and delicious sautéed tiger prawns with mixed greens and sweet potato "hay" (fried yam shavings). Bar 71 (named for Toulouse's street number) has its own less expensive menu, which offers interesting wraps and salads. In the dining room you'll probably sit up straight; the cozy bar is the place to kick back and have a nightcap. (FF) 71 SW 2nd Ave., 241-4343. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, lunch Tuesday-Friday. Expensive. Typhoon! Typhoon!'s second location suffered the misfortune of having the wrong address printed in the phone book. Make no mistake: It's in the Imperial/Vintage Plaza hotel block downtown. This location is a stylish, minimalist fusion of celadon walls, upholstered banquettes and an artful scattering of textiles and bamboo punctuated by enormous clay pots. For a deep-fried appetizer, try the clever Bags of Gold, chive-tied wonton sacks containing a booty of finely ground shrimp with a honey-like plum sauce. Of course there's the fresh taste sensation of miang kum: do-it-yourself packets of spinach leaves, peanuts, scallions, ginger, lime, shrimp, coconut and hot peppers. A finger-food main course is the Three-Flavor Fish, a pine cone of halibut firm enough to pluck off pieces and dip them into a pool of spicy sweet and sour sauce. Shanghai Greens are a break from lemon grass and galangal; they're stir-fried with fresh shiitake mushrooms and shrimp in a thin, savory broth. There are many, many other creative specials and standards to choose from, all reflecting owner Bo Kline's culinary flair. Service is not as glossy as the decor--you may never see the same waiter twice--but Kline or her husband will probably stop by your table to say hello. (JTW) 2310 NW Everett St., 243-7557 Imperial Hotel lobby, 400 SW Broadway, 224-8285. Dinner daily, lunch Monday-Friday. Moderate.

Umenoki Umenoki not only outlasted the jinx against a previously troubled restaurant location (remember Singapore's?), but it's continued to serve some of the freshest sushi in town since opening a few years back. Tuna, salmon and crab are offered in a variety of rolls, either plain or augmented with Japanese condiments like piquant soybean paste or a spicy chili sauce. There's much more to the menu than sushi, however. Umenoki excels at other Japanese specialties, from bento to donburi to noodles. The pièce de résistance may be the combination--a juicy New York steak coupled with lightly crisped shrimp tempura. Also of note is the thoughtfully arranged dining room: Bamboo and rice paper screens ensure privacy for each table, making Umenoki a recommended spot for romantic dining, business lunches or any other occasion. (RM) 2330 NW Thurman St., 242-6404. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Moderate. Veritable Quandary The VQ, as regulars call it, might as well be named the Venerable Quandary; the small, old brick building quietly holds it own on the fringe of downtown, with an elegant wood bar that bespeaks its age. It is this bar that presents something of a quandary, in that most Portlanders think of the VQ as a place for drinks rather than as a restaurant, and chef Anne Barnette's work gets overlooked. The menu tends toward the heavy side, as exemplified by the signature dish, a massive osso bucco. The veal shank is braised to falling-off-the-bone tenderness and served with a Parmesan risotto, and it comes on a hubcap-sized plate with a small fork for scooping out the succulent marrow. It's quite well prepared, but it could easily feed two or even three people, especially if they've had appetizers. Roasted sturgeon and grilled salmon are lighter alternatives, but overall the presentation is for hefty appetites. A patio and deck area bordered by garden beds under towering oaks makes the VQ a great spot for lunch during the dry season. (JM) 1220 SW 1st Ave., 227-7342. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday. Moderate-Expensive.

Waterzoies Waterzoies is located in an elegantly restored old home with a beautiful garden, and the walls are hung with paintings that suggest taste and refinement. But Waterzoies is in a slump. The swinging door into the kitchen rubs annoyingly, allowing the noise of silverware being sorted to blend with the endless drone of Muzak. Such lapses in attention to detail cause bread to arrive at the table without butter or olive oil and allow dishes to be garnished with tree-limb sized stalks of rosemary. The restaurant has an imaginative Northwestern/continental menu, and the capability to produce first-class food. Sometimes, though, the lack of focus evident elsewhere shows up in dishes that arrive bland and underspiced. We're confident that the restaurant will return to its previous heights; let's hope it happens soon. (NJ) 2574 NW Thurman St., 225-0641. Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday. Moderate. Wild Abandon Some restaurants in Portland should put "con" before fusion, but this Belmont standout excels at a variety of cuisines without devolving into a culinary version of a greatest-hits medley. Unlike some of its higher-priced brethren on the West Bank, Wild Abandon attracts people who are more interested in what's on the plate than who's sitting at the next table. Meatheads will love the pork tenderloin in ancho-chili glaze; sproutheads will be energized by the udon dream, a tofu and squash-laden dish that makes vegetarians feel welcome. The goat-cheese enchiladas rule, and the delicately spiced steamed mussels show a facility for the basics. Wild Abandon's intimate dining room and attentive staff add to the consistently high standard of cooking. Curtain holders in the shape of extended human arms add to the welcoming atmosphere. The only problem is that some of the appetizers are so good and so large that diners may be too full to do the menu justice. (NJ) 2411 SE Belmont St. 232-4458. Dinner daily, brunch Sunday. Moderate-Expensive. *Wildwood* Chef Cory Schreiber's landmark eatery opened four years ago, and the buzz still hasn't died down. The warm, bright interior is gorgeous, the service is friendly and efficient, and a consistently high level of integrity and imagination pervades the menu. You could keep coming back here for the starters alone: The skillet-roasted mussels with garlic, tomato and saffron are exquisite; and the salad of baby greens and fried oysters, served on an herbed crêpe with aioli and pancetta, practically has a fan club. If one has to cook oysters, this is the way to do it. Entrees are similarly impressive. A simple roasted eggplant with saffron basmati rice is a vegetarian revelation, and the grilled salmon can turn on even the most jaded Northwest palate. Fresh local ingredients are the rule, and the menu consequently changes with the seasons--yet another reason to make regular visits. Wildwood is a terrific place to share with friends, but it's also a great place to dine alone. The wine list has a great selection of half bottles, and if you sit at the counter by the wood oven, you'll be treated to the fragrances of great food all evening long. (JM) 1221 NW 21st Ave., 248-9663. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sunday. Expensive. Winterborne The notion of a seafood dinner calls to mind either a noisy, messy group affair involving plenty of napkins, corn on the cob and special utensils, or a subdued and intimate occasion that demands good wine. Diners can expect the latter, finer version at Winterborne, a snail-sized restaurant offering a compact menu of elegant fish and fruits de mer. Plan on a lengthy, leisurely meal; the friendly French staff encourages lingering even when there's a line for tables. Nothing is rushed at Winterborne. After diners decide between the bouillabaisse, red snapper and sautéed prawns, bread and soup du jour will appear in slow succession. Entrees are followed by a digestion-aiding salad, and if you're not full by then, finish with the Lombard cake (affectionately known as Death by Chocolate) or warm crème caramel. It's better not to ask questions. Trust the waiter's recommendations, and let the meal unfold mysteriously. Let the soup be a surprise (most recently, we got creamy cauliflower), try the catch of the day (especially if it's halibut), and wait to discover the ingredients of the seafood puff pastry after it arrives (it's delicious!). After the pampering at Winterborne, you may never be able to face a lobster bib or crab mallet again. (CM) 3520 NE 42nd Ave., 249-8486. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Moderate-Expensive.

Yen Ha This Vietnamese mainstay isn't high on aesthetics, but it's a great place to hunker down and get comfortable with a pile of food. Don't show up too hungry; you'll wilt at the 162-item menu and lengthy cooking time. Choose a straightforward dish like the stir-fried vegetables and tofu over rice to see why Yen Ha regulars keep coming back: The sweet sauce is addictive. The "butter" fried calamari is actually batter fried--Yen Ha's version of pepper-salted squid. Spicy and crisp outside, the squid is a little rubbery but retains a snack-food munchability. The whole fried grey sole doesn't have the irresistibly sweet crunch of similar dishes elsewhere, but ladle on enough ginger sauce and you'll discover a fine marriage of oil and sugar. The real fun of Yen Ha is the feeling that you've entered another world. When the menu features frogs' legs and goat meat, the owner pressures you to order quickly and the cashier is a school kid standing on a chair to reach the register, you could swear you're not in Portland anymore. (KES) 6820 NE Sandy Blvd., 287-3698. Lunch and dinner daily. Moderate. Zefiro It's hard to believe a restaurant could still be so fresh, vital and indisputably cool after eight years, but Zefiro shows no signs of fading into the pack. Few dining experiences in town will make you feel so ahead of the curve, as if you'd dropped into a newly opened San Francisco or New York venue for a meal. Yet thanks to the staff, the experience is neither forced nor patronizing, allowing a diverse blend of patrons to make of the experience what they will. Expect to find bankers and real-estate barons self-consciously slumming in black T-shirts alongside dramatically less well-heeled hipsters. The kitchen rarely falters, composing intelligent and architectural dishes drawn from cuisines around the world. Most recently the influence has been Mediterranean, the cuisine with which the restaurant began its journey years ago. For a little more informal taste of the experience, try Zefiro's bar, which offers its own menu in addition to a delightful selection of custom-infused vodkas. (MG) 500 NW 21st Ave., 226-3394. Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday. Expensive. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Willamette Week | originally published October 14, 1998