A recent renovation has nudged the venerable ProRow toward the "clean, well-lighted place" column, and offerings such as a Gorgonzola-laden beet salad ($5.50, $8 topped with jerk chicken) invite a clientele beyond the surrounding warehouses. But the servers are still friendly, the beer list still extensive, and sandwiches such as the pastrami-and-everything Big Mack ($7.25) still gargantuan ("They call 9 inches a medium?" cried one cowed male diner). And come summertime, there are few better back decks in Portland.