Cali's new management has streamlined the sprawling menu, but the focus remains on bahn mi, the odd and wonderful culinary offspring of the colonial shotgun marriage that was French Indochina. The house special Cali sandwich packs a French roll with pâté, Vietnamese-style pork and pickled veggies for a dirt-cheap $3.25, with a salad thrown in. (Don't worry, there are also plenty of options for those who don't share the Gallic obsession with bird liver.) Cali's Northeast Glisan location is convenient to nothing in particular other than Fred Meyer, but it's worth the trip on its own. (IG)