Doors will be whisked open by dapper doormen, your eyes will slowly adjust to the moody darkness inside and then the alluring essence of this ritzy steak house will surround you and make the outside world evaporate instantly. Don't expect breathtaking innovation here, just beefy goodness and straightforward special-occasion fare like hefty crab cakes, oysters Rockefeller and full-bodied French onion soup. The Angus dry-aged steaks come in all shapes and sizes—from the eponymous top sirloin served with so-what lobster slices and buttery béarnaise to the brawny 24-ounce New York strip. Whatever the cut, every bite is tender enough to dispatch with a butter knife. Order carefully and you'll get dinner and a show from a tuxedoed waiter who'll prepare boldly seasoned Caesar salads and flaming swords of meat at your table. Just when you think the indulgence is over, you're presented with whiffy Roquefort cheese and a still life of fruit that would make Rembrandt blush. (IM)
WWeek 2015