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October 18th, 2006 Kevin Allman | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2006

     
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The modern melding of country Cajun and refined Creole food into what's become known as "Louisiana cuisine" is served up at this sleek Northeast Fremont bistro. N'awlins folk art and George "Blue Dog" Rodrigue prints are the backdrop for some savory offerings from chef-owner Adam Higgs, who understands that Louisiana food isn't all about heat, but strong, well-balanced spices. New Orleans standards are rendered nicely, including a substantial seafood gumbo, catfish (blackened or fried) and Gulf oysters. The trendy-'tini bar menu nods to New Orleans drinks with a Sazerac and that college-kid staple, the hurricane, but misses authenticity: no Pimm's Cup or Ramos gin fizz? A house-infused jalapeño vodka is nicely rough, though better suited for a Bloody Mary than a martini. Desserts (bread pudding, pecan pie, etc.) are tooth-achingly sweet, but it's the more subtle touches that leave an impression: Higgs' rich roux would make a Cajun maw-maw proud, and the hot sauce on the table is the New Orleans favorite Crystal, not its more vinegary relation, Tabasco.

 
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