In the recent past, WW has faulted this elegant eatery for its low-sodium approach to cooking. But that's one of very few quibbles we've had with a kitchen that has consistently produced dishes wildly expressive of the Northwest for the past six years. The dining room is spare but not barren and�like a mood ring�subject to tremendous change depending on the weather outside and the crowd indoors, while the more modestly priced cafe next door bubbles with energy and the same clean, honest approach to food that typifies the fare at the mother ship. A recent visit suggests that even our salt critique may have been heard. For starters, investigate Trio, a composed salad of roasted beets, cumin-spiked Moroccan carrot salad and golden-crisp onion rings. For main courses, Castagna does wonders with salmon and halibut but seems most adept with lamb, like grilled tranches atop a pungent mix of radicchio and white beans. Desserts are consistently good, from house sorbet to wonderful cheeses. (RHM)