Between the laid-back expertise of the staff, the upscale Cajun cuisine and the sure hand of a bartender who knows good bourbon, you'd swear you were in the French Quarter. Never mind the blackened-everything craze of the '80s; this is the refined cuisine of the once glorious, now much battered New Orleans. Start with black-as-night gumbo rich with crawdad tails, oysters en brochette-fried oysters with rémoulade or head-on barbecue prawns in Worcestershire-butter sauce so good it requires half a loaf of warm baguette to sop it up. Fish entrees are outstanding, especially the moist drum fish (redfish to us Yankees) dressed with rich hollandaise. How anyone has room for dessert is a mystery, but wicked temptations like the cheesecake-meets-pecan pie and deeply chocolate cake in creamy coconut sauce are so good, you just have to be bad. (IM)
WWeek 2015