A sure sign a restaurant is more than just good? When it's filled, day in and day out, by 6 pm. Not only does Mingo pack 'em in but there are few culinary spots in Portland that can be more entertaining than the bar at the original, Northwest location. Where else can you sip a Valpolicella Ripasso, twirl linguine alla pangrattato and watch the chefs perform in an open kitchen, flipping tire-sized frying pans over flames that would frighten the Iron Chefs? (MK)