The V.Q. has long been a favorite watering hole of lawyers, city planners and wheeler-dealers. It's the restaurant version of a railroad apartment: a long, slow march through the narrow bar and booth area to the lighter back precincts. Take the stroll to see how much patrons are enjoying themselves on food that's robust, hearty and filling. A great starter that gives you health without refinement is the spinach and roasted wild-mushroom salad, the forest juices bathing the greens with essence of lobster mushrooms and chanterelles. A stunning pizza of figs and prosciutto sports a thin Neapolitan crust, playfully exporting the classic Italian coupling to a new venue. Speaking of classics, ossobuco has starred on the menu for decades, and I never weary of it; it's the perfect version of this great Milanese dish. After a grandly satiating meal, the homemade sorbets seem just the right thing. (RJP)
WWeek 2015