Restaurant Guide 2006

Hillsboro isn't exactly known as a fine-dining mecca, but Syun Izakaya rates a drive (or MAX ride) from just about anywhere within its 25-mile radius. Truly superb Japanese fare served by cheerful ladies in a postage-stamp-sized space lined with big sake bottles. J-pop plays overhead; fresh flowers are abundant. My dining companion especially liked the evening's special, a kicky-crunchy stir-fried bitter melon with pork; he also took note of "the loveliest-smelling bathrooms." Other highlights: nasumiso (eggplant with tangy miso sauce), takuso (fresh vinegared cukes with boiled octopus), and a monumental sake selection, of which we especially liked the slightly dry-sweet Utamaro. (SMB)

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