Established, as the menu proudly proclaims, in 1964 by the Thomas family, Country Bill's (4415 SE Woodstock Blvd., 774-4198, countrybills.com) appears to have been left unchanged ever since. It also seems to have retained some of its original customers—on a recent Saturday evening the red-vinyl booths in the bar were filled with white-haired neighbors. Maybe that's why dinner service ends at 9 pm. But don't let youth scare you off—the wood-paneled back room, lit by electric sconces, is too cool to pass up. Just stick to beer and spirits—the cocktails we ordered were so oversugared they made our heads spin. That said, the menu, full of personal endorsements from the staff, is pretty tasty—a huge plate of hand-cut "American fries" (French ones are also on offer) is just $2.95, and goes a long way toward soaking up the simple syrup.