Skip to main contentThough chefs intone the "local-seasonal" mantra nonstop these days, is there another restaurant in town that can top chef-owner Marco Shaw's impressive commitment? With the exception of things like citrus that just don't grow here, 11 months out of the year all—yes, all—the produce, meat and fish served at Fife comes from sustainable or organic Northwest farms. Still, it's what's on the plate that matters. Since the restaurant opened four years ago, Fife's become the kind of place I love taking out-of-town visitors, who start talking about moving to Portland when they experience the combination of sophisticated comfort food, family-friendly style and generous portions (most main courses are big enough to double as tomorrow's lunch). Shaw's strength is deeply savory dishes like mustard-glazed pork chops with apples, cabbage and thyme. Desserts, once problematic, have improved recently; a buttery peach upside-down cake in late summer signaled more good things to come. (HY)
WWeek 2015