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October 18th, 2006 12:00 am Ian Gillingham | Food Reviews & Stories

Restaurant Guide 2006


Portland City Grill, we have two words of advice for you: "stadium seating." Your still surprisingly adventurous take on pan-Asian cuisine—blackened tombo with wasabi-ginger beurre blanc, say, or mahi-mahi with papaya salsa and banana-coconut curry—is worth the 30-floor elevator ride up Big Pink, but once your diners get up there, is anyone thinking about the food? No, they're checking out the sunset on Mount Hood, scanning Mount Adams for volcanic puffs, hauling out the binoculars to see if anyone's breaking into their West Hills homes. So why not work with that? Take out those viewless, barely lit tables in the middle of the dining room, and replace them with rising rows of cushy cinema seats fronted by long, Bagdad Theater-style counters so we can enjoy our madeira-cherry pork chop while watching the city lights twinkle on. Or you can stick with what works—we're just throwing out ideas here. But have your people call our people, OK, babe? (IG)

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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