5-9:30 pm Monday-Saturday, 4-8 pm Sunday. $$ Moderate.
[NY-NEAPOLITAN PIZZA] East Coasters who pooh-pooh the idea of West Coast pizza are silenced with a trip to this Hawthorne pizzeria—usually because their mouths are full. Who can blame them? Consuming one of the crisp-crusted, foldable slices here is far more enjoyable than mere conversation. Avoid the peak dining hours if you don’t like lines (although the wait will be worth it). Starting with a salad here is a good idea, but be warned: They are huge. The Caesar with anchovies is a great way to wake the taste buds and expand the stomach. Moving on to the pizza proper, the “Margo”rita is a beautiful example of the margherita syle, a simple pie with a tomato base, mozzarella and pecorino, garlic and basil; the crust lent a smokiness with light charring. Those looking for more spice (and meat, for that matter) would be well served by the sausage and pepper pizza, with juicy housemade sausage punctuated by the tangy zing of goat horn peppers. BRIAN PANGANIBAN.
Ideal meal: Sausage and peppers pizza.
Best deal: The house antipasti plate will stuff two diners.
Chef’s choice: “My favorite pizza is the plain tomato pie—dough, sauce and cheese—but if I had to choose toppings with it, it would be sausage with anchovy, which we refer to as the ‘surf and turf.’” (Brian Spangler)