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October 19th, 2005 Ian Gillingham | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2005

     
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Chef Bo Kline's Thai mini-empire has six pins in the Portland and Seattle metro maps so far, and it's not hard to tell why. Now that middling Thai restaurants are as commonplace here as that mermaid-fronted java chain, the careful cuisine at Typhoon! reminds diners what those dishes should taste like. Spring rolls (or a special wild-mushoom roll, if you're lucky) are crispy but light, avoiding the oil-soaked carapaces dished out by more indifferent hands; the Drunken Noodles bowl is piquant but retains distinct flavors, rendering the cover-all-sins spicing in other versions unnecessary; and the pad Thai with its just-right saucing should be taken regularly as a corrective to the glop-glop elsewhere. (IG)

 
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