As the adamantly local menu explains in detail, most of the elements in any Three Square meal were grown, raised, caught or roasted within an afternoon's drive of Portland, and were probably baked, cured, smoked or brined on site. Diners get the feeling that if they asked for more background on the pig behind the pork chop (which showed up topped with huckleberries on a recent specials menu), the chef might come out with Wilbur's family tree and a photo album. But Three Square doesn't limit itself to the hazelnut-pear-salmon dishes of standard Northwest cuisine; it takes the local goodies and packages them in favorites from all over—like a Crescent City brunch scramble with sausage and crawfish, must-have sugary beignets with local berry preserves, or a comfy meatloaf. (MS)