"Portland is basically a lot of good breakfast places where there's a wait to get in," a visiting friend once declared. If that impression carries any weight, Helser's is worth the line. The menu offers a plethora of choices, from the German "Dutch baby" popover pancake ($6.90) to more basic but still mouthwatering pepper bacon ($3.75). Other highlights (everything is a highlight) are the Scotch egg and potato pancakes ($6.95) and whatever the weekly special is. Order until you're full.